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The 50,000 volt secondary ignition system will do two things.
It will have looks
And will lighten your wallet.

The only performance benefit it will have is if your engine is burning lots of oil or the air fuel ratio is way rich.
Maintenance is the cure for both.
Replace oil, air and fuel filters frequently and that will a very good solution.
Make sure the battery and starter cables are sized well.

The stock ignition system maybe has a top end of 12 to 15 thousand volts
A DuraSpark system (Ford Motor Company's system that used a distributor) generated 20,000 to about 22,000 volts.

The stock engine needs about 5 to 7 thousand when up to operating temp
May be 9 to 10 thousand or more on a cold start with ambient temps near zero degrees f.

Looks like you have 8mm spark plug cables now.

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I do plan on pulling the head since I believe the exhaust pistons are probably corroded and never been done in the 50+ years. Plus the new head gaskets are thicker so ill have to take some off the head to bring up some the compression. If I pull the motor ill also have to check deck height at tdc to see if more compression could be added there. Apparently no more than .019 can the piston be above the deck.
Before doing that, do a compression test wet and dry.
It will tell you about the condition of the engine with out the surgery.

And you can tell a lot with a vacuum test as well.

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The 50,000 volt secondary ignition system will do two things.
It will have looks
And will lighten your wallet.

The only performance benefit it will have is if your engine is burning lots of oil or the air fuel ratio is way rich.
Maintenance is the cure for both.
Replace oil, air and fuel filters frequently and that will a very good solution.
Make sure the battery and starter cables are sized well.

The stock ignition system maybe has a top end of 12 to 15 thousand volts
A DuraSpark system (Ford Motor Company's system that used a distributor) generated 20,000 to about 22,000 volts.

The stock engine needs about 5 to 7 thousand when up to operating temp
May be 9 to 10 thousand or more on a cold start with ambient temps near zero degrees f.

Looks like you have 8mm spark plug cables now.

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Yes...they are 8 mm wires, new plugs, cap, oil & filter.
From everything I've read on performance articles it says if you're having trouble with hard starts, idle and the whole carburetor issues to "do yourself a favor and start with a new distributor. Most problems start there...not with the carb. I don't know if thats true or not. Im sure my Autolite single barel is toast and needs a rebuild. Yes..the DUI was expensive and I'm hoping I get my monies worth out of it. From what I've read I should probly find a 250 cylinder head for the 200 which will give me larger intake/ exhaust valves and a rebuild will give me better compression along with a larger Log to run a better carb through. Any truth to that? I don't know but I'm just going by what I've read and seen from posts/blogs and videos. Just trying to weigh all my options before I have a 200 cylinder head rebuilt and then find out i would have come out as a better option to go with the 250 head instead. Always welcome to your input.
48603
 

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Yes...they are 8 mm wires, new plugs, cap, oil & filter.
From everything I've read on performance articles it says if you're having trouble with hard starts, idle and the whole carburetor issues to "do yourself a favor and start with a new distributor. Most problems start there...not with the carb. I don't know if thats true or not. Im sure my Autolite single barel is toast and needs a rebuild. Yes..the DUI was expensive and I'm hoping I get my monies worth out of it. From what I've read I should probly find a 250 cylinder head for the 200 which will give me larger intake/ exhaust valves and a rebuild will give me better compression along with a larger Log to run a better carb through. Any truth to that? I don't know but I'm just going by what I've read and seen from posts/blogs and videos. Just trying to weigh all my options before I have a 200 cylinder head rebuilt and then find out i would have come out as a better option to go with the 250 head instead. Always welcome to your input. View attachment 48603
You know what grinds my gears ?? The fact that everything i want to purchase for this rebuild is
"OUT OF STOCK" !! Sure a cam..no problem..but all the other internals or externals they are out of. Aluminum cylinder head...nope..can't buy that...auusie style manifold...nope...out of stock. Bearings, rings, pistons, Rocker arms..ect..the list goes on...it's getting pretty hard to find these parts as I've looked at Summit, Jegs, the new owner of Vintage inline six...you name it. If there's anyone out here on this forum who knows where to hunt down these parts I'd really appreciate the input. I figure this build will be somewhere in the 3 grand neighborhood for a budget correct build.
 

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1963 Falcon Futura convertible v8 4 on the floor
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I ended up putting my old voltage reg back in place; the new one was not possible to adjust and delivered way to much 17-18V. Yesterday at the end of my 30min drive, the battery was at 13,2V!
At least the old one doesn't climb above 12,9V; may not charge properly but will not boil my battery.
I will probably end up buying the alternator I mentionned earlier: same look as a generator, simplified wiring and a built in regulator.
 

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It's been a long time since I messed with a generator/regulator set up but I seem to remember you needed to polarize a new regulator before it would work properly. No one mentioned that in the above thread. Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't polarization still needed? Also I've never heard of bending springs to 'set' a new regulator. Maybe different today but we never touched a new regulator to set the voltage back in the 50's and 60's.
Just my very oxidized 2 cents worth.
Ray
 

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1963 Falcon Futura convertible v8 4 on the floor
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
It's been a long time since I messed with a generator/regulator set up but I seem to remember you needed to polarize a new regulator before it would work properly. No one mentioned that in the above thread. Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't polarization still needed? Also I've never heard of bending springs to 'set' a new regulator. Maybe different today but we never touched a new regulator to set the voltage back in the 50's and 60's.
Just my very oxidized 2 cents worth.
Ray
Thank you Ray. Polarizing or not is a big discussion in other thread. As I'm not a specialist, I did it, takes 3 seconds. If it helps I don't know.
According the Ford shop manual, you have to adjust a new regulator. As the one in the manual is from an old type, the procedure to do it not applicable to the type on the market today. But still, they don't come adjusted. If I'm correct, less tension in the spring means less voltage. Which I did on the old one and got better results as with the new one.
Back to square one...
 

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It's been a long time since I messed with a generator/regulator set up but I seem to remember you needed to polarize a new regulator before it would work properly. No one mentioned that in the above thread. Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't polarization still needed? Also I've never heard of bending springs to 'set' a new regulator. Maybe different today but we never touched a new regulator to set the voltage back in the 50's and 60's.
Just my very oxidized 2 cents worth.
Ray
you cannot polarize a voltage regulator. it has no field coils to polarize
Sorry, my mistake. You polarize the generator AT the regulator.
Ray
 
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