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Discussion Starter #1
I have and 89 eddie bauier and when it shifts into 3rd gear it looses all power. 1st and 2nd seem to ok but when it hits 3rd rpms drop and it slowy crawls its way to speed. Its not so bad when tranny is cold, the warmer it gets the worse the problem. Any ideas on what it could be? Not sure if it is the pump or the seals.

ok.. new situation.. I came across a trans and transfer for 2 bills, couldnt pass it up. I pulled them from an 89 bronc this past weekend. as far as the troubles with the one currently giving me problems, i am gonna hope it last me till i get the other one rebuilt.
So im looking for suggestions on the best way, or the best combination of kits to put together for an everyday driver, with a good response.
Should i go stock, hi/per? hi or low stall converter?, put in a valve body kit?, etc...
plannin on ordering parts this weekend so any help would be nice.
thanks fella's.
 

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wait, is it an electronic transfer case? that could be your problem right there
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no, im not messing with the transfer case, the one currently on there was rebuilt by a pro its holding up fine. the transfer i just got is goin on reserve.
 

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ok. just making sure, because it may for some odd reason just want to kick into 4-low. like a comp problem, but if it's manual, then that wouldn't be the case at all. i'm more of a pre AOD trans guy... so i wouldn't be much help here.
one more question, what engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
its got the 302 5.0. the transfer is electric switch (on the fly) and in order for it to go in 4low i have to put it in N and press a button.
 

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like i said, someone else may be more qualified to help you over me...
good luck
 

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hey. someone's gotta help this guy out, i'm a little out of my league on this one
 

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if it were me, i'd go with a stock rebuild. by the way was the filter replaced just before you started having the problem?
 

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SouthernBronc89,

With an AOD I would go stock performance kit, no valve body kit, as the AOD is one of the smoothest shifting transmissions. A shift kit is not really required, more for drag racing, unless that’s you daily drive…. :rolleyes: As for the high low stall converter, if it’s just a daily driver, a rebuilt TC would work. And for best results when you finish use the Mercon 5 Ford Trans fluid.

As for the current problem, sounds like it’s slipping, high reverse clutch is probably burnt out and overdrive band as well. Try a new governor and counter weight with your rebuild to get your shift’s crisp. And proper setting of TV (throttle valve) cable is very critical on the AOD, come to think of it, you might want to try that before you pull it to rebuild it. If you try this, I recommend you mark it’s position before adjusting it, incase you want to set it back to original position.


THROTTLE VALVE CABLE ADJUSTMENT

AOD Transmission With Fuel Injection


ADJUSTMENT WITH ENGINE OFF

Set the parking brake and put the selector lever in Neutral.

  1. Remove the protective cover from the cable.
  2. Make sure that the throttle lever is at the idle stop. If it isn't, check for binding or interference. NEVER ATTEMPT TO ADJUST THE IDLE STOP!
  3. Make sure that the cable is free of sharp bends or is not rubbing on anything throughout its entire length.
  4. Lubricate the TV lever ball stud with chassis lube.
  5. Unlock the locking tab at the throttle body by prying with a small screwdriver.
  6. Install a spring on the TV control lever, to hold it in the rearmost travel position. The spring must exert at least 10 lbs. of force on the lever.
  7. Rotate the transmission outer TV lever 10–30°and slowly allow it to return.
  8. Push down on the locking tab until flush.
  9. Remove the retaining spring from the lever.
Hope this helps.
 

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Usually a bad transmission the RPM's will be higher cause of the slipping, I never heard of the opposite.
You are correct Mark V that is my mistake.

I apologize for that, in my enthusiasm to help SouthernBronc89 with his transmission question, I went for help. I obviously should not have. I, alone, have made this error in my hurried translation of the problem and the solution, I misunderstood the information given to me.

I apologize to everyone here, especially SouthernBronc89, and in future I should stick with what I do know…..
 

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i was asking about the filter change, because if you over-torque the filter down, it bends a tab that controls 3rd, and 4th gears. I've talked to quite a few guys on grandmarq.net that have had that problem. it's the same as what you're going through bronc. just because some retard didn't realize there was a torque spec in inch/pounds for it, and instead they just snugged it...
 

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If my feeble old mind serves me,i seem to remember the case distorting at the worm holes from overheating.When this happens fluid is applied to but leaks by,which does not allow full engagement.So load is there but output is slow to follow.Bottom line case is junk.:cryin:
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
luckily i got a new case... well new to me anyway. thanks for all the help.
:idea:i believe the way im goin to go is stock rebuild, w/slight mods. a 2" od band, type "A" servo, and a valve body correction kit, NOT a recalibration kit. let me know whatcha think...
___________
Just tryin to live a lil and not get nagged to death :cool:
 

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sounds good to me!:thumbsup:
 
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