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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

Dunno if anyone might find this of interest, but thought what the heck. I know this is only a Crown Vic forum and my car here is a 1994 Grand Marquis LS I hope this doesn't cause anyone consternation as Crown Vic, Town Car and Grand Marquis are all Panthers and mostly the same thing.

We bought this to replace my old 1993 Grand Marquis LS, it was getting rusty as it was from the Midwest originally and the decade + of winters had already took it toll on the ferrous parts of the car. I've already replaced every single brake and fuel line in that car and they were getting rusty again. Plus the front wing has rust bleeding out through the paint on the lower leg so the steel was compromised and rust holes in the underside of the rockers. Anyway, you get the idea. Plus the engine was getting tired and was starting to burn oil.

So the wifey found a nicer Southern (ABQ metro area all its life) 1994 Grand Marquis LS on Craigslist. Although it was clean (rust wise) it wasn't without its fair share of problems. And 1400 dollars later it was ours.

Before we sold off the 1993 since both cars had the same colour interior we took the best parts of the '93 and made the '94 as nice as it could be.

But onto the mechanical/electrical problems it had and what was done so far to correct them.

1. Had a shudder just after 40 MPH. --> drained all fluid from trans pan and torque converter (drain plug on converter), new filter and fluid. Problem solved.

2. Power windows either broke or really slow. --> Since Panthers are notorious for breaking regulators I just replaced all 4 regulators, dismantled the motors and cleaned the conductive brush material out of the commutator slots (shunts current from armature windings). All windows work great now.

3. Radio inoperative --> I couldn't find an easy like radio because this car has the premium sound system so I tore into the radio itself. This one is more involved, but short story it looks like the power supply watchdog had failed and would cause the micro to reset to off after the power button was pushed. I couldn't find the unique and outdated IC so I just disconnected it from the microcontroller input and it powers up normally and works fine. It'll do till either I can find a like replacement radio or a part/ logic board.

4. HVAC blower only works on high speed ---> This car has automatic climate control with a variable speed blower controller and not a standard resistor for the 3 lower speeds like the conventional system. It was the main transistor (To3 package) in the blower control that was open. I had a spare module and just replaced the whole thing. Problem fixed.

5. Check Engine Lamp --> After extracting the codes I had three; EGR Flow, EGR Pressure Sensor voltage out of range and circuit malfunction in Canister Purge. I tackled the canister purge first, I checked the purge solenoid valve and its resistance was nominal compared to a new one (had recently installed the same part in the 1993 for the same reason). Just to be sure I checked for power to the solenoid with key on and it was there so I just replaced the solenoid and that code went away. My educated guess is that even though it checks out fine on the bench after it warms up in use it either shorts or opens triggering the DTC.

As for the EGR flow, put a vacuum pump on the EGR valve, could hear it moving, but no change at idle so the ports are plugged and need to be cleaned. As for the pressure sensor having voltage out of range, I bought a new sensor and currently in process of mending these two problems.

6. No air con --> The system has no refrigerant in it. So I put a bit in and with an electronic sniffer confirmed the evaporator is leaking, also found the high side port damaged and when I checked the orifice tube I found most of the compressor innards against the screen. My guess is this was leaking for some time and they kept adding refrigerant but no oil. Well since all leaks carry the oil out, it slowly roasted the compressor. So new evaporator, new compressor, high pressure line, accumulator and orifice tube. In process of that.

7. Looses coolant --> Found the radiator has wet spots on the bottom (core is getting weak) and the water pump is wet around it. Also found the bearings in the water pump clunky and knackered, so new radiator, water pump and for good measure hoses and thermostat. In process of that.

8. Belt or belt driven item squeals like a cat being disemboweled for a few minutes when cold. --> found the idler, tensioner and water pump bearings not long for the world. The idler and tensioner bearings are loose and feel like they are using dirt for lubricant. New parts there and a new belt. In process.

So that's the waffling over with, here are a couple of pics. More to come and I get my arse in gear :)

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0012_zps3k4igqqa.jpg


Engine bay disassembly so far.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0002_zpsbelh5fnb.jpg


Table of new things including a radiator at the bottom.
 

