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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What a great Easter spent almost the whole day working on the Falcon. I'd say I'm 70% done. I just have to finish wiring up my 2 speed fan controller. Can't finish today, too tired.

The electric fan is in.

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I got that tricky 140amp alternator rewired. I just made a mostly new harness along with a shrinky dink home made plug. I had to tap out the threads to get the bolt to thread in. Stupid fancy coating.

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While I was in there I did some clean up and repainting.

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Still have a little more wiring to do then I'll fire it up and see if this thing either blows up or cools like a banshee.
 

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Thanks for posting.

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Discussion Starter #5
I am 99% done but I seem to have fallen just before the finish line. I got the controller hooked to the fan and the heat probe pushed through my radiator, all grounds and all power routed where it needs to go.

The only thing I have left is just hooking up the wire from my switched 12v from the controller to my fuse box.

Where can you get these pigtail things that attach to the end of these glass fuses? What are they even called?


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Discussion Starter #9
I'm just trying to get the small wire to turn on the fan controller into my fuse box. I am tempted to stick the bare wire under the fuse contact, but I've done such a proper installation to this point that I just can't half ass the last part.

I guess I should probably just fuse two wires into one connector. I don't think that controller is sucking huge amounts of power, it's just relays and probably a small computer.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Got my pigtail installed today and the fan turns. Something is very wrong though because the controller seems possessed. It turns on and off randomly and does not properly cool anything when it does that. I don't know if it is a wonky controller (the adjustment screw is the most annoying tiny super shallow flathead knob) a bad sensor or a breaker that keeps tripping. My car used to run at about 170 pretty steady, now it climbs right up to 200-210 and the fan still doesn't come on and it climbs higher.

If I can't figure this out I am going to rip that POS out and put my big metal fan back. Now I have to travel the rest of the week so the damned thing is just going to have to sit. As of right now if you are thinking of doing this to your classic, I would have to advise against it.

On a positive note it drops down to 190 when I drive and I can feel a more zippy throttle. Maybe it is just in my head, but I swear it seems to rev more freely.

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Maybe I missed it, but am curious as to the objective (earler thread?), given your comment that it was running at 170 (which is too low) before the installation. Ford V8s were designed to run efficiently about 190 and should be at least 180.

The fuse connectors you found are kinda' cool; when I did my '66 289 years ago, I just used a simple ring connector from the main stud on the back of the ignition switch to the fused relay- after I figured out the guy who helped me wrongly used a connector on the stock ignition coil...
 

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Maybe I missed it, but am curious as to the objective (earler thread?), given your comment that it was running at 170 (which is too low) before the installation. Ford V8s were designed to run efficiently about 190 and should be at least 180.
I would prefer even hotter than 190. I would want 200 to 205 for an operating range.

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm not sure if my temp gauge reads accurately, I need to get one of those fancy laser thermometers and see.

My objective was to see if I could make my car idle for 5 minutes without it overheating.
The radiator is amazing. Driving the temp is rock steady always, but if it sat still for just a short while the temps climbed well into the 230+ range rather rapidly.
I was hoping an electric fan would make that all go away, and it still might if I can get the controller to work properly.

Either way my work is having me travel for the next week too, so no getting back to the car anytime soon.
When I do I'll let you guys know what I found.
 

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How old is the water pump?

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