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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I haven't bought it yet.
I'm looking at 3 different Mustang II fastbacks. Two are 2.8L V6's and the other is a 351W, not sure how good the work was.
I've always liked this body style back to when Gapp and Roush ran it in ProStock. I'm thinking of buying one of them and building it to go drag racing. I'm not looking for a 9-second car, just a 14-16 second bracket car but I wouldn't be against just rebuilding the V6. So I'm looking at either a 302 or, if it fits, a 200 6cyl (which would be slower but still ok). Two of the cars are T-top cars.
I'm not looking at a fox body car because all the 302 cars are priced like they are gold and I can get one of the Mustang II's for $1500-$2500.

Am I trying to put lipstick on a pig?
or
Is it worth trying to build?
 

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From back in the day that I worked at Ford and several Ford dealerships.

The V6 is a German design. It wasn't all that great in the day with some oiling and valve train issues. NOT recommended for high speed, high RPM or high loading. Use some other engine, like a small block Ford. If you are going to race and a stock small block Mustang II is expensive, get one with a six and trade the engine for a small block.

T-Tops Initially and it may have been through the entire model run that T-Tops were farmed out to Cars and Concepts in Michigan. They cut the roof and installed the glass. My experience with these cars in the field was in the Pacific Northwest where it rains a lot. Not a heavy rain, just a constant rain. Many of these tops leaked. A hobby car may not be a problem because it is not used like a daily driver and may be under cover in weather like that. Just know that the roof is part of the structural piece of the car. A T-Top car is not as strong as an all metal roof. Drag racing in not a low stress situation. I would not get a T-Top car for this kind of use. But they are pretty and conditioning the weather strips on a semi-annual basis is a must. Those weather strips are big and thick because the gaps are big.

A V6 T-Top Mustang II is a nice hobby car. And in my opinion is a poor race car. A co-worker from a very long time ago had a 76 or 78 M II with a 2.8 and T-Top in black with gold pin stripes and red interior. He was a detailer in the dealership I worked in 1987. That car was extremely nice and he took extremely good care of it. It did leak but not much.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
From back in the day that I worked at Ford and several Ford dealerships.

The V6 is a German design. It wasn't all that great in the day with some oiling and valve train issues. NOT recommended for high speed, high RPM or high loading. Use some other engine, like a small block Ford. If you are going to race and a stock small block Mustang II is expensive, get one with a six and trade the engine for a small block.

T-Tops Initially and it may have been through the entire model run that T-Tops were farmed out to Cars and Concepts in Michigan. They cut the roof and installed the glass. My experience with these cars in the field was in the Pacific Northwest where it rains a lot. Not a heavy rain, just a constant rain. Many of these tops leaked. A hobby car may not be a problem because it is not used like a daily driver and may be under cover in weather like that. Just know that the roof is part of the structural piece of the car. A T-Top car is not as strong as an all metal roof. Drag racing in not a low stress situation. I would not get a T-Top car for this kind of use. But they are pretty and conditioning the weather strips on a semi-annual basis is a must. Those weather strips are big and thick because the gaps are big.

A V6 T-Top Mustang II is a nice hobby car. And in my opinion is a poor race car. A co-worker from a very long time ago had a 76 or 78 M II with a 2.8 and T-Top in black with gold pin stripes and red interior. He was a detailer in the dealership I worked in 1987. That car was extremely nice and he took extremely good care of it. It did leak but not much.

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Thank you. This was extremely helpful. I was not aware of the issues with the Cologne V6 but will stay away from it. I had planned to run the car without the T-tops and only use them to keep dust out and keep weather out while towing to and from the track so that should work. I would install subframe connectors and go with a 302 and C4 but NOT the 400-500 hp crate motor.
Thanks again for your help.
 

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Not sure how much the all metal roof does for structural integrity.
On the flip side not sure if the holes in the roof reduce the safety of the vehicle. On that one you might ask the track that you will run if running with a T-Top less the glass would be permitted. I know little about drag strips and I think they would have safety on the top of their list.

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