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Interesting - clunky and knackered and squeals like a cat being disemboweled.

My my one gets a visual from that!!!

And you sure keep yourself out of trouble.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hello Action,

How's things?

Well you know how it is when you buy a used car, especially one that is 23 years old. I had my '93 for 10 years and kept up with all the niggles along the way. The previous owner let all that lapse so I'm trying to cram all that repair and maintenance in a few weeks so I won't have to worry about reliability so much.

So this is where I am at now
ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0001_zpsyozpatgx.jpg


Still have to remove the intake and the HVAC plenum assembly. There's that brilliantly placed (NOT!) heater hose between the intake and valley that needs to be replaced.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0002_zpsz3bq6h43.jpg


You can see that little hymmmm----- part behind the water pump cavity. Plus the old gaskets in the intake could use a change, had to replace those on my '93 because it was running lean and they were just old and leaking.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0003_zpslkiu9tqh.jpg


Now that HVAC plenum,,,,,, ggggggggggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

I've had to replace the evaporator on my '93 (seems to be a problem with these cars) and service manual pretends the engine is not in the car. Well duh, it's easy to remove without the bloody engine in the way. But some folks say in the forums you can flex/fight it out.

I tried that approach on the '93 and after 20 years the plasticizers in most of the plastic parts in the engine bay have long since "left the building" and I cracked my housing on my '93. So I'm hoping with the intake and the pass side rocker cover off I might be able to wiggle it out.

Still have to remove the inner apron on the pass side too.

But break time...
 

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That heater hose is a short hose connected to the intake. Correct?

I hear ya about making up years of maintenance. I assume nothing is doen when I get a used ride. And I never buy new. I have 4 oil changes to do this weekend. Time to maintain the fleet for the summer run.


>>>>>>>>>Action
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That heater hose is a short hose connected to the intake. Correct?

I hear ya about making up years of maintenance. I assume nothing is doen when I get a used ride. And I never buy new. I have 4 oil changes to do this weekend. Time to maintain the fleet for the summer run.


>>>>>>>>>Action
Hi Action,

Actually that silly hose is about 6" long and connects the back of the water pump cavity to a steel pipe that traverses out the back of the block and up along the back of the passenger head where the flexible heater hose then connects it to the core. If Ford would have engineered that tube to flange seal to the back of the water pump cavity there would be no shorty hose to worry about. Try to change that on the side of the road..... nope..

Ug, oil changes I know how that goes, I still have to change coolant on the convertible (That '73 Chevrolet holds 6 gallons of coolant!), the Impala SS and the 2004 Grand Marquis.

That's going to be one full shopping cart with distilled water and antifreeze, not to mention a colossal mess, as it seems no mater how hard you try to drain the radiator and block into a container it ends up everywhere else but there.

Cheers!
 

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I do that liquid change outside. I never can contain the mess.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here's that insidious hose exposed. It clamps to the back of the block.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0001_zpspabob30m.jpg


and the reason for the DTC (Check Engine lamp) of no EGR flow

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0002_zpsgasburf3.jpg


The 3 small EGR ports are completely plugged, just as I suspected.

Now onto the evaporator..... <sigh>
 

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Is that a 4.6? Is that on all 4.6 engines?

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Aciton
 

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Is that a 4.6? Is that on all 4.6 engines?

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Aciton
Yuppers it's the 4.6L mod engine and if I may speak frankly, it is a bastard of an engine. The reason I say this is it's internally smaller than a 289, larger externally than a 460 and makes a Briggs and Stratton seem very powerful. Actually I wish Ford would have just used a nice little tuned port EFI Windsor in there. Yah I know they had to meet new corporate fuel economy standards imposed on by the Feds, but still.......

For a full size car this is so crammed in there at the back it's a bear to work on. It might as well a Mini Cooper with a big block shoved in there.

