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I made this cupholder from some .060 aluminum and painted it with Hammerite rattlecan. It attaches to a couple of the screws holding the shifter trim. I have full size patterns if anyone is interested.

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I REALLY LIKE THAT!!!!
If mine was a floor shift i would do that but im 3-on-tree.

 

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i'm leaning to this design. It's one made for boats but it'll work i belive.

 

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so what have yall donr on the window seals of your car(s)
mine needs all new seals inside and out.
i know i can get the oem style for about $150 to $200, but it should not cost that much in my eyes.
i fig. theres a guy with a big rool ofthis and just cuts off the correct lengths and charges a big price.
i dont know....... i seen where you can get the pill and stick 3m type..
advice is what i am needing i guess.

 

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There is an older thread on the forum where a guy made a door seal for a 77 LTD because none was available.
He had no choice.
It came out better than I had originally thought.

What have I done?
For a number of vehicles, I have bought the very expensive reproduction rubber. I am not that talented or patient.
Then I treat all rubber and plastic with a conditioner. Knowing that it is very expensive.

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quick question.... what is thesize of dash speaker? Is it a 4"x10" or 5"x7"

 

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over the weekend i fig. i would re-jet the carb a bit bigger. it leans out when given gas to fast.
to save time i fig. i'd pull the top of f the carb wile still on the car and then pull the jet.

pulled the jet out and used a 5/64 bilt (.078") and drill it by hand, not using a drill....

install in reverse

putting all the links and stuff back on.

fired it up and woohoo it works.

 

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so monday me and my son jump in the Falcon to take him to school and me to work and the dang car wont stay running. got to keep my foot on the peddel and every time i let offthe gas it dies. ??????
so after about 2 miles down the road we turn around and take the f150. last night i pull the top off the carb to what it could be..... well i found the problem.. because i did all the fix'n with it still on the car and no being able to see all the best and tring to get it all ligned up when putting the top back on, this happened. I riped the accelerator pump cup when trying to get it back inthe hole. i hope to get a new 1 today to get it fixed this evening.

 

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Thanks for the pictures.
It does say a thousand words. Some not so good.

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put my newer cup holded in and not that im thinking about it i think it should be turned 90 deg.

 

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so no one around here has that accelerator pump cup for sale just by it's self.
i did of course found it on e-bay and the one who has it is herer in arkansas, so i hope it doesn't take to long for it to get here.

 

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An on line source may be the best way to find a cup.
Unless there is a local carb shop that may have misc pieces that you can dig through.

Is that a 1100?

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HOLLEY 1940 1 B.
frm what i understand it was put on just a few 67 falcons. not even enuf to put the carb in the repair manual or to show up when looking for parts via typ. part stors.

 

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so question does anyone know the cfm on the typ 1 barrels carbs used in the falcons?

 

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That Holly carb has a CFM of about 180
It was used a lot by Ford. Well at least in the 70s

CFM Calculator (summitracing.com)

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Mikes carb has been around a long time
Holley 1940, 1-barrel Carburetor Accelerator Pump Parts (carburetor-parts.com)

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Thanks Action, the Man with all the answers to all your tech questions and some answers you dont want to hear.... lol

 

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Over the weekend i bought one on them vacumm gauges to see if it could tell me something about the running issues with the car.
i took some vid to show yall what is going on. so i dont know if its the carb or the valves or what????? there is a exhaust leak at mid point of the exhaust manafold due to a bolt that broke off in that area, so it blew out the gasket there. could that have cause all of this???

running at idle

vacumm gauge at idle

vacumm gauge at higher rpm

from inside the car showing the motor and hood shaking.

 

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Looks like form the vid at idle the vacuum gauge is at 18/19 and is moving around a bit.

You might advance the ignition timing a degree or two. There may be a valve issue but the exhaust leak has to be fixed first to make that call.

Vac Visual: Quick Guide to Vacuum Gauge Readings - OnAllCylinders

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so question, there are 2 ways maybe 3 ways to get to the bolt that broke off at the mid point of the head that hold the exhaust manafold on. the bolt is directly across from the shock tower and there is no way to get a drill in there to drill it out and re tap.
option 1. take the motor mount bolts out, disconnect the shifting linkage, transmission mount and what ever else to tilt the motor towards the drives side to get the room needed.
option 2. take the head off and do the work on a bench
option 3. get a 90 deg drill and do the work without taking anything off. (i would have to buy one, so that wont happen)
so seeing the options written down, taking the head off looks to be the simplest way. i can also take a gander at the valves and other parts to do a good cleaning and or re seating if needed.

 

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Taking the head off also provides the possibility of a better outcome.
The 90 degree drill has a lot of room for whoops and other 4 letter words.
Option one is a lot of work to gain a little access.

Yeah it will be a pain to RnR the head, but access the the trouble spot will be the best of all three. And you can inspect the valves and pistons. Plus you can paint the head and valve cover and make it look really nice once it is back together.

This thread is 100 posts long so I do not remember if the engine has been apart before. Or even if the engine is original.
If it is, you might consider replacing the valve stem seals. They are cheap. It is the labor that wouold make that job expensive. I have one of these cheap valve spring compressors. Can be had for less than $25.

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