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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, new here and looking for someone to point me in the right direction after 4 days of endless searching. I'm having *sigh* major ABS issues on my '87 T-Bird to the point where I have no breaks period. The pedals very stiff while having no breaking power. I'm currently looking over my AllData information on this and hopefully will do some PinTesting at some point if I can find a way to purchase a Rotunda Star 007-00017 or SuperStar 007-00019 tester. (Been looking all over the place for the 007-00017)

I'm fairly confident that it's either the M/C or the B/B thats causing this issue but don't have the money to replace the entire ABS M/C or to get it checked out by a qualified technician. Worst case scenario is that I convert it over from ABS to Standard Brakes. I would appreciate it if anyone could shine some light on this topic so I can feel like I can breath again lol. If anyone has any kind of diagnostic suggestions please share them!

- Brett
 

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Check for a vacuum leak in the source to the power brake booster, or the booster itself. Do you have an ABS brake light ON (amber collored light), or a red brake light? Rotundra testor is a testor made for the Ford dealers and available through the OEM tool suppliers like Miller Special Tools, SPX, and a few others. I cannot remember at the moment who made the tools you mentioned. If I remember I'll post it, but I think you can solve your problem without these expensive tools. You need a good source of servicve manuals like a good library or a dealership that will let you look at their old service manuals (if they still have any for your old car). Look at Mitchels, Motors, Chiltons, and any other your local library has and look for the diagnostic tests procedures for your make and model year.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well I've got a pretty large range of reference sources if I needed them, and yes I've got the Amber ABS light not the red brake light. If I cant find the Rotunda tester might try and find the EEC-IV Breakout Kit with the ABS Adapter at a rental price "High Hopes =/" lol. Weathers gonna be semi cold for the rest of the week but this weekend I'm heading over to our Body Shop and somewhere located there according to my father we have another ABS Control Module from the same year and model. I'll switch that out while doing some other testing to see if I can find out anything. The lamp light just stays on so according to All data that's something related to the "A" Diagnostic Tests which is all circuitry issues which require the breakout kit to perform the tests. Might just skip that entirely by replacing the Control Module lol.

I'll be sure to check for any vacuum leaks but don't recall any as the vehicles been sitting and theres no brake fluid on the ground even after a hefty period of stomping on the brake pedal over and over lol.

- Brett
 

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The '87 T bird, is that front or rear wheel drive, and does it have RABS? or antilock on all four?

When the ABS fails, they revert to standard hydrolic brakes. Therefore if you have to stand on the pedal and you have no braking, you have a hydrolic problem.

You don't sound like you know enough about brakes to safely perform the repair, therefore I suggest that you take it to a shop and have it fixed by someone who knows what he is doing, OR
have someone who knows what he is doing stand over your shoulder and teach you how to troubleshoot them, and repair and replace them.
 

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I agree with poppy, the abs system is a dangerous area to work on. Now the control module is in the trunk? That is probably not your problem. Like poppy said and from my experience it is probably the unit. dont look for a vaccum issue, there is no vacuum to the brakes. Now on the good side, you could replace the unit, theyre available from your local parts stores, but are not cheap, about $700 rebuilt. make not effort to repair the unit yourself! From the factory by design these units only last about seven to ten years.you could get one out of a junk yard but there is no guarantee how long it will last. Mine lasted twelve years.
the last option is replace the unit with a tbird without the abs system.
hope this helps
 

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Ther is no vacuum to the hydrolic brake system, but there is vacuum to the power brake booster. A very hard brake pedal with little braking action, as described in the original thread, is indicative of either a failed power brake booster, or a vacuum leak in the vacuum suply to the booster. Granted there are other possible causes, but this one cannot be overlooked and should be ruled out as part of the diagnostic procedure rather than dismissed. Also note that there can be a "hard pedal with no braking action" if the pedal goes to the floor with no braking action if the master cylinder is bad.
 

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not to sound scarcastic

Ther is no vacuum to the hydrolic brake system, but there is vacuum to the power brake booster. A very hard brake pedal with little braking action, as described in the original thread, is indicative of either a failed power brake booster, or a vacuum leak in the vacuum suply to the booster. Granted there are other possible causes, but this one cannot be overlooked and should be ruled out as part of the diagnostic procedure rather than dismissed. Also note that there can be a "hard pedal with no braking action" if the pedal goes to the floor with no braking action if the master cylinder is bad.

there is no vacuum assisted brake booster so there is no vacuum line. I cant speak for all models, however I have had a 88 turbo coupe and I still have an 88 lincoln mk vii. As i have stated, i have replaced the unit in the Lincoln. Still dont believe me?
 

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