If I remember the 2004 Merc with the 4.6L also has this when I had to replace the intake. At some time Ford redesigned the intake to move the EGR topside more towards the throttle body (infinitely easier to get to) and they do not suffer from plugged EGR ports like this early rendition of the 4.6L. It's not uncommon every several years to have to clean these ports out. Did it twice in 10 years on the '93.

Of course when Ford redesigned the intake to cure the EGR plugging problem they simultaneously made it better by solving that problem and made it worse by making it out of a composite material. Hence the reason I had to replace the entire manifold on the 2004. It had more cracks in it than a windscreen cruising through an asteroid field.

Does anyone know what material those intakes are made from? Glass filled PC, ABS, Nylon? I like how they call it "composite" to make it sound high tech. It's high tech for cheap POS. :)

OK back to work... :)
 

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I have that block with DOHC in my '96 Mark VIII. You are correct with the back of the engine access. Throttle body is a bit of a bear to reach. ( I am only 5' 8")

I believe, most of the reason for composite was weight. When I worked for the company I was talking to an engineer. This guy wasn't in the design part he was a tech engineer. And he knew design guys. He said they would get so excited about reducing weight of an ounce or more. Hence the composite or plastic of any type versus steel. Just a guess on my part.

Just don't have the longevity of steel.

Back to goofin off.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am sure saving weight is foremost on their minds for fuel economy. But they should choose the areas in weight savings more carefully. Now if they would stamp the body out of aluminum there's their weight savings.

I can't but help feel the real reason the change from aluminum intake to composite was that it was plain and simple cheaper. For them.... not the consumer who has to replace it several years later. Or worse pay someone to replace it.

Now back to the thick of it.

The evaporator is housing is out.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0001_zpsurrunwlx.jpg


so is a good portion of the car too......<sigh>

It appears if you remove the rocker cover and all that bric-a-brack behind the head it slides out easily with no flexing or damage. Cool beans...

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0002_zpsjlaeumgp.jpg


As Higgins from Magnum PI would say, "Oh My God!"

some assembly required....

Here's the funny (maybe) ironic bit, so I was earlier making fun of this engine comparing it to a Briggs and Stratton. Well I have never had a reason to look into one of these before, or care to really, but removing the rocker cover gave me my first glimmer into how these are constructed.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0004_zpswxmrtf1j.jpg


Holy Briggs and Stratton Batman, look at how small the valves, springs, and retainers are, not to mention the cam lobe thickness. They do look like parts from a lawnmower engine!


ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0005_zpsk1mg10qx.jpg


The timing chain looks like something off a bicycle.

This are the dinkiest parts in an otherwise physically large engine! The way the head is constructed it looks like something Orville and Wilbur Wright made for their Wright Flyer.

At this point I am not sure who the joke is on more o_O.

No wonder this thing gets 30+ MPG. Then again if I put an otherwise overgrown lawnmower engine with overdrive in an car, what does one expect ;)

Done for today... Tomorrow reassembly....

Cheers
 

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"I am sure saving weight is foremost on their minds for fuel economy. But they should choose the areas in weight savings more carefully. Now if they would stamp the body out of aluminum there's their weight savings."

OK I forgot to add cost is a factor. Cost is always a factor! The design goal would be to create a design that does the job, weighs nothing and costs nothing. A lighter material may be available (for the time given) and yet the cost is always a concern. If it were not then a different design may be possible.

BTW in this day and age, servicing a given part is last in a designer list of priorities. And many times the design is altered after the original assembly is created and built outside of the whole of the vehicle.

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As to the size of parts, this engine isn't expected to see the standard of use that you have built your FE. That engine, once complete, will outlast this 4.6l multiple times in typical legal street use.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Hello Again,

I gave this escapade some thought last night and thought well I should do a better job at pictures and being less facetious ( I said less, not totally eliminating it :D) about Ford's lack of detail and quality in the 90's in this case.

This could give someone a good idea of what they're getting into if they decide to tackle a project like this with their Panther. So the new plan is to go over the key steps in assembly and anyone can read this in reverse for disassembly.

