Reference: - '88 Escort Pony | FordForumsOnline.com
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Reference: '88 Escort Pony

Discussion in 'Ford Escort' started by logeorge, Mar 7, 2019.

  1. logeorge

    logeorge Member

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    The old Escort suddenly started using oil at a great rate. I was driving and the oil pressure gage reading dropped off to almost nothing , then went back to normal, then varied all over the scale. This is an aftermarket mechanical gage. Checked oil and added three quarts to get to full on the dipstick. Gage then read normal. Two or three weeks later , had too add two more quarts. It never used oil before, doesn't smoke and no oil drips on driveway where I park it. Haven't yet run a compression check. Can't find any leaks. Also tried to find a PCV valve for it and none of the parts chains have one that looks like the original. Original has a rectangular "box" on top of it and an extra hose that goes down toward the front of the car. Maybe what I'm looking at isn't the PCV valve, but it is between the air cleaner and the valve cover. I have two original service manuals for it, but they don't cover emissions parts. I don't know why it should start acting up now, it's only 31 years old.
    redrag likes this.
  2. Iowan

    Iowan Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Only 31 and has stayed on the road 21 years longer than most of them did. :)
    austin86 likes this.
  3. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    Do the compression test. When you remove the spark plugs that may tell a story right there.

    How many miles on that 31 year old Escort?
    How does the back of the car look? Especially by the exhaust?
    Because the oil is going somewhere.

    >>>>>>>>>>>>Action
    austin86 likes this.
  4. Iowan

    Iowan Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    What does the coolant look like?
    They were big on cracking heads.
  5. logeorge

    logeorge Member

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    Update on the Escort. About a week ago I ran a can of CRC valve cleaner through the intake, then put a bottle of Gumout engine flush in the oil, ran it as per instructions. After draining the oil, I put the drain plug back in and poured in a couple quarts of kerosene to flush out any remaining sludge (no, I didn't run the engine with kerosene in it), drained it out, then put in a new filter and fresh oil. It would smoke after start-up for a 1/4 mile or less, then quit. Slowing from highway speed didn't produce any noticeable smoke. Today I checked the compression. It was 160 psi on three cylinders and 150 on #2. I don't think that's the problem. I think the valve seals are in need of replacement. What you think?? Engine has about 135 thousand miles on it. Don't know how durable they are supposed to be. Coolant looks OK, spark plugs are clean.
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2019
  6. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Compression looks good
    Have you pulled the valve cover to see if you have the oil return open
  7. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    I believe that is an interference engine for that year. Changing the timing belt (and water pump) would be prudent every 100,000 miles. Otherwise the 1/6 was an OK engine for what I remember.

    The compression number you posted is good. Looking for no more than a 10% variation.

    The bottom of the engine transaxle is dry?
    How long has it been since the oil was changed the last time?

    >>>>>>>>>>>Action
  8. logeorge

    logeorge Member

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    Dominick 1: I have not done that yet. It sounds like a good idea and will be my next project.

    Action: No significant signs of leakage anywhere, no drips on the driveway. Oil had about 2500 miles on it. For the past several years I've been using Castrol synthetic oil in it and Wix, Microgard(made by Wix), or K&N filters and changing at about 8,000 miles. Some say Castrol causes sludge, others disagree. I dunno. I used to use Valvoline in it. Start using Castrol when I switched to synthetic oil, mainly because O'Rielly's(the only auto parts store in town at the time) had it on sale regularly. Maybe I should have stayed with Valvoline. What you think? I changed the belt last summer because it broke. This is a 1.9L engine and is what the engineers call "free wheeling", that is the pistons won't hit the valves if the belt breaks. I understand that the earlier engines would interfere. My daughter once owned an '82(I think) which some bozo worked on and managed to break some of the rocker arms. This guy was one who could ruin a rusty iron ball with his bare hands. I don't recall his name, which is probably just as well.
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2019
  9. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    Great. yes the 1.9l i an upgrade of the 1.6l. Far better engine IMO!

    I am not married to any oil brand. I don't believe oil brand makes the difference. It is weight and service classification that drive my decisions. In this case oil weight (if changed between brands) can have an impact on oil consumption. Here is a great link regarding passenger car engine oil.
    https://www.api.org/products-and-se...nd-classifications/latest-oil-classifications
    Regarding oil change intervals, I stick with what is listed in the owner's manual. If it is 8000 miles, then I change on or before 8000 miles.

    The oil is going somewhere. If it isn't leaking externally to the engine, there is only one other place the oil can go. If compression is good, oil weight is good and spark plugs are clean that starts to narrow things a lot. Crankcase venting would be a place to look at. I don't think that engine has a traditional PCV.

