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98 Taurus Very Long Crank

271 Views 15 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  Action
1998 Ford Taurus LX
Engine 3.0
8th Vin#U
158,800 miles

Taurus takes 15+ minutes of cranking before starting, after starting it has a very rough idle for about 30 seconds, then it clears up and runs fine. Now, if I don’t start it at least once a week it goes back to the 15+ minutes of cranking each time.

So far we have replaced the fuel pump, timing chain and gears, idle air control, crank sensor, also I bought a new coil pack, hooked it up and it made no difference, so I took the coil pack back. I believe the compression on each cylinder was right at 85-90, fuel pressure 55lb.

It has now been sitting for right at two years, I cranked it last summer and got it running and haven’t touched it since. I’m hoping the FORD experts can guide me in the right direction because it was a very reliable car, and out of nowhere it became unreliable.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Welcome to the FFO!

Obtain some starting fluid
Next time the engine is cranks spray in some starting fluid.
If the crank time is still long it is not a fuel related issue. If it does fire up right away it IS a fuel issue.

85 to 90 psi in a compression test is rather low.

Action
Thanks for the welcome Action!

I’ve tried Starting fluid, with no start or change in sound like the engine trying to hit on any cylinder. Also, getting a hot blue spark.
added mileage to post: 158,800
If the starting fluid made no difference, then fuel is not the issue.

Since you have done a compression test. Do the test dry and then wet.
Make sure the battery is fully charged
Remove all spark plugs
Do compression on all cylinder and post that result
Squirt in some oil in each cylinder and repeat the compression test. Post that result

Action
Last time I checked compression I was using my dad‘s older equipment, today I bought a deluxe compression test kit and here are the results.
1=108
2=118
3=118
4=102
5=119
6=107
On cylinder 4+6 the battery was wearing down
That was dry?

If yes redo the test with a squirt of oil in each cylinder

Action
W/Oil
1=120
2=125
3=140
4=115
5=130
6=109
Four and six come out towards the bottom again.
The difference between six and three is over 20%.

I would suggest you have some internal issues with the engine.

When the engine does get started, is the check engine light on?

Action
Check engine light came on around 120 K, do you think it’s the cam, valves, or rings?
Cam and valves not so much. A worn cam would not open the valves as much. However a compression test is based on closed valves.

Pull codes and post

Action
Welcome to the FFO!

Obtain some starting fluid
Next time the engine is cranks spray in some starting fluid.
If the crank time is still long it is not a fuel related issue. If it does fire up right away it IS a fuel issue.

85 to 90 psi in a compression test is rather low.

Action
Well, remember how I told you it had been years since anything had been tested, today I went and bought a fuel pressure kit, I got zero pressure, not even a drop came out when I pushed the valve stem. Dropped the tank with the wire still connected and pulled the fuel pump cap off, Turned the key to the on position, and it sprays fuel straight up. Maybe it’s like a check valve issue.
Or may be it is a restricted fuel filter.

And interesting there was no difference with starting fluid

Action
Or may be it is a restricted fuel filter.

And interesting there was no difference with starting fluid

Action
The gas lines were disconnected and I unscrewed that big ass nut, and lifted the top so I could see the fuel pump, and when I turn the key on fuel sprayed straight up… Instead of coming out of the fuel line on top
Looks like a check ball to me. Just guessing, the check ball is there to bleed down fuel pressure when the pump is turned off.

If you press on the ball does it move?

Action
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
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