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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1969 Ford LTD with a 429 motor non Fe I've done the install on the pertronix 3 module inside the distributor no issues I'm just having conflicting issues trying to install the pertronix 3 ignition module to the coil and I just want to know what the best option is for installing power to pertronics distributor module through the coil do I delete wiring like the resistance wire from the pertronics instructions they say You're supposed to give 12 volts power steady to the module has anyone done this before? if you have what's the best possible way to do this I've heard several stories and I'm kind of confused right now? I was just thinking of running a straight s
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Switched-powered source like from the fuse block on the heater fuse and once that's turned on it's a constant power and that'll power the coil is that advisable or what is the methodology here can someone help thanks.
 

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The stock Ford primary ignition wiring sullies different voltage under different circumstances.
During starter cranking only, the coil gets 12v+ from the "I" terminal of the starter relay
During engine running the coil gets a stepdown voltage between 9 and 5 volts + from the primary circuit via a resistance wire
(see attached)
The attached diagram found on the net shows the arrangement.
The "quick disconnect" and "terminal connector" does not exactly exist in many systems. These are crimped or simiarly attached. And all of that is inside a wrapped wiring harness.

Back to a solution for your question.
The solution you seek is to have 12v+ controlled by the ignition switch.
1) Run a wire from the ignition switch "run" terminal to the coil
2) Get a relay to pick up 12v+ and sent to the coil when activated any voltage at the wire to the coil at the "B" terminal
3) Open up the wiring harness and by pass the resistance wire
Do nothing and run the coil off of lower voltage

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your reply appreciate this Action, when you speak of tapping into a terminal on the ignition run position I would just have to search and destroy on that try to find which wire to be opened up and tapped into & run another wire to a relay and when you say relay what type of relay or power size should I use? "electrical novice here" and then from the relay it goes out to the coil on the plus side right?I should be done at that point I do have one long brown wire and that's attached to the positive side and it goes over to the alternator or maybe down to the starter I'm not sure which wire that is and then another red wire coming from the ignition going to the plus side of the coil maybe you know about those two I would imagine I won't be using the red wire anymore and keeping the brown and then adding the new wire from the relay that you're talking about is that correct hopefully you understand what I'm talking about? Paul
 

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First I need to ask a question - Whay are you adding the Pertronix?

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The reason is for reliability and supposedly it has more power for better combustion better dwell that's what I was sold on but yeah the original points are working fine I just thought this would be a step up in the right direction for economy and reliability starting Etc.
 

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While I am waiting for your reply, some other things I scammed from the net.

Ignition switch connector pin coding. (With a comparison of 69 to 70 which you can disregard the 70)
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The inside of that connector -

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The wiring diagram

Schematic Font Parallel Engineering Technical drawing



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The reason is for reliability and supposedly it has more power for better combustion better dwell that's what I was sold on but yeah the original points are working fine
Lets talk about power -
The stock system in working order can produce about 12 to 18 thousand volts
The Pertronix should be able to produce about 3 times that.
A good working ignition system only needs about 5 to 10 thousand volts

Unless there is a problem like oil getting past the rings or you have built a race engine with very high compression you will never use the full potential of a Pertronix system.

Reliability, this is where Pertronix has it all ove the stock system. Like moving from analog to digital. The Pertronix has NO wear parts with repeatable signal to each spark plug. Which means no changing points & condenser and the possibility of longer spark plug life if used as a daily driver.

If your ride is for a typical hobby car, just connect the Pertronix system with less than 12 volts to the stock wiring. Many times it will still run the engine well. You won;t get 45 thousand volts because the Pertronix did not start with 12 volts. But then again I don;t think you will need that kind of voltage.

My thoughts

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Really so you think I can wire it up with the stock resistor wire in my wiring just add it to the existing wiring at the coil I'm going with a new flamethrower 3 coil too. It should work fine have enough power to do the advanced dual feature? But if you do think I should wire it in straight from the ignition switch to the coil then what fuse rating or amp rating relay should I get for it? Thanks for all your help so far you've been a gem as usual thank you Paul
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as usual! Paul
 

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The "Flame Thrower" coil isn't going to do much more than the stock coil.

Hooking up either coild with the stock wiring has very little risk and effort. It may not work well. If the engine starts and runs, take it out on highway or freeway. If it works there. I would call it good. Again you will not get the 40,000 to 45,000 volts of the Pertronix system. But the stock spark plugs do not need that kind of voltage.

