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Discussion Starter #1
Got a few questions here so thought I'd ask them all at once.

Have a '11 Vic base model and the local shop just did an evaluation telling me all the stuff that needs looked over...

1 - REAR DIFF FLUID DIRTY - I've changed out rear diff fluid once before on my Cherokee with the Chrysler 8.25 axle. Is doing this with the Vic about the same procedure?...Take off the diff cover and catch the fluid...drain and spray out diff with brake cleaner...clean the mating surface and replace plate with new gasket, then pump new diff fluid in the hole, then plug with stopper? It's a simple procedure on the Jeep. I'm just wondering if there's any hiccups I need to be warned about before getting into it.

2 - DIRTY THROTTLE PLATE - Can I clean this using a solvent and tooth brush leaving the TB on or should I take the whole thing off to make sure nothing gets into the engine. What solvent to use?

3 - LOOSE LEFT FRONT SWAY BAR - I've got some looseness in the steering and wondering if this could be causing it. Any tricks or advice to changing this out?

4 - ZERKS - There's lots of zerks on my Jeep to be attended to every year but I'm not so sure about the Vic since I'm just getting to know the car. What zerks does the Vic have I need to be aware of and greasing?
 

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1. Should be the same as the Jeep however rear axle fluid does not need to be changed on a periodic basis. This would be a waste of time and resources.
2. No! use a throttle body cleaner. It is designed for that purpose. Some throttle bodies have a coating. Using any cleaner would remove that coating. Would not recommend using anything other than a throttle body spray. (No brush) To prevent throttle bodies from getting dirty replace air filter more frequently.
3. Sway bar (and bushings) have no impact on steering. The sway bar has impact on suspension. (Body movement of the vehicle. NOT movement in the steering wheel) Sway bar end bushings and sway bar mounting bushings are both fairly easy to replace.
4. There should be NO zerk fittings on a stock FLM car from 2011. Some trucks have fittings, cars do not have grease fittings.

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Discussion Starter #3
Really happy with that info Action. Long story but the shop I originally took the car to for just a plug thread insert did a big inspection and came up with $2700 worth of overcharges, mostly flushing fluids. In the end they said doing the plug alone would be 750, from which I talked them down to 450, and then left and had it done for 100. I guess there's enough gullible people around here they can get away with that kind of stuff.

Just to satisfy my OCD self here's the pics they sent me of the rear diff fluid...

ai.imgur.com_sHFyG7b.png


ai.imgur.com_40kYtZt.png


ai.imgur.com_Guie9eV.png


That first pic on the paper seems to show some kind of flakes but it's hard to tell. I'd imagine if that was metal it would've collected on the plug, assuming it's magnetic. It's possible this fluids never been changed out with 280k on the car. So it's still ok to just let this be?
 

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Most of the plugs I have seen do not have a magnet. The fluid doesn't look all that good either. You could pass a magnet across that fluid to see if there is metal.

Does the car have a trailer hitch?
Is this a vehicle you just bought?
How many miles on it?

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
No trailer hitch on this one. This is the same 280k mile car I got back in June. Didn't get a chance to change out any of these servicable fluids before it got cold outside.
 

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Besides the above …...
May be this has been discussed … for a model year 2011 (8 model years old) with 280,000 miles or an average of 35,000 a year ….. besides engine oil and filter change
transmission fluid and filter
drain and fill cooling system
drain and fill brake fluid
Fuel filter, air filter & CC filter if so equipped
All oxygen sensors if not replaced in last 100,000 miles
Inspect brakes front and rear

Since the 2011 my CV was only fleet sales (and mileage on yours backs that up) the rear axle fluid does not look right. yeah it has a boat load of miles on it. However that fluid isn't supposed to need being changed. It may be contaminated. The axle will have a vent tube at the top somewhere with a rubber hose that goes off to no where. This hose is to prevent the majority of debris and moisture from getting inside. That may be the issue with your axle fluid is moisture or ??? is in there. Besides replacing the fluid it would be nice to know (and repair) the source of contamination. Do remove the rear cover and clean out the old axle fluid. BTW not sure that cover has a gasket. It may be gasket in a tube. Because of the weather in KY waiting to do this is likely not going to hurt anything.

I believe this engine (4.6l) has drive by wire with an electronic throttle body. If so all the more reason to use throttle body cleaner and NOT some general spray cleaner.

Since you have a fleet vehicle (police/taxi/fleet and long wheel base) there may be other quirks of things that are worn out. Rubber parts mostly like suspension.

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, thanks for that to do list. I've gotten about half of that done so far.

On the trans fluid, I've been told by some old timer mechanics never to flush transmission fluid if it's been in there a while, just drain and refill. Something about all that new detergent could dislodge something that could clog a passage.

Not sure what a CC filter is though...carbon canister?
 

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CC filter is a crankcase filter

I am not a fan of transmission fluid flushes. And the way most Ford transmissions are built the transmission and the torque converter can be drained, Meaning most of the old fluid will be removed.

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