NOTE: Adding to the excellent advice above; brake fluid is hydroscopic (or hygroscopic depending on what organic chemistry book you read).. That simply means that it absorbs moisture. It only takes 4% moisture to render brake fluid useless. ALWAYS use fresh brake fluid. If your brake fluid has been opened and has been sitting on a shelf for 6 months or more throw it away. Buy fresh fluid and use what you buy. There are several brands that make "LMA", that is low moisture activity fluid, e.g. Castrol GT LMA, ATE and Valvoline also make an LMA fluid. These LMA brake fluid are oftem DOT 4 fluid, that is they are higher heat range fluids than DOT 3 fluid. Stay away from DOT 5 fluids (silicone) unless that is what your brake system was specifically designed for. Lastly, bleed the brakes in the proper sequence which is left rear, right front, right rear, left front, for most Ford products (if not all) for about 30 years now. The duel safety master cylinder is split one rear brake and one opposite front brake per each section of the master cylinder. As stated above if the master cylinder is pumped dry you will pump air into the ABS and then the ABS has to be "cycled", that is electronically set into the proper position internally, in order to be bled.
Bleeding the brake cylinders and lines generally takes two people unless you own some fancy (expensive) equipment. One person puts pressure on the brake pedal while the other opens the bleeder. The pedel should go to the floor and be held there until the bleeder is closed so that no air is sucked back into the system. Do this in the proper sequence with fresh fluid until the system is flushed with fresh fluid and the pedel is firm. Cheers