Electricity is an intersting thing. It doesn't care the brand or the sticker on the parts. It works or does not work because of how electricity flow. Spark plug design of the 60s and 70s is such that it does take much for the electrical spark to jump the gap. And the spark will jump that gap with the minimum amount of voltage as possible. If the amount is 10,000 volts, the spark is going across that gap and is not waiting for more voltage. It just goes and lites off the air fuel mixture.

Newer systems the spark plugs got much smaller or narrower because of limited space in the combustion chamber. (Multiple valves, higher compression ratio so smaller chamber & over head cams) Looks like your engine is a SBF. The spark plug is wide. The tips on the spark plug are fat in comparision. And there is more space in that combustion chamber as compared to modern engines. Because of all of those factors a high voltage secondary ignition system isn't really needed.

Again I would hook up the Pertronix to the stock wiring and see if it works. It is a cheap and easy thing to do. If it does not work you can move on to more complex arrangements. For me it would be running a wire from the ignition switch to the coil. Bypassing the resistance wire. Much more effort and it would give the appearence of a stock system.

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All of my older cars have the orignial ignition system. It is a PITA, yeah at times. I had a bad (brand new) ignition condenser in my Mark III. Caused me fits in the diagnosis. However I do not drive these vehicles much. Mostly because I am very slowly restoring. If I drove them more than 7000 miles a year I would likely consider an electronic ignition system.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah this might seem like a dumb question but what kind of relay do I buy to install this into the ignition wire that you're talking about and go straight to the coil I understand the mechanics of it but I just don't understand what amperage relay I need is it just a fusible link or an actual physical pronged relay like adding a whole new updated relay system in can you please explain cuz I'm at the point just going to the parts store and buying a relay or a feasible link or an inline fuse to make this work but I don't know which way to go? If you can answer this last question I appreciate it you've given me so much information but just one more tidbit would be great!
 

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I am guessing in the 4 to 6 amp range.

Connect the relay off of the battery hot term on the starter relay then connect to the coil.
The control circuit of the relay would be controlled by the ignition switch. That wire that goes to the coil now. As long as the control circuit of the relay is good with 5 volts

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah I found it last night and ordered it! Hey thanks so much Action you're right on top of it, isn't that awesome they have a little kit already made up, I'm just going to install it and not worry about it. Comes with the install instructions everything! I was trying to do it on the cheap but something like this I don't think it's a good idea to do that right so do it right the first time. Thank you very much for all your help now I have everything worked out thank you again
Wheel Tire Sky Car Vehicle

and keep on rolling those LTDs right 👍
 

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Good luck on the install and let us know how it works out.

And Happy Thanksgiving to you too!

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi Action I did the install yesterday the car fired right up with no issues!!! That kit was worth the money I wish they would have put more of an emphasis on buying it when you're purchasing the igniter 3 to make it more noteworthy like hey just get this if you don't want any wiring headaches they kind of vaguely say hey you can get a kit, it should just say hey get the kit if you don't want to figure the wiring out. The car seems to have better throttle response and idle I've only taken it on a couple test drives but I can tell its a marked difference already in the way the car was before plus startup seems easier! I noticed putting the patronix 3 unit in my distributor that my vacuum advance canister diaphragm was worn out so I bought a new vacuum advance canister but I don't know how to adjust it because I don't know the original part number for the advanced canister because on the back of the instruction sheet it says you have to match up your vacuum canisters part number to the actual individual model directions like to turn it with an allen head inside the nipple three turns or one and a half or two Etc and I'm not sure which one is for my vehicle you have any help with that Acton? It's okay if you're busy I think I can find it but the car is running great and the other thing is I was missing a c-clip on the advance arm so I need to put that on there still.
 

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Distributor vacuum advance is to improve fuel economy during higher speeds and low loads. (Cruising on a highway/freeway)
For adjustment, just install and drive. You are listening for spark knock or pinging when at steady speeds over 45. Or at a steady speed and going up a very slight upgrade,
If that happens there is too much advance and turning one turn less advanced would be recommended.

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No spark ping and the unit could be advanced a little. The big test would be during full summer heat with AC on if so equipped.

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks I have noticed some noise I thought it was some rust in the exhaust manifolds but I guess that's probably spark pinging so I need to adjust it. So you think one turn to back it off one Turn okay thanks I'll try it.
 

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This is all old school tuning.
Adjust and drive
May be adjust again and drive
May be adjust again and drive
May be adjust again and drive

There is no computer taking signals from sensors and then making adjustments.

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