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Discussion Starter #1
i have a 2007 E350 with the 5.4L, and last year I had to add the refrigerant to the system, and that lasted the summer and fall. This year I put about 5 cans in and it was nice and cool for a couple of days, and then it started blowing hot air again. Is there a known area on these vans that are prone to leaks?

Should I start with the schrader valves? IS there a good way to test if those valves are the issue?

Other?

TIA
Jeff
 

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There really isn't a common are of leakage.

Some of the connections are bolted with O rings. Check the bolt to see if loose.
If the system is empty check to see if the Schrader valve is loose.
Or the compressor, I believe the lines connect to a block that bolts to the compressor.
Leak detection is usually with a sniffer or adding a dye. Then waiting for the dye to leak out.

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So I hooked the manifold up to the A/C lines today, and 0 for both low and high pressure. And yes, the valves were open.

So I went ahead and put 2 more cans in and some dye, and I found the leak. The high pressure line along the driver side, and right around the back tire was hissing and glowing green. And I knew there was an issue when the high pressure side only read 25 while filling.

I see that there is a connector a little further up, so I'm hoping I don't have to replace the line all the way to the front. And that I can just replace that portion that has the hole. Am I missing anything with that statement?

And once fixed, do I need to re-add the oil before refrigerant? I saw one video that says I need so much of the PAG-46, then 60 oz of the r134a. Is that correct for a front and rear system?

Besides getting the pump to get everything out of the system, is there something else that I'm missing?

Thanks,
Jeff
 

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After replacing AC parts oil should be added. Just not the full amount. I have seen some where (may be shop manual) to add so much oil depending on what part is replaced. That is because the oil is floating around the system. Replacing part of the system means you are taking some oil with that old part. Three to 5 ounces???

Usually straight run hoses are less money than curved ones. Even if the run is long.

You are working on a 13 year old vehicle. Parts availability may be iffy too. Hose removal and taking to a hose shop would be an option as well.

Depends on your location. (Which is not in your profile)

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Discussion Starter #5
Location is Bloomington, IL.

And the location of the leak is close to the rear tire, where theres a mounting bracket. The screw and nut for the bracket were glowing as well.
 

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This may not be the best place and something like this might doif you need the hose made up/
http://jyotihydraulics.com/

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Thanks for the suggestion. I'm currently trying to get the line off, and it's not going very well. I've added a link with a couple of pictures. One is where the leak is, and you can see the back tire. And one is of the line further up towards the front, and the only one with a connector. But trying to get those bolts separated is a bit rough. Soaked in PB Blaster for a while, and I'm using the 32mm wrench and I believe 28mm wrench. No luck so far,

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1O-D_J9O16cRkRFPkvuNxu8Vb_nEJ5X11?usp=sharing
 

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There is not access to that link

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OK I can see them now. Just can not expand.
Are those metal lines?

It is all connect meaning the front and rear systems are not separated. A leak in one part will cause the entire system to drain out.

IF you were able to seal off the rear completely, no leaking what so ever, the front would continue to work.

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There are AC hoses and high pressure clamps that can be used as well. The specific AC hoses handle the pressure. And the worm clamps look similar to heater hose clamps except they are rated for high pressure as well. It is what aftermarket companies use to add AC to vehicles without AC.

And as a frame of reference, my use of these universal lines and clamps is mixed. Not exactly sure of the actual events and I would say half of the time the joint fails and I have to redo it with new clamps or just have to re-tighten the existing clamp because I did not tighten it enough or it worked loose. And I have broken clamps as well.

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Discussion Starter #12
Now I'm trying to figure out why there are 4 lines? Are 2 supply, and 2 return?

And if that's the case, I would be able to just end the lines, correct?
 
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