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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Cooling system electrolysis is a real and problematic condition in Aerostars caused by multimetallic components involved within Cooling systems. Here are 2 links on this matter.
[URL="http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/electrolysis.htm"]www.sancarlosradiator.com/electrolysis.htm[/URL] Great dissertation on cooling system electrolysis use this link.

For less comprehensive/technical overview on problem, especially if you are/ were unaware of it use this link.
www.awrracing.com/media/electrolysis.pdf

The point is become aware & understand that this does exist, is very real, causes expensive yet very avoidable problems by preventing or arresting the phenomenon before it gets your vehicle.

This gives understanding of cause & Effect of an electrolysis problem. It's not limited to Aerostars, or front wheel drive vehicles either. It is result of divergent use of several & multiple metals plus cooling system chemistry and the passage of time. The 2nd law of thermodynamics more or less describes degeneration of matter as: Molecular Organization Decaying Into Chaos. Corrosion and errosion are 2 examples of degenration of matter & the matter that degenerated is what a incorrectly maintained cooling system was.
In older vehicles un-corrected electrolytic interaction among dissimilar metals has a devastating affect in corrosion & errosion on synthesiszed and/or alloyed metals generally speaking.
I replaced a lower intake manifold on my 4.0L Cologne V6 because sealing surfaces where waterjacket gaskets seat had become so eroded over 15 yrs & 200+K miles of use, before I was lucky enough to get my Aero. Fortunately I have the capacity to make repairs & parts on hand to use when needed. Non the less it was quite a job since I made repairs in vehicle & did not "drop" the engine as the Manuals suggest.
I did not know It would require a replacement lower intake manifold until I had it all apart. Although I suspected it might. When I got this vehicle the PO was running "Tap Water" for a coolant. The OEM Radiator had a cracked polymer side tank, and somebody had glued latex foam rubber on it with what appeared to be yellow 3M Weatherstrip Cement. I can't explain that logic. I wasted no time R&Ring radiator with an Aluminum HD Replacement and fresh long life coolant. Apparently replacing an old pressure cap with a new one on a new radiator was more than an erroded surface on lower intake could stand. The gasket began to seep slowly then eventually leak. It took me a while to discover what the cause of the coolant loss was.
Although only 1 waterjacket port actually was corrupted enough to fail, all 4 were degraded enough to corrupt their ability seal under pressure. All would
eventually allow coolant leakage in a short matter of time.
Fords Cologne built V6 with Cast Iron Heads & Cylinder Block is much more tolerant of overheating. Unlike an engine with alloy heads or Plastic + Alloy + Iron combinations, Iron Colognes don't generally warp and contort at the first sign of overheating. That is not to say they can be overheated frequently nor to any extreme degree however. If coolant gauge stays within parameters it ought not harm block or heads a time or two. But as with any machine, when it is continually run hot it will fail.
Good news is it's possible to correct, even control to a great degree, future electrolytic activity within a cooling system by using knowledge & suggestions you will find in links above. I know I'm doing it & we shall see how it goes.
In addition articles will tell you how to diagnose/ detect electrolysis problems along with all the other good info in them.
Removing the OEM copper Radiators is a good way to start IMHO.
I hope this helps others before you gat involved with this mess. It is a major PITA doint this repair in vehicle, and I would not attempt doing it in a driveway or the street either. At one point entire top of an engine is open & exposed to whatever is "Blowin in the Wind" (thnx Bob Dylan). Also the vehicle is totally out of service until reassembled.
Plus it's difficult to actually see what you're dong in engine bay tunnel. If one is unfamiliar with what's there & not quite used to feeling their way around in the dark, but wants to attempt repairing or replacing a lower Intake manifold on their Aerostar. Do it inside, use a cool drop light rather than HOT one.
You'll drop things, I promise, especially going back together, atleast I seem to drop things, & I'm no newbie at this stuff. . . . LOL :lol:

Okay let me see if I did this right & if link works. . . .
CIAO Y'all

FBp... :thumbsup:....:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I might add,
Search other sources on Coolant System Electrolysis by entering that terminology in any decent search engine of your choice. You will learn a lot. Also, abide by what you learn you'll SAVE a Lot too.

CIAO
FBp:)
 

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Thanks Electro,
More people should read your stuff. I'm amazed at how little folks really know about their vehicle. I knew I'd bought cooling system electrolysis problems when I bought the Aero I have now. I didn't know how long he'd run plain water & no T-Stat. I also didn't know how severe damage to engine was internally to alloy parts. Not until it was apart that is. My current Aero's PO's a typical example. So was last PO I bought from in 1990s. He had 3 different tire sizes & types on AWD drivetrain. It confounded by problems the off sized tires caused. The ECU was full of DTC's. I believe E-PROM was fragmented". Besides, he had an exhaust leak in a flex link between upstream & downstream O2 sensors before & behind cat' conv's.
So he put spark plugs in it. . . . . WHAT :confused: ?
Matched set of Michlens, repair flex link, delete all DTC's & take a short trip & it was a new Aerostar all over again.
We saved about 6k on that deal. . . . LOL :lol:
He hadn't had it long enough to mess up cooling system yet when we bought it for a song. was a good truck until about 300K miles.

CIAO
Thanks again
FBp. . . .:smile5:
 
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