[elliot_24_ne]

I have a 99 taraus with a slew of problems and here is the most recent one. With the car started and running I can't shift out of park. If I just turn the key a little then I can shift into neutral and start the car then shifts fine this would be ok, but I have no brake lights when this happens also radio dosen't work, windows won't work, speedo dosen't work (RPM, temp, and gas guage's work).
Before this started when ever I would turn off the car the door ajar alarm would continue to go off until I played around with the ignition a bit. Even then if I slammed the door hard or something the alarm would start back up. Also before the problem started and I turned on the car I would hear a bunch of clicking sounds from the brake pedal area and when I would press the brake the various insturment listed about would switch off when I released the brake they would switch on now it dosen't work at all.
I tried to wiggle around the wires and connectors attached to the brake pad but that didn't work. There appeared to be two switches, a lower one which appeared to tilt and such and something that was blue in color.
I personally think that a switch or something is out which is causing the car to think the brake pedal isn't down hence no brake lights and inablity to shift from park. As for the other things who knows I just want my brake lights to come on dang it!!!! Thanks for the help people

 

[Cuda_jim]

If you need more info let me know

See the files attached below.

 

[Poppy]

I'm not really sure if the brake lights is related, are you?

You do have a couple of components that may be at issue.
1. the ignition switch
2. the digital transmission range sensor.

does it seem to be more related to the turning of the ignition key? OR the location of your shift lever?

Also neither my 98 windstar nor my 99 craown vic require depressing the brake pedal to start the car. ARe you sure that your taurus does?

 

[elliot_24_ne]

I'm not really sure if the brake lights is related, are you?

You do have a couple of components that may be at issue.
1. the ignition switch
2. the digital transmission range sensor.

does it seem to be more related to the turning of the ignition key? OR the location of your shift lever?

Also neither my 98 windstar nor my 99 craown vic require depressing the brake pedal to start the car. ARe you sure that your taurus does?

I would say more related to the turning of the ignition key. I don't need to depress the bake to start the car. Car starts fine, just can't shift out of park when the car running.

 

[elliot_24_ne]

If you need more info let me know

See the files attached below.

Wow, tons of info. Looks like this will start to solve the problems if I could understand it I plan on just changing out the Brake Pedal position switch and the shift lock acuator. If you could give me a idea where these parts are and what they look like that would be a start...thanks

 

[electro]

You may have more than one problem. Often there is a layering effect that may play havoc with your sanity.

 

[elliot_24_ne]

You may have more than one problem. Often there is a layering effect that may play havoc with your sanity.

Tell me about it, for the time being, I would like my brake lights to work properly. I can live without the radio, speedo, and windows up for now

 

[Cuda_jim]

Wow, tons of info. Looks like this will start to solve the problems if I could understand it I plan on just changing out the Brake Pedal position switch and the shift lock acuator. If you could give me a idea where these parts are and what they look like that would be a start...thanks

It can be a little overwhelming at first but if you follow the diagnostics from the beginning you'll find the problem.

Start at the Symptom Chart where the Symptom says

 

[elliot_24_ne]

It can be a little overwhelming at first but if you follow the diagnostics from the beginning you'll find the problem.

Start at the Symptom Chart where the Symptom says

I'm starting to think it something bigger. something between the battery and all the fuses. These are the things that are out....Hazard lamps, cigar lighter, front wipers, shift interlock, decklid release, driver windows, rear defrost, interior lamp, and radio. The only things that appear to work are the headlights (low and high beams) and the turn signals.....Maybe a short or ground issue....something??? uggggg

 

[Cuda_jim]

Have you checked the fuses in the battery junction block under the hood?

 

[elliot_24_ne]

Have you checked the fuses in the battery junction block under the hood?

Just opened the hood and check all the fuses they are all good, none blown. As far as the little "black box" things so (relays maybe???) they are all looking in good shape to

 

[MissInformation]

I do not mean to confuse the issue here, and apologize if I am. I have attached some power and ground distribution diagrams specific to a 1999 Taurus.

You should start with Cuda_Jim’s suggestion of testing the fuses in the battery junction box. I have also attached the link to the Forums “HowTo Check your fuses”

http://www.fordforumsonline.com/forum/electrical-lighting/128-howto-check-your-fuses.html

 

[electro]

I have also attached the link to the Forums “HowTo Check your fuses”

YES! Great link.
Elliot, please rent, buy, beg or steal* a test light. It is invaluable right now. Won't cost ya much, and it will tell you loads of info, and is faster than a voltmeter. It is the most reached for tool in my tool box (after the hammer).




*disclamer: I do not advocate stealing a test light. However unauthorized borrowing....