    >>>>>>>>>Action
  10. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    The crankcase vent system has a hose into the air cleaner with a filter. That filter needs changing. And the PCV is located on the top left side of the engine. See pictures. >>>>>>>>>Action
    1.9 PCV too.jpg 1.9 PCV.jpg
  11. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    Regarding valve stem seals - It would not be unheard of to need to replace those. Especially with 31 years of service. They don't wear a lot. They are made of rubber and it is the heat & age that gets them. I have never replaced VSS on a OHC engine.

    Oil consumption is greatest on deceleration if the stem seals are not sealing. That is the time of greatest vacuum. If you do not see oil smoke during deceleration oil may coat the tail pipe. Under acceleration there would be no oil consumption for this condition.

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
  12. logeorge

    logeorge Member

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    The engine you show is the "High Output" model as used in the GT and the two seater sports model whose name I can't think of. Mine is the standard model with throttle body injection. Anyway the crankcase vent system is the same idea. I switched oil brands about ten years ago and didn't notice any difference in oil consumption at the time. Tail pipe is sooty, but not oily. That's why I thought the injector might be worn out and running rich. A clogged oil return might be it. When it used the 3 quarts, I had been on the Interstate running for about 20 miles at somewhat over the posted limit. Didn't notice any smoke, though.
  13. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    Thanks.
    Escort EXP I believe was the 2 seater. Along with The Mercury Lynx LN7.

    I pulled the pic from the net some where.

    In your first post you stated you could not find the PCV. The hose from the air cleaner to the valve cover will NOT be the one with the valve.

    Oil drain back issues can overwhelm the valve stem seals. Again that would be a high vacuum condition only.

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
  14. logeorge

    logeorge Member

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    That's it, the EXP! I guess the next step is to get a valve cover gasket and check out the drain-back hole or holes for blockage.
  15. logeorge

    logeorge Member

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    No blockage in the drain-back holes! Valve train looks clean. There's a little residue on the inside of the valve cover. Looking at the PCV filter inside the air cleaner housing, I see that it is oily, with some oil in the housing below the PCV filter. As I understand it, the PCV system is supposed to draw clean air from inside the air cleaner housing and vent into the intake system at or near the throttle body. It seems to be working in reverse, drawing oil through the filter into the air cleaner housing. I have two factory manuals on this car, but neither cover the emissions system. I'm going to have to figure the PCV system out. I've been on the internet trying to find some authoritative info on it, but it's so old no one seems to remember much. Some say the PCV vavle is on the bottom of the engine, others say it doesn't have one at all. It looks like I'll have to crawl under the car and try to trace things down.
  16. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    Report back when you do find the entire system.

    And better yet supply pics if possible!! That would be greatly appreciated.

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
  17. logeorge

    logeorge Member

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    I finally did what I should have done all along. I checked the vacuum hose diagram on the fan shroud and after studying it for a while, I was able to locate the PCV valve. The system on this vehicle is different than any I've ever seen, but was used on various Escort-based models in that time frame: Lynx, EXP, etc. The valve's appearance is unlike any other, and it is a different location. On the "adapter" which connects the valve cover hose to the air cleaner is a vacuum hose which goes to the PCV valve behind the throttle body. Opposite it, on the PCV valve another hose goes to the intake manifold below the throttle body. These are both on top the valve. On the bottom, a hose goes to a tee in one of the EGR system hoses. In the middle, between the top and bottom hoses is a diaphragm of some sort that evidently regulates the flow of crankcase fumes to the intake. This valve just hangs on the three hoses behind the throttle body. If you get on ebay and search for " '89 Escort Crankcase Ventilation Valve Assembly" you can see it in all it's glory or whatever. I'd post a picture, but I've never got around to figuring out how. I expect one of my grand-children could teach me in a relatively short time. Great grand kids likely would be even better at it. Anyway, if I draw or blow through the bottom hose there is no resistance, so I suppose the diaphragm is leaking and not working. I guess I'll have to buy one and see if that cures the problem.
  18. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    Is this the picture?

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action s-l500.jpg
  19. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    To add a picture click "upload a file at the bottom of the post.
    Click browse
    Search for your picture
    Click on the picture and then click open

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  20. logeorge

    logeorge Member

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    That's it! I've seen this thing while working on the car, but didn't know what it was and didn't worry much about it as long as it was working. Have one on order. It should be here by the first of next week. Of course, once it is replaced it will likely turn out to be something else causing the problem. My experience with cars is that the cause of the problem is never what I think it is. That may be because I've never really had any auto mechanic training. Machining, but not mechanic. I'm a fair parts replacer, though.

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