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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry to start a new thread on this but I'm in a hurry to get this figured out as time really is money on this one.

My '11 Crown vic with 270k miles suddenly started running rough mostly at the lower end of the gears. By the time you got into o/d the whole car shook. Scan tool gives me P0307 cyl 7 misfire, and P0316 misfire upon startup. So I pull the coil on 7 to find a pool of burnt smelling coolant about 2" deep. Siphoned and blew it out and removed the plug to find it's electrodes fouled with a thin coat of something shiny and black. Rubbed off without much effort. The plugs are about 4 weeks and 1500 miles old. Pulled cyl 6 coil right next to it and found a lot of white particles about half the size of rice stuck to the sides of the plug well walls. Seemed odd as I'd just blown out all the plug wells a month ago. Blew it out again and removed the plug to reveal electrodes that were coated slightly white. This plug had a ring of a black just south of the hex part. Looked like darkened sort of coagulated oil. Wiped off easily.

The car drives much better now after blowing the antifreeze out of the plug well but the miss is still there. So glad as this might buy me some time to get this figured out.

I'm not even sure how it's possible for coolant to get in a plug well. Any ideas, head gasket maybe? What's my next step in investigating?
 

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Starting a new thread on a different condition is desired.

Your misfire is from the liquid shorting the spark to ground above the head.

Coolant above the head is difficult to get there. Are you sure it is coolant and not just water?

The plugs fouled are likely a result of not firing inside the combustion chamber. Because there are shorting to ground on the outside of the spark plug,

This is a 4.6l engine correct?
What part of the country are you located?

Replacing #7 spark plug may be needed if the normal operation does not burn off the debris. In a week pull #7 again and post pictures. #6 had smaller amounts of liquid in the well.


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Discussion Starter #3
A little perplexed but yes I'm fairly sure it's coolant. Although it looks like coca-cola it's slick between the fingers and has about the same viscosity.

Correct 4.6 engine.

Located in Lexington KY but I believe this car may have gone through a police car auction house up around Chicago.

It was actually just #7 that had any liquid in the plug well, #6 was dry. Didn't investigate #8 on the other side of 7. Probably should do that.

I've got an extra plug from where I couldn't get the #4 out a month ago. I'll replace the fouled plug in 7 with it and see what happens.
 

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If # 4 hasn't been replaced it will eventually no longer fire under acceleration. This will be a gradual thing.

I am not sure how coolant could get into the spark plug well. (And no other spark plug well) Unless coolant is all through out the crankcase and that particular spark plug well is leaking oil into the spark plug area.

Water from the engine being hosed down, OK that could get past the coil rubber boot. That part of the spark plug NOT inserted into the engine is basically outside of the engine or on top of the cylinder head. Not exactly somewhere near the cooling system.

When you pull the engine oil dip stick what does it look like?

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Discussion Starter #5
Changed the plugs out a month ago and everything seemed ok then. And I'm positive the engine hasn't been sprayed off since then, or anytime since May when I got the car.

Oil looked normal but dark as it has 10k miles on it. Just got new oil and a filter in it yesterday.
 

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I worked for a construction company that had Ford pickups, occasionally after a heavy rain or snow I'd have a flood of trucks in for missing, check engine lite etc.. I'd find the last two holes next to the firewall full of water and a quick Google search shows this was a common problem with trucks. Now crown vicks?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm getting advice that suggests I'm looking at a leaky intake manifold or gasket. Is there any test I can perform that will confirm it's my intake manifold that's leaking before I start taking parts off?
 

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With it running spray carb cleaner or break cleaner at the base of the intake manifold. The ldel should go up if there's a leak.
 

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Or connect a vacuum gauge and post the results. A vacuum gauge is a very good diagnostic tool for engines

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626-571-007__ra_t[1].jpg
you have a plastic tee pressed into the block under the intake manifold with a hose going to it
you have to pull the intake to check to see if is the cause of the leak
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks again for helping a stranger. Found the leak at the front driver side corner of the intake manifold. Really wish it wasn't so cold out now.