 

[elliot_24_ne]

This is strange

YES! Great link.
Elliot, please rent, buy, beg or steal* a test light. It is invaluable right now. Won't cost ya much, and it will tell you loads of info, and is faster than a voltmeter. It is the most reached for tool in my tool box (after the hammer).




*disclamer: I do not advocate stealing a test light. However unauthorized borrowing....

Went to the auto zone and bought a continuity tester. I tested the device by touching the ground clip to the point and the light lite up so I know the tool was working. Now here is where it gets "weird" I attached the clip to the same ground as where the negative battery wire is grounded to and tested all the fuses the light didn't turn on once. I moved the clip to different places and tested again still nothing....For ****s and giggles I attached the clip to the positive battery post and tested each side of the fuses and they all worked....Whats going on here, am I doing something wrong or what??????

 

[electro]

Well, a continuity tester does what it's name implies, tests for continuity. Good for powered down circuits and testing parts of a circuit. We really need a test light ( the one that doesn't have a battery). Um, do you have time to go back and get one? Consider keeping the continuity tester for right now. Might come in handy down the line a bit.

 

[elliot_24_ne]

Well, a continuity tester does what it's name implies, tests for continuity. Good for powered down circuits and testing parts of a circuit. We really need a test light ( the one that doesn't have a battery). Um, do you have time to go back and get one? Consider keeping the continuity tester for right now. Might come in handy down the line a bit.

Ok, just went and got the test light. Turned the car to the on position and all the fuses checked out in the box under the hood. There is one fuse that looks like it's encased in metal so I don't know how to test that one. I'm now gonna go test all the fuses in the box. I'll let you know which ones work and don't work.

 

[Poppy]

I guess using his contiunity tester he is doing it hass backwards but it should work in that he checked continuity between both sides of the fuse terminals to the positive battery post.

But if you can pick up a test light, that would be easier for us to guide you, because that is how we do it.

 

[elliot_24_ne]

I guess using his contiunity tester he is doing it hass backwards but it should work in that he checked continuity between both sides of the fuse terminals to the positive battery post.

But if you can pick up a test light, that would be easier for us to guide you, because that is how we do it.

Just checked the other fuses with the test light. The ones that didn't work 2-4 (But my headlights work), 7, 8, 21-33. The one's that worked were 5, 6, 9-20. I can give you the description of each fuse if you want as well

 

[MissInformation]

Water always follows the path of least resistance – electricity flowing behaves similarly.

If you turn the tap on and the water flows into the hose but nothing comes out the sprayer, you wouldn’t replace the sprayer would you? A vehicle is like this, the battery is the tap, if it’s on electricity is flowing, in your case it is flowing from the battery to the BJB then onto the CJB then onto the fuses, then onto the components. If there is no power at the fuses themselves, I would be looking from there back, but that’s just me

Please note, that I am NOT a mechanic, and this is only my opinion. That being said, I suspect an open in the Tan/Black wiring from Fuse 1 in the Battery Junction Box (diagram 1 – upper right hand corner), it flows to Fuse 29 pin 22 Connector C225 and Fuse 26 pin 19 Connector C225 at the Central Junction Box (diagram 2 – upper left hand corner). If you follow its path it also flows to Fuses: 23, 25, 24, 21, 27, 26 and 22, this COULD be what is causing the problems you are experiencing.

Hope this helps.

P.S. I am attaching wiring diagrams 1 and 2 in .pdf form, as they are better to see.

 

[elliot_24_ne]

Water always follows the path of least resistance – electricity flowing behaves similarly.

If you turn the tap on and the water flows into the hose but nothing comes out the sprayer, you wouldn’t replace the sprayer would you? A vehicle is like this, the battery is the tap, if it’s on electricity is flowing, in your case it is flowing from the battery to the BJB then onto the CJB then onto the fuses, then onto the components. If there is no power at the fuses themselves, I would be looking from there back, but that’s just me

Please note, that I am NOT a mechanic, and this is only my opinion. That being said, I suspect an open in the Tan/Black wiring from Fuse 1 in the Battery Junction Box (diagram 1 – upper right hand corner), it flows to Fuse 29 pin 22 Connector C225 and Fuse 26 pin 19 Connector C225 at the Central Junction Box (diagram 2 – upper left hand corner). If you follow its path it also flows to Fuses: 23, 25, 24, 21, 27, 26 and 22, this COULD be what is causing the problems you are experiencing.

Hope this helps.

P.S. I am attaching wiring diagrams 1 and 2 in .pdf form, as they are better to see.

oh man, so what your telling me is to start at the Tan/Black wire from Fuse 1 on the BJB that flows to fuse 29 on the CJB?