So enough talk and more action.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0001_zpsqsjlrq0x.jpg


Here's the HVAC plenum containing the evaporator.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0002_zpsbhwrun2h.jpg


The problem is there is one contiguous gasket connecting both halves together. This, due to age will rip if you try to unstick it off one side.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0004_zpsgmg4zu89.jpg


split the case and hinge it on that gasket....carefully. Use a putty knife to work around the seal on the halves.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0006_zpsreerwazj.jpg


ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0007_zpsqpgcamn2.jpg


transfer the plastic retainer and line clamp to the new core.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0010_zpsr9qwiacc.jpg


Before tightening the screws on the case make sure the plastic retainer on the core lines up with the screw holes on the front part............ Otherwise you'll be doing that twice :(

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0011_zpsjo9hmfpv.jpg


New core installed in case

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0013_zpslnhmpqnf.jpg


I swear Ford wanted to see how many different fasteners they could use to hold the plenum to the firewall. There's two sheet metal screws (different thread pitches) that go atop the plenum. The self tapping sheet screw goes on the right hand side and the regulator sheet metal screw on the upper left.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0014_zpspwaojnk1.jpg


There's 3 studs with nuts. 1 on top and 2 on the bottom.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0015_zpsuqyocp7h.jpg


Once the plenum is on and those screws are in and the nuts tightened, there is one sheet metal screw that needs to be installed from the inside of the car under the dash. Yuppers Ford wanted to see how convoluted they could attach this thing. <sigh>

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0018_zpsswdsgtud.jpg


Here's the other screw (pointing to it with the socket), once that's tightened, attached the cream coloured hose to the port on the left of that screw. You'll only have this hose and consequently port if you have automatic climate control, with a manual HVAC head these will not be present.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0020_zpsv4z1hcpv.jpg


In case you're wondering where that hose ends up, it snakes around the instrument cluster and comes out above the clock and this is the suction to the blower motor. Right behind that opening is a thermistor sampling cabin air temperature. As this is suction it pulls in cabin air and gets a temp reading for the auto-climate control system.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0022_zpssodzhp6e.jpg


To remove the lower dash plastic valence to get to that screw and hose (if so equipped) these will come in handy so you don't have to molest the plastic pieces in removing it.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0024_zpsh1j72aha.jpg


The good news is this is all that's needed inside the car. The bad news is there is still a crap load of parts to put back together in the engine bay.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0033_zpsrre8jxvu.jpg


On the blower, good grief it's so cheaply made it's even glued together! But now is a good time to have a peek at the brushes (life left) and blow all that old brush ground down brush dust out.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0028_zpsqmlhvori.jpg


The brushes still have plenty of life left, however if the armature is hard to turn or binds or the bearings squeal/k then just pitch it and you'll need another one.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0034_zpszq1stkrj.jpg


Can install it now.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0036_zpsrjvkuva1.jpg


Clean off the mating surface on the head for the new rocker cover gasket. You'll notice it's still a tight fit getting that HVAC plenum on and off. You'll be brushing up head and control arm taking it off and on, but nothing detrimental to the parts.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0037_zps0vetdsi4.jpg


New parts.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0038_zpsvfmpwkyi.jpg


Installed that rocker cover, geeze that silicone gasket is a pain in the arse. It doesn't stay in on its own, needs sealant, which kind of defeats of the whole purpose of using silicone gaskets in the first place o_O. Ford could tear a page out of GM's 90's book on small block and rocker cover gaskets that use silicone reusable gaskets. Much easier!

ok break time...
 

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Nice work up.

