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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Y'all

I had an exhaust leak on my 170 manifold at #1 cylinder and was removing the exhaust manifold (after soaking the bolts with PB Blaster oil) and broke off 5 top bolts while removing it. I knew I would probably break the 2 on the end where the threads were exposed to rust, but was surprised to break the other 3 (long bolts through the thick section under the carb). Anyhow, the head is off and in the machine shop to remove the bolts and repair threads. The original exhast manifold had a crack in the bolt flange so and showed to be an old break so that is where the leak was. I got a manifold at a junkyard and am cleaning it up to put on when I get the head back on and wondered what grade replacement bolts to buy and what torque (ft-lbs) and sequence to torque them? I presume to start in the center and work my way outward in steps? I called the Ford dealer and they said they dont' have records for cars that old anymore . Thanks.

Jim
Harriman, TN.
 

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Not many have specs for that. Alldata doesn't go that far back either. Grade 5 bolts should be ok and I think I would go with 30 - 40 for torque and re do it after a few heat cool cycles. Check with the machine shop you have the head at. They may have some old specs still.
 

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Found this on the ebsco host reference site. I would use stainless bolts/nuts with a good coating of anti seize.

Position the exhaust manifold on the cylinder head and install the attaching bolts and tab washers. Working from the center to the ends, tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). Lock the bolts by bending one tab of the washer over a flat on the bolt.
 

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Hey Y'all

I had an exhaust leak on my 170 manifold at #1 cylinder and was removing the exhaust manifold (after soaking the bolts with PB Blaster oil) and broke off 5 top bolts while removing it. I knew I would probably break the 2 on the end where the threads were exposed to rust, but was surprised to break the other 3 (long bolts through the thick section under the carb). Anyhow, the head is off and in the machine shop to remove the bolts and repair threads. The original exhast manifold had a crack in the bolt flange so and showed to be an old break so that is where the leak was. I got a manifold at a junkyard and am cleaning it up to put on when I get the head back on and wondered what grade replacement bolts to buy and what torque (ft-lbs) and sequence to torque them? I presume to start in the center and work my way outward in steps? I called the Ford dealer and they said they dont' have records for cars that old anymore . Thanks.

Jim
Harriman, TN.
i had the exact same problem not that long ago! except i only broke 2 bolts. i had my manifold welded though-- anyways... ya, from the center out... i gave mine german torque "gut-en-tyte" with stainless hardware.

pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Learned the hard way....

Not many have specs for that. Alldata doesn't go that far back either. Grade 5 bolts should be ok and I think I would go with 30 - 40 for torque and re do it after a few heat cool cycles. Check with the machine shop you have the head at. They may have some old specs still.
I checked at the Ford Dealer and they told me "We don't have any information on vehicles that old anymore..". Anyhow, I took the advice of the machine shop since he was the only one who had any clue (30 -35 ft. llbs) and broke two tabs off. Back to buy a new manifold (The first one was OEM Ford off a junker) . Anyhow, I got a new one from MAC's and put it on and it worked great. Thicker metal too. I used grade 5 bolts because the machine shop said stainless would break too and they were very hard to drill out when they did. Found the torque finally on felpro.com 13-18 ft. lbs, so I set it at 14 ft. lbs to be conservative. Thanks for all the replies folks.......

Jim
Harriman, TN.
 
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