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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1997 Ford Escort Sport, automatic with 97,000 miles. My blower is fine, and my thermostat is working, but my compressor is not kicking in at all. Ive got full freon pressure, no fuses are blown, I have power to the accumulator and low pressure switch, but down at the compressor I have none. I am pretty convinced that its an electrical problem between the low pressure switch to the compressor. Before I re-run the wires, I need to know what is in between the low pressure switch & the compressor. I have tried to get ahold of a wiring diagram for my a/c from a few Ford garages but have been unsuccessful. My father is a certified electrician & has his hvac & refrigeration liscenses but is unsure if it is ok to bypass between the low pressure switch & go directly to the compressor. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well...

What are the risks of bypassing my ccrm? If it poses a higher risk, is it worth the time to just replace the a/c relay on the inside & keep the same box? Or is my best bet just to replace the entire box? Keep in mind, I'm a freshman in college & deliver pizzas for now. lol Its a small sedan and air doesn't circulate through as well as it does in an SUV or truck. I'm for sure its the relay though & its exactly where you said it was. RIght on top of the transmission under the air filter. easy access considering how hard it is to get into other parts.
 

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is there any way it's a mechanical problem? like the clutch isn't engaging, because of rust or corrosion? i've had that problem before...
or the magnet s shot?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
...

When I tapped on the box, the compressor kicked in for a moment & my engine stalled. A while back, the light bulbs in my car were too big. The wattage was too high. I was driving in the rain with my lights on and my air conditioner on. Parked my car, about an hour later I got back in and the compressor wouldn't kick in. After checking the power at the low pressure switch and compressor I was pretty sure I shorted out my relay. Until I rip it open, I'm not sure that the relay is bad or if anything melted & shorted out or if my solder needs retouched. Where can I get a new relay?
 

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i still think something seized in there... too much friction...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I found a relay from a different thread, two different people used the same part number from radio shack & both were successful. It's a 7-9VDC/12A SPDT Mini relay. Is this the part I need? Will it withstand the power? Someone also noted that a 12V relay will not fit on the designated spot. The 275-005 from radioshack is also said to have the exact same solder spots as the original.


2000 Ford Escort Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM) was the thread I mentioned above. not enough posts yet to use a web link. sorry. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Like what? Everything ran fine for about 30 seconds when I tapped the box. I figure before I replace the clutch, compressor, & drier and orifice tube and all that stuff I'll give this a shot. Its not the compressors fault that theres no power, something is blocking the path. A bad connection or something.
 

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you have enough posts now...
 

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i was just going by personal experience...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I understand. thanks though. That's what these forums are for anyways. Cars are unpredictable so hearing every possibility & scenario puts somebody one step closer to fixing their problem.
 

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If this worked, then you may find that a "retouch" with a soldering iron, on the relay/PCB junction will prolong the life of your CCRM.
i agree with electro. just check all connections, don't touch it with bare fingers, and don't smoke around it.
 
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