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I can believe you get tired. Don't blame you for taking a lil time off. I did the same last night and watched you tube vids of WWII tanks being salvaged. A pure waste of time where my brain was disengaged.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
OK back to the meat and potato's

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0001_zpsubpbcwan.jpg


The O2 sensor can go back in. Actually it never needed to come out, but I thought since everything is out of the way, if it should put up a fight trying to extract it, now is the time to pick that fight and not when it's all back together when you have to change it in the future. Of course antiseize. Loads of antiseize :cool:. As a point I use antiseize on all bolts, especially the ones going into aluminum or other alloys.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0002_zpsipcegwvo.jpg


Crows foot open end works well in that tight location.
ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0003_zpslpzkeqbu.jpg


Next is the harness that contains the positive and negative battery cables. There are two mountings on the engine for the harness holders. One on the side here (if you look sort of midway on the exhaust manifold you can see the bolt loose in the head.) And the other is on the back side of the pass head.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0005_zpsr3alctx4.jpg

Here's the other one, you can see the fastener loose on the head back. It's a bi*&%^# err I mean bear to get to. :(

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0006_zpsr0doxkik.jpg


Once that's tightened you can connect that O2 sensor since that bracket also hold the connector for the pass side O2

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0007_zps5ynschda.jpg


Tighten the other one and just drape the harness down in front.
ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0008_zps7gbioxqa.jpg

Next take a cutter and CAREFULLY slice off the crimp cuff holding the hose to the metal pipe.
ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0009_zpslxamhn1h.jpg

Old one off and new silicone hose with stainless hose clamps to go one (this will outlive me)

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0011_zpscgypfqvm.jpg


That coolant hose uses these two fasteners to hold it to the back of the pass head. My advice is on the stud, just use it to locate the tube and tighten the bottom bolt for now and remove the stud. Sure you can leave the stud in but it gets a little in the way for attaching the EGR valve back on. I mean why make matters worse if you don't have to, right...:rolleyes:

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0012_zpseoz3wgsx.jpg


Coolant pipe installed.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0013_zpsknt2eaiu.jpg


Can install the water pump. Just make sure the cavity area where the O-ring sits is clean. This is 23 years of corrosion around that area so I spent some time smoothing it back out so that little O-ring has a chance of sealing. Also it goes without saying never install that with a dry O-ring. Use either petroleum jelly or synthetic grease.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0014_zpsz6nmdiqy.jpg


Torqued down and pulley installed.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0015_zpsa2555htr.jpg


For the intake being 23 years old I am electing to change the O-rings on the injectors as that's the one leak you do not want (high pressure fuel).

It's important to clean the bosses where the O-rings go into the manifold. So take fuel rail off, injectors and clean good. Also clean out the carbon in the EGR slots on the throttle body interface area.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0016_zps5br4griq.jpg


This is was just funny. I found the analog gauge temp sensor wedged down in the manifold. It's never been installed. My humorous guess is that on the factory line the analog gauge cluster being the majority the line worker grabbed a sensor for that then looked at the build sheet and this engine was destined for a digital dash car so he probably said screw it and tossed this sensor in there and got the correct one for the digital dash.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0017_zpsyg952ybg.jpg


Cleaned the heads making sure intake gaskets are correct.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0018_zpsgugebvve.jpg


Cleaned intake

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0019_zps3mr0vcn3.jpg

Both the intake and heads have pitting from old coolant so contrary to using silicone gaskets you'll want to smear RTV around these ports so they don't leak, because otherwise they will.

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0021_zpsziovdp36.jpg


New thermostat and O-ring
ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0022_zpsxrmlrnpu.jpg

Torqued down

ai1382.photobucket.com_albums_ah248_Rlauren454_1994_20Grand_20Marquis_20LS__DSC0025_zpswbiui516.jpg


With the Ford part number still on the old thermostat here and its condition I would wager it's the original. Now it's pretty much common that a stuck closed thermostat (overheated engine) is a death sentence for aluminum heads. As the chances for warping or cracking is greatly increased.

So always good idea to change the thermostat if uncertain on age.

Back to work....
 

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Thanks. Question on anti-seize. What flavor are you using for the O2 sensor? And do you have others?

I ask because I was using one type for several things. Then I bought my 06 Navi with the spark plug issue in that vintage of 5.4. The anti-seize I had wasn't rated for the spark plug application as the part that requires an application is INSIDE the combustion chamber. Now I have several different kinds with different temp ratings. And when it comes time to replace I am thinking of just buying the highest temp rated. It is a bit more coin however I would only have one can and not several.

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