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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The vehicle is a 1998 Contour 2.0L dohc. The problem I now have is the AC only kicks on when I run the car like over 35 mph or more. The Max AC doesnt work at all. It doesnt matter wheather I swith from hot to cold or anything else, if the car drops below like 35, it slowly dies out. Sorry for the Newb question, but Thanks in Advance for your replies. Also let me know if you need any other info.
 

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Please explain better what is happening.

What do you mean by kicks on?
Does the blower work at all times that you want it to?
Does the compressor cycle on and off frequently?

When the AC is running is it cold?

What do you mean by it slowly dies out? It gradually gets warmer, or the fan slows and stops.
 

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I suspect the compressor is not engaged at an idle.
If so, then I would investigate the pressures. It may very well be that the radiator fans are not working, allowing the high side pressure to exceed the limit of the HPCO switch. Once the vehicle is moving, the airflow is sufficient to keep the pressures in check, allowing heat transfer, and then your cooling returns. But....it's just a guess. Any chance of some gauge readings?
If one is fortunate, one can borrow gauges from a friend...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I suspect the compressor is not engaged at an idle.
If so, then I would investigate the pressures. It may very well be that the radiator fans are not working, allowing the high side pressure to exceed the limit of the HPCO switch. Once the vehicle is moving, the airflow is sufficient to keep the pressures in check, allowing heat transfer, and then your cooling returns. But....it's just a guess. Any chance of some gauge readings?
If one is fortunate, one can borrow gauges from a friend...
That is correct. I can turn on the ac at idle, but cold air wont blow unless, I get up to a certain speed. I just tried it while the car and radiator were on cold. No go. Do you think a defective radiator fan would be the problem? Unfortunately there are no numerals just the C-H.
TIA.
 

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Usually if the radiator fan is not blowing, the AC clutch will not work (this is a safety control programed into the Powertrain Control Module to prevent excessive high side pressure) ... thus the ac will not work.

Will the AC work at idle when the vehicle is cold (immediately after cranking after the vehicle has set all night)? Does this only happen if hte car is warmedup? If it does, then it has something to do with the high pressure switch or the AC clutch or AC clutch coil getting too hot.

Does the blower turn on? Does this happen when the dial is set to vent? If it does, then the blower fan is not working (bad resister, fan, switch, fuse). IF the blower fan is not working, there will be no air flow across the evaporator to blow cold air.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry it has taken me so long to reply. Between my baby daughter and work its hard to get back on these forums. Anyways, So today when i left this morning for work, it didnt take long for the ac to blow cold air. It does not work at Idle (No blowing) as soon as i get going and reach maybe 40 or so mph it will gradually (slowly) turn on and blow cold air. This morning it was cool enough not to need the ac, but for testing purposes I cycled through (On/Off) when I got on the highway. It worked just fine. It blew cold air without any hesitation. Fast Forward, I am now off of work, so being in Texas and hot as it is down here I turn on the ac. Again, not working or blowing at idle. As soon as I leave and get up to speed it starts to blow and continues to blow until it has reached max ac. I have a 30-40 min drive each way to work, so this was a good time to test what i have been having issues with ac. It ran tip top while driving it at like 60 mph. I had to stop for gas and I made sure that it would be near my house when I got the gas. After I got the gas, i realized i was doing about 50 mph and it was barely blowing any cold air. So, this leads me to believe the heat theory. Is it my fans?
 

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.... Again, it does not blow at idle.
So your saying you have no air flow coming out of the dash unless you are moving? Looking back, .... I think that is what your saying. Sorry, lets back up a bit. :yesnod:

The blower motor is inside the car, behind the glove box (general area) and is controlled by the fan speed switch. If the blower motor is inoperative, then you will have no air movement at any of the modes: Floor, Dash, and Defrost. When the car is moving, you have "induced" air flow due to the speed of the car, and the position of the fresh air door, and since you had mentioned that it was not cooling in "MAX" position, this confirms closure of the Fresh/Recirc door.

So if this car were in front of me, I would take my test light and verify that I have power available to my blower motor. Start by checking fuse F37 in the Central Junction Box. It should be a 30amp fuse. This fuse provides a power path to the Blower Relay, which in turn provides power to the blower motor. On your dash controls, the blower switch controls the grounding potential through a blower resistor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So your saying you have no air flow coming out of the dash unless you are moving? Looking back, .... I think that is what your saying. Sorry, lets back up a bit. :yesnod:

The blower motor is inside the car, behind the glove box (general area) and is controlled by the fan speed switch. If the blower motor is inoperative, then you will have no air movement at any of the modes: Floor, Dash, and Defrost. When the car is moving, you have "induced" air flow due to the speed of the car, and the position of the fresh air door, and since you had mentioned that it was not cooling in "MAX" position, this confirms closure of the Fresh/Recirc door.

So if this car were in front of me, I would take my test light and verify that I have power available to my blower motor. Start by checking fuse F37 in the Central Junction Box. It should be a 30amp fuse. This fuse provides a power path to the Blower Relay, which in turn provides power to the blower motor. On your dash controls, the blower switch controls the grounding potential through a blower resistor.
The fuse checked out fine. I am wondering if the Low Speed engine cooling fan relay is bad. Is this a possibility? If it is possibe how would I go about testing the relay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry, I just noticed in your quote, that I said the MAX air didnt work, It did actually work, when I got up to speed. My mistake.
 

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Do we have airflow coming out of the dash vents? Are you able to increase (and decrease) the air flow by moving the blower switch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
At idle with the AC turned on does the compressor try to kick in off and on rapidly.

No, it Kicks and stays on (when I reach cruising speed) until I stop and get out of the car. If i stop at the store and I am only gone 5 minutes and wont work again until I reach cruising speed.
 

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This may sound stupid and maybe it is.
But I had an airflow problem on my car.
The mechanic reached up under my dash behind the glove box area and pulled out a plastic bag that had fell down behind it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This may sound stupid and maybe it is.
But I had an airflow problem on my car.
The mechanic reached up under my dash behind the glove box area and pulled out a plastic bag that had fell down behind it.
Nothing stupid about that. I will have a look.
 

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No, it Kicks and stays on (when I reach cruising speed) until I stop and get out of the car. If i stop at the store and I am only gone 5 minutes and wont work again until I reach cruising speed.
No, not at idle. I have control when I reach cruising speeds.
If I was testing this car, I would check for power and ground availability at the blower motor. A 12V test light would be my tool of choice. You may also use a voltmeter for testing. I suspect the blower motor has power and ground, but does not turn. If that is the case, you should consider a blower motor replacement. If you wish, you may also locate the blower motor relay and "swap it out" with another relay, for testing purposes.

http://www.fordforumsonline.com/forum/electrical-lighting/128-howto-check-your-fuses.html

http://www.fordforumsonline.com/forum/electrical-lighting/144-howto-check-relay.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Wow, I cant believe I never updated this post. My apologies. The problem was resolved by installing a new blower motor. It was working up until today, but this time it will work at idle the lowest setting and blow the same on 2nd and 3rd setting. Now, if i put it on the 4th setting (Full Blast) it will blow at full blast. Luckily I have a lifetime warranty for the blower, so I went to the autozone where I purchased and they had to special order the part. So I explained to the guy what was happening, and he mentioned something about it being a resister to the blower. I am still gonna replace the blower motor, but is there any truth to what the guy told me? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks
 
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