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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Falcon ran smooth at idle and once in gear when cold. Would go in and out of all gears, no problem. After driving 10 miles and getting warm it would die when put in gear, especially reverse. Once restarted it would run rough. Thought I had a carb problem.

Bought a new carb and installed it. Falcon ran like a singer sewing machine. Thought I had my problem wipped. Drove it 10 or so miles and got it warmed up. Put it through the gears. No problem dying and more. Drove a couple miles turned off the engine. Started it up after going into a store and it ran rough. Stepped on the gas and it died. Died 4 more times before I got it home. About every time I gave it any gas.

I'm thinking vapor lock at this point. Thoughts on what my problem could be? Any help much appreciated.

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1963 Ford Falcon Futura Convertible, 6 cylinder (170, 2.8L), FordOMatic Transmission
 

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I had a similar prob... I put on a new fuel pump and it solved the problem, I think it was vapor lock... the pump couldn't pull the fuel through it
 

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or it could be related to your other thread on the tranny fluid going through the intake. the 200 I6 i had in my 79 fairmont did that when my modulator was shot. HUGE clouds of white smoke would fill the intersections when i came to a stop. shifted like crap, missing all over the place...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The fuel pump was one of the first things that got replaced when we started trying to resurrect the falcon. However, the replacement fuel pump had the inlet and outlet diagonal to each other rather than straight across like the orig. This made the fuel line (from the tank) compress a little as it went the other gas line (the one going to the carb). We adjusted it a bit hoping that we could prevent any restriction in the line. Haven't tested since this modification, but I'm not holding my breath. Feels like something else.

Attached is a photo showing diagonally placed inlet and outlet on replacement fuel pump.
 

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The fuel pump was one of the first things that got replaced when we started trying to resurrect the falcon. However, the replacement fuel pump had the inlet and outlet diagonal to each other rather than straight across like the orig. This made the fuel line (from the tank) compress a little as it went the other gas line (the one going to the carb). We adjusted it a bit hoping that we could prevent any restriction in the line. Haven't tested since this modification, but I'm not holding my breath. Feels like something else.

Attached is a photo showing diagonally placed inlet and outlet on replacement fuel pump.
again, see my above post
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll be ordering a new fuel sender gasket and retaining ring tomorrow. Gas is leaking out of the sending unit hole in the tank. (Took the gas tank out and had it cleaned at a radiator shop. It had what looked like coffee grounds in the tank.) The car is at my Dad's now, out of town. When this stuff arrives hopefully before the weekend we'll dip into the possible vapor lock and white smoke issue(s). I've drained the tank more times than I can count, trying to figure out the leak. I'm hoping that the radiator shop didn't fracture the area on the tank where the sender unit goes, when they took it apart to clean it. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the gasket from FalconParts.com works out. Prior to that I was using "O" rings that I had found that were the same size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
We'll probably start in on the gas tank and the tranny first. Hopefully we'll kill to birds with one stone (symptoms in this thread and the other about the tranny).

I appreciate all your input! I keep posting to let you know how it goes.
 

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Vent tube comes out of th tank and on the non-station wagons can be seen inside the trunk (the steeel tube at the passenger's side rear).

Furst thing that came to my mind was exactally what you found in the tank: CRUD. The car is a "few" years old and the inside of the tank rusts too.

It is common for the crud to clog the small filter at the end of the pick up tube when the car is running. The engine will run out of gas.

Then as the car sits the crud drops away from the filter and the engine once again gets gas. Cycle repeats until the tank is cleaned of crud.

Make certain you BLOW OUT THE FUEL LINES (both ends of the line DETACHED from the system). I always install a "see thru" inline filter in the engine compartment to see if I am getting fuel to the pump/if there is foreign material in the gas).

I stongly suggst sealing the tank with a gas tank sealing compound. Some radiator shops carry the various brands, talk to an aircraft mechanic at the local airport, or look at catalogs from Eastwood, etc.

This seals the rust and small particles of steel that break off of the tank's surfaces.

Been there, done that! Know the feeling of the engine stopping in heavy freeway traffic only to restart and go a few more miles minutes later. Be thankful the Falcon is not electronic with a tank mounted fuel pump when it comes to rust clogging the filter screen, that's my current "been there...".
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
We checked the line going from the modulator to manifold. It was full of transmission fluid. Blew if out with compressed air. Replaced the modulator valve. It was a bear. Had to cut a box end wrench in half to get it to fit in the limited work space. Took the pan off. Put a drain plug in it. Cut a gasket. Put Humpty back together. Transmission fluid reads full on the dipstick. No more smoking. That problem appears solved. Seems to shift a bit smoother now.

Replacing the the modulator didn't seem to have any affect on the dying once warmed up. I was hoping to kill two birds with one stone. After warmed up it dies about 1/3 of the time when put in reverse. Let it cool and it runs fine again. Dies sometimes while in gear. Seems to run smooth until it dies. No missing out, etc.

Thoughts other than putting in an inline filter right before the carb? This is sounding like the next approach. Figured I'd start by taking off the fuel filter at the pump and see what there is to see there.
 

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When it warms up, does the choke open all the way?
 

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If the fuel filter that is in the cannister on the pump is clogged that will give you the problem.
If my brain is right the Ford # is C4AZ 9365 B.
While you have the sending unit out of the tank check the float on the sender.
If it looks like it's even showing any signs of leakage where it is solderred together.
Replace it with a new one FORD # COAZ 9202 B again if my brain is working:(
 

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This may be a reach,but have you checked the float level.If the level is to high,the fuel will percolate like a coffee pot and bleed down the throat.This usually caused hard starting when hot.When you get the symtom remove the air cleaner and check for droplets coming out of the jets.It's just a thought.
 
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