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1963 Falcon Futura convertible v8 4 on the floor
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys,
As my GEN light was coming on at idle, I thought generator is bad; bought a recond from Eckler/MAC, problem remains. Bought a new voltage regulator and, just to be sure, the cross over wiring between generator and the regulator. Battery is less than 6 month old.
Now I'm struggling to set the damned regulator properly. I followed the book to set the voltage by bending up the spring to decrease the voltage which was more than 16V. At first it worked, voltage remained around 13V but after a while when I rev my motor up, the gen light comes on! So I bent carefully the spring down just a bit and again 16-17V! What is strange, is that my cut out relay opens and closes constantly 2-3 times per seconds! Shouldn't stays closed with motor running and open when not running?
What do I miss?
Frankly, I'm very tempted to switch to an alternator like this one:Powermaster Alternator 82101-2; PowerGEN 90 Amp Black for Ford | eBay
It's not cheap but if I can get rid of this voltage regulator, I'll pull the trigger...
Does one of you have done it? Any feedback greatly appreciated.
Alternatively, is it possible to put a solid state voltage regulator if such a thing is on the market? Just to keep the generator and save $...
Any help welcomed!
Dan
 

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are you sure your idle speed was set correctly in the beginning? was gen light bright or just dimm/flickering. the latter is normal. this is why cops and taxis got alternators. they tend to idle alot
 

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I was just down that road. Pulled generator and it checked out just fine. I replaced the voltage regulator and the light still came on. Bought a new battery and that was it. Light went out !!
It still flickers now and then when its idling in the yard but at least I'm confident its nothing to worry about. I also made sure all my wires to generator and voltage regulator had new connections. Some were barely holding by
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a couple of threads. My generator is probably 50+ years old and from what I've been told they're better that an alternator that you may have to replace every now & then...
 

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For older cars with few accessories, a generator is great!

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This seems true since this project doesn't even have a radio yet...
Compression and leak down drop test tomorrow since she has little power. Ya..its a 200 and shouldn't but not this little. I may end up pulling the head for starters and having it rebuilt and see where that leads me.
 

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That is a good six!
If treated well it will last a very long time

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1963 Falcon Futura convertible v8 4 on the floor
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
are you sure your idle speed was set correctly in the beginning? was gen light bright or just dimm/flickering. the latter is normal. this is why cops and taxis got alternators. they tend to idle alot
Idle at 750RPM, light was dimm.
My concern now is having 15-17V constantly; the battery won't like it!
And if I set the voltage regulator to get less volts, then the generator light comes on above 2000 RPM.
 

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I'm about to put a DUI distributor in mine. You can purchase a small module for it (250 bucks) that will give you a constant 18 volts. Not sure how that plays in the battery scheme of things but not sure extra volts in your regard would do any damage....but I could be wrong...
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Voltage to the battery in excess of 14.5 volts will boil the water out and damage a wet cell battery.

The voltage from the charging system should be between 13.5 and 14.5 volts

Since a battery cell is 2.1 volts and there are 6 of them, a battery could test with 12.6 volts. At least in theory.
The charging system needs to put out greater voltage than the battery to put current into the battery.
But not too much voltage that damages the battery

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My not help your problem
But have you tried putting a smaller pulley on it
letting it turn faster
 

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This seems true since this project doesn't even have a radio yet...
Compression and leak down drop test tomorrow since she has little power. Ya..its a 200 and shouldn't but not this little. I may end up pulling the head for starters and having it rebuilt and see where that leads me.
Voltage to the battery in excess of 14.5 volts will boil the water out and damage a wet cell battery.

The voltage from the charging system should be between 13.5 and 14.5 volts

Since a battery cell is 2.1 volts and there are 6 of them, a battery could test with 12.6 volts. At least in theory.
The charging system needs to put out greater voltage than the battery to put current into the battery.
But not too much voltage that damages the battery

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I guess that's true. The item i was speaking of sends 18 volts directly to the ignition and not to the battery. Not sure needing a 250 dollar module is necessary. You would think DUI would have incorporated that directly into the distributor if you really needed that much boost into your ignition system.
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OK, And you would need a coil that could handle that kind of voltage. Stock coils can not and would burn out.

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OK, And you would need a coil that could handle that kind of voltage. Stock coils can not and would burn out.

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Yes I totally agree. DUI distributors incorporate the coil within the cap eliminating the "beer can" coil thats usually strapped to the engine block. Looking forward to installing this in my 200 inline six to see if there's any improvement once I figure out if there's any compression loss in my intake or exhaust valves along with a compression test. I have a a feeling that because of the lack of lead in gasoline over the years the valves have been corroded. I'll need steel valve seats and proper lapping of new valves to get this to open and close correctly. Im wondering if I should go ahead and install a new 112° cam, new double roller timing change and go ahead and replace the water pump while I'm there. At this point would just pulling the engine be the right thing to do. Of course I would have to re-index the the timing with the new distributor and cam. Not to mention the 50+ year old harmonic balancer that'll probably need replacing.
I guess that's why I continue to call it a "project car".
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The data from those systems does a good job of describing their strengths
HIGH engine RPM operation.

Are you racing your six?

Because there is not much point in an ignition system that has the potential output of 50,000 volts when the need is a quarter to a third of that.

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unless you plan to raise the compression significantly,or plan alot of high rpm use, the ignition upgrade you show is a waste of money. the spark at the plugs will only be what is required by conditions.
 

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The data from those systems does a good job of describing their strengths
HIGH engine RPM operation.

Are you racing your six?

Because there is not much point in an ignition system that has the potential output of 50,000 volts when the need is a quarter to a third of that.

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No, its not for racing. I'd like this 200 inline six to be bulletproof and be able to start and run like it was new. I want it to be dependable and not worry if I'm 50 miles away whether it will restart after a long cruise somewhere. I guess the only way to accomplish that is with an engine refresh. Pull it, throw it on an engine stand and go through the whole thing. The nice thing about the 200 is it looks so straightforward that even a shade tree player like me can, with a little patience and strategy accomplish this. You can almost gut this whole car with about 6 wrenches...none in mm...lol
It would be nice to have this up to or close to 200 hp. And the only way to accomplish this would be strip and and start over. Pistons, cam, rockers, higher compression (10:1) ect... the DUI distributor is obviously just an added plus. Not sure i want to spend 800 bucks on a sniper efi system but it certainly would eliminate the cold starts, dead spots, vapor locks ect. Plus the added expenses of an engine hoist & stand....obviously the list goes on and on. But getting back to my original point....I'd just like it to turn over and run well all day without any fear or anxiety of limping home or worse case....towed..
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unless you plan to raise the compression significantly,or plan alot of high rpm use, the ignition upgrade you show is a waste of money. the spark at the plugs will only be what is required by conditions.
That is true. I do plan on pulling the head since I believe the exhaust pistons are probably corroded and never been done in the 50+ years. Plus the new head gaskets are thicker so ill have to take some off the head to bring up some thr compression. If I pull the motor ill also have to check deck height at tdc to see if more compression could be added there. Apparently no more than .019 can the piston be above the deck.
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