Any last advice on an inexpensive source for an OEM intake mainfold? Considering how much this car is driven I better stay away from after market.
 

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Thanks again for helping a stranger. Found the leak at the front driver side corner of the intake manifold. Really wish it wasn't so cold out now.

Any last advice on an inexpensive source for an OEM intake mainfold? Considering how much this car is driven I better stay away from after market.
That fitting is in the block under the intake manifold behind the water pump
as far as getting a Ford intake manifold search online for a ford dealer
Have your serial number handy
The ones I looked at ask the question about having a heated pcv valve and I couldn't find one even listed for a 2011 Police cruiser
Call your dealer and see if they can help you on the price
Dorman Makes on but I read where they have a hole that won't line up correctly
requires a little bit of trimming around one of the spark plug holes
If your PCV valve has no electrical wire going to the valve you would not have a heated valve
 

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Is the manifold leaking or the gasket/seal?

The manifolds for that engine starting with the 2002 model year were made of a nylon composite (plastic) with an aluminum coolant crossover at the front. Previous manifolds were made of all nylon composite and had known issues with coolant leaks.

The heated PCV for that era would be a coolant heated PCV and have a separate coolant hose at the coolant crossover in the front of the engine by the thermostat which leads to the throttle body.

Is the 8th digit of the VIN a "V"? That would be the engine code.

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Discussion Starter #14
Glad you mentioned the heated PCV valve option. Wasn't aware that was something I needed to look out for.

Still can't tell if it's the manifold or just the seal or gasket. I was told the updated manifolds had the gaskets already installed so I was thinking you needed to get the entire manifold and not just the gasket, but I might be wrong here.

This manifold has a metal section in the front, I would guess aluminum. And yes the 8th digit is a V.
 

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The metal section in the front is aluminum. May be painted and most are not.
Replacements will have seals/gaskets integrated into the manifold. The original may not.
Coolant does not pass through the entire manifold. Only through the aluminum part in the front and maybe the rear. Since you stated the leak is occurring in the lefty front you might want to inspect to see what is causing the leak. Is it -
The metal to plastic joint in the manifold?
The plastic manifold to cylinder head seal?
The plastic body of the manifold leaking?
Or the thermostat joint on the manifold?

The top three would require manifold removal.
The last one would only require thermostat housing removal and replacing that seal/gasket.
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ford_4_6L_intake_manifold_problem.jpg
 

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If you have to replace the manifold I think you are good with that engine. The above pictured manifold on the left would work. To make sure you want to inspect the thermostat mounting area on the left front of the manifold. If there is a small hose that attaches in that area and goes towards the rear of the engine by the throttle body, you have a coolant heated PCV. That manifold is different from the picture I posted.

And as as side note I have a 2006 5.4 l with an electrically heated PCV. I think there is some service interval for mine and your post brought that to my awareness that I might need some servicing on the PCV of my '06 5.4.

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Discussion Starter #17
Best I can tell it seems to be coming from the aluminum plastic interface. Not 100% on that just yet. Been driving it a while today and it leaked on start up but not since it got warm.
3528B45C-12ED-4B69-921D-E5482BCDB64B.jpeg
Here’s my thermostat housing and I don’t see any tubes coming off it so I guess I have the non-heated PCV valve version?
 

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Thanks for posting that picture. I would agree with your observation. Does not look like a coolant heated PCV system. No small hose. Interesting that the leak is not continuous. Likely plastic has to heat up a bit. And the #5 COP is right there!!! For a cheap shot see if the thermostat bolts would tighten just a smidge. Not sure what the torque spec in that would be and you might loosen a 1/2 turn and then tighten just beyond a 1/2 turn. You might be able to delay the repair a little.

That upper radiator hose looks good from the picture. And that is an OE hose clamp. (I like those clamps) If the upper radiator hose is OE then I would replace with the manifold or thermostat seal replacement. (Which ever fits for your concern) And if the coolant is anything less than clean, flush that out as well.

Not sure where you are located as you have not completed your profile with city and state, however in the Phoenix area it is in the mid-70s during the day. Other parts of the United States are a bit colder than that.

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