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Discussion Starter #1
Well the FMX I rebuilt lasted for a good year of me beating the hell out of it. Just about what I was expecting.

So new C6, flex plate, and 2600 stall are in. Had to spin the cross member around as some one suggested but had to keep the fmx mount and just drill new holes to match the C6. Also required 1 1/2 spacers between shift linkage brace and bell housing. Kick down matched right up. Shift linkage is in the works. Ran new hard lines to trans cooler with one 5ft and a 6ft 7/16 lines. That was the easiest part so far. Now I'm fighting the drive shaft.

I'm trying to make the C6 yoke work with the ds because it seats in a good 2" further than the FMX yoke. They are both 31 spline, just to clarify.

The front U-joint is 1 1/16 cups x4 and is 3 1/4 x 3 1/2 inner dimensions. I was trying to fit a 3 1/4 x 3 1/4 before I realized that the yokes have the same u-joints.


Time to go play again, be back in a bit.

I got the shaft assembled and it is still 1.5" to long. Shift linkage is done. I need one that's 60" center to center.

Thinking about just getting a custom aluminum shaft made by the Drive Shaft Shop online. About $400ish
 

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Do you have a deep yoke on the rearend? You might be able to use a truck yoke, they are at least an inch shorter. I'll have to go look if you'd like. Sorry so late to chime in. Rich
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have a new driveshaft coming from The Drive Shaft Shop. Should be here on the 18th. Aluminum shaft chromoly joints with new yoke. A well spent $500, hope it fits! Finally be back in my car and have 3rd gear again. And swapped out my secondaries spring for a weaker one so now I actaully have a 4bbl.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My speedo cable wont reach the C6 and I want to go to an electric/digital speed anyway. Is there a conversion from mechanical to electrical. I was searching for a sending unit but only found them for motorcycles. Will these work? Same concept.

Hope drive shaft shows up tomorrow.
 

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Try one out of a 90's ford rear drive. They were in process of changing all that to electronic .IIRC A lot of the early 90's had a cable with a sensor piggybacked onto it. Rich
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wow, I'm really displeased with the Drive Shaft Shop. They said 2 days to build and 2 days to ship. It's been 2 weeks and still no shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Drive Shaft Shop sucks! It should be here on the 1st now. Nice 4 days guys. It better be right!:mad5::incazzato::mad2:
 

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there are several speedo options, you can hunt around for a longer cable.. and there are electric conversions but a bit pricey
 

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you can always pull one from a truck with a C6 in the boneyard...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Got the drive shaft yesterday and amazingly, it's WRONG! The cups on the rear are only 1 1/16 where I told them 1 1/8, oh and the yoke is a tiny 26 spline (looks more like its for a miata) where I needed a large 31 spline. I got them to overnight me the needed parts free of charge. Other than that it looks good and weighs about half as much.
 

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When I put the C6 in my 64 Galaxie, I used the same speedo cable that was in the car, I my have rerouted it a bit. I also used a drive shaft from a 67 Galaxie, silped right in and was the right lenth. I used a B&M cable sifter that worked great.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Driveshaft is in and trans is shifting good. I have 3rd gear again and I don't have to manually shift it! I have three problems though.

1. The TCI 2600 stall converter engages at stock rpm around 1100.

2. I have no fluid flow to the trans cooler.

3. There is a loud whine only when in the throttle. Sounds like a super charger.
Torque Converter? Band adjustment? It's in all forward gears. Can't say it's not in
reverse since I've only gone about 5mph backing up.

I used the Broader performance 500HP rebuild kit which required some valve body mods like grinding a notch out in one of the vanes and drilling an extra hole in the divider plate. Also notching out fluid supply holes in the main shaft.

All of the hard parts to include the pump were in great condition. The converter went in with three good clicks so I know it engaged the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The new dip stick I was using showed full at 8qt to include the 1qt I put on the converter. After digging around I found the fluid capacity is 13.3qt that's stright from the 66 ford/merc manual. I now have a total of 14qt into a dry trans with a +1qt deep pan. I took the lines off the trans and ran it for a sec and there was no flow.

The pump has to be working since it's moving and shifting. I take it that the line coming from the front is the pressure line from the pump? Then what does the rear line feed into? It won't hurt to blow into the trans through these to try to clear any stopage will it?only problem I see with that is that whatever is causing the blockage will now be inside (dirt dobbers if anything).
 

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c6 swap

6Dsick, I'm doing similar install, but I am running into a different problem. I made extentions to compencate for longer trany, well let me explaine what I'm doing. 65 galaxie that I bought with no motor or trans. Got a 390 and c6 and tring to make it all work. Car origanally had 289/c4. My problem is the crossmember will lift the trans up too high. When you say you spun the crossmember around did you spin the whole member or just the trans mount? Did you have any elevation issuses? Did you make extentions off the frame mounts?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
No elevation issues. I have an FMX trans mount with a 1/4 steel plate to attach the mount to the trans. Quick fix my dad and I did a few years ago when the motor first got rebuilt and noticed there was NO trans mount and tail shaft was just sitting on the cross member.

Once I'm satisfied with a good trans, I intend on fabing my own tubular cross member and going to a center mount E-brake.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Got new stator from local shop. There was no blockage. The Broader Performance kit had me remove and bore out the drainback valve in the stator. That caused fluid from valve body to dump right back into case rather than to torque converter and out to cooler.

IT'S ALIVE! A good 1man 5hr trans assembly and install. Not bad. And everything is working great. I think the 2600 stall is perfect for street/strip.

One really good idea I had (someone's probably already done this) was cutting two 4" pieces of 7/16 threaded rod and threading those about an inch deep into the two bottom bolt hole in the block. Dual purpose; easy alignment and of course once the trans is on them you can slip a nut right behind it and pull it to the motor effortlessly.

This gets easier every time.

I'll get pics of final install tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
What exactly is flashing? If I stomp it from dead stop it jumps to 24-2600 before it engages the input shaft. Other than that it has normal stall at normal driving.
 
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