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Well I'm well underway in what has turned out to be a long and tireless project. Things I didn't plan on removing just seemed to block out ares that needed to be sanded, or wire brushed. The inside of the falcon engine bay is narrow with the engine in, and I found out just as narrow without it when standing inside trying to get to the lower shock towers. I'm not as small nor flexible as I used to be that's for sure.
The wiring on the car was a mess and that's what I'm doing now as I start to reassemble all the parts I removed. I'm rerouting the MSD box power wires thru the frame under the Radiator support instead of under the upper section. That way it can feed up to the power buss I mounted under the solenoid.
Painting the little things along the way. The new engine is ready but I have a ways to go before it goes back in. I also am taking this opportunity to install an RRS rack and pinion.

So with all the snow keeping me home I'm going to work on it while the snow accumulates which is about 16" so far. Thank god for space heaters!
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Before I started you can see the wiring mess. Only the wires near the blower motor were new which are for the EFI system I put on the car this summer.
The lower firewall harness must have been overheated as 3 of the wires had no insulation and he used shrink tubing. Luckily Falconparts.com had a brand new one. Note the rerouted wire coming out of the firewall upper center to feed the solenoid. Most of the wiring in the car that was modified was composed of 2 and sometimes 3 different wire colors! Check out the solenoid wire with the inline fuseholder. Check out the red wire for the MSD, two different ga sizes. He must have had a barrel of old wire laying around!

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ready for paint.JPG


Bought a tower ceramic heater to get the metal warn prior to painting. I can use it later in the house as it works great. I still had a few runs as I couldn't get the air temp much above 60 as I had to turn off the heaters to paint. After I have everything mounted I'll see if the runs need sanding and painting. I'm pretty much out of epoxy primer and touch ups would be easy since they're in accessible areas.

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This was a lot of work. Just when I thought I was done I saw areas with two different coats of black paint.
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Before I painted the bay I test fit the rack to make sure there's no show stoppers it. It mounted as advertised. Hoping once the engine's in I won't have any exhaust interference. Once I get my lift I'll do the exhaust with new headers. The Sanderson shorty headers will have to do for now!

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After I shot it I placed the heater on a bucket and had it rotating. At this temperature I think it will take a week for the epoxy primer to cure. I sprayed a matte clear finish over the epoxy for less sheen and to protect it from UV rays. I even painted the area between the cowl and the compartment which was the original color badly weathered. I found that Rustoleum regal red is almost a dead match to Rangoon Red Look at the fenders and the new area for the match. Only the inner thin fender lips and under hood are original color. Why they masked that off I don't know. I might mask off the engine bay and upper fender and spray them after. I'll also remove the bolts take the red off. I believe they weren't originally body color.

Back to the wiring!
 

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It's looking great!
 

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The more time you spend now on the wiring the longer the service life will be. Having several connections in a circuit is just asking for a failure down the road.

Kudo for the job you are doing.

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Discussion Starter #4
The more time you spend now on the wiring the longer the service life will be. Having several connections in a circuit is just asking for a failure down the road.

Kudo for the job you are doing.

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Not to mention I'm using the correct wire colors! I hope copper is up, the amount of old wire I removed I might just buy me a Capt'n and coke! I know there were many cooks in the kitchen over the years with a car this old but the previous owner was responsible for this blunder. He put Edelbrock E Street heads with 1.90" intake valves with stock pistons with reliefs for 1.78" intakes. So the valves were kissing the pistons with every stroke!

Steve
 

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The correct wire colors just makes finding an issue that much easier.
The wiring diagrams in the shop manuals back then were not the best.
Finding an issue in a circuit that the color had changed or changed more than once would drive me bonkers.

I wonder what the thinking was in putting heads with bigger valves. Then looking down at the top of the piston, "Hey wonder what that is for???". And the PO paid money at least to buy the parts. I shake my head sometimes.


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64 Falcon Sedan Futura, 408 on bags
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I am going through the same problem but not as in depth as you... the PO used whatever wiring he could find, different sizes, different connectors, and even used housing wiring. My engine bay is a wreck. Yours is coming out real nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would suggest you pick up the Falcon Shop Manual. I have both that and the thin wiring diagram folder and the shop manual is much better. The folder was a waste of money. I found a company that sells custom wire with stripes in all combinations. It's a slightly different color sometimes and the stripe is more of a twisting pattern rather than a straight stripe but as long as the one end and other end are the same color combination it is traceable.
 

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Nice work!
I think some original painting details varied depending on which plant did them and when. On both of mine, the pinch weld flange at the top of the firewall was the dividing line between the black and the body color--exactly as your appears now.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Anyone know what was the original color of the fender bolts along the top of the fenders under the hood? I heard they were natural or black painted. I want to do them and replace the rubber bumpers while I'm at it. Also if anyone can measure the original heater hose openings in the firewall I'd appreciate it. Note the goofy electrical fittings he used like a bulkhead connector. When I redo the interior I want to restore the floor tunnel (if I can find a good donor) and I'd like to weld up all the uneeded holes and those heater hose holes are going to need some sheet metal repair.

Thanks
Steve
 

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I don't know and I have some thoughts

I think it is more likely a coating than a paint. Galvanize coating would be one example.
Paint was applied to sheet metal not fasteners. However if fastener was attached to sheet metal then it got painted.
An example of that is valve covers. Valve cover bolts were never painted because the cover was painted off of the engine. Then installed on the engine with bolts that are not painted
Paint is a poor coating for items that will be moved.
I do not know the cost of different coatings. And you can place a bet that the lowest cost coating would be used
Pretty sure Ford used vendors to supply fasteners. In different plants different vendors supplied fasteners.

Lastly the Mustang is well documented. You might look at that documentation

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For 1962 thru 1964 ( and maybe later), the part number for the fender bolts is 353483-S2. That is the bolt for fenders and radiator support. Its a 5/16-24 X1" and it is used in many locations.

That "S2" suffix identifies the finish as " Raven ( Phosphate & Oil)"---I do not know what that means.
Here is the complete list of Ford's hardware finishes:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks all for the ideas!

Steve
 
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