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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I changed the pads and rotors last before it sat there over a six months.I drive it a few miles a week (20 to 30).2 month ago it made a grinding noise and barely came to stop coming out of plaza.I took it to back roads (no traffic there) late that day and drove for a while and test the brakes ,nothing.Until yesterday turning into a plaza and same thing happened(lucky me nobody works around there these days) I slowly drove home and happened twice till I made it home.Today I checked the pads and rotors ,they look good beside the rust around the rotors (not the pad section).The reservoir fluid is 1/4 inch low.Should take it apart the calipers too.? I have replace the emergency brakes a year ago too.My guess is front caliper or bad master cylinder.Sorry for long story I did not want to leave anything out.ty
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Did you try looking at the brake backing plate?
Also look for you emergency brake cable touching the rim
I did and they look normal.Maybe I didn't explain it right.I don't hear any noise when I am driving only these 2 incidents while I am using the brakes.Whenever I am getting in and out of a place,or maybe because of turning in and out.
 

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Grinding noise from the brakes or brake area ..... I assume front and you did not state specifically.

The cause for any sound coming from front brakes would be pad to rotor contact. Those items are the only items that make contact in the brake system up front. (Wheel bearings would be a non-braking item.) Since the sound is intermittent, it would not be unheard of for the pads to take in some dust or dirt and cause a sound. Humidity or lack of humidity or changes in humidity can have impact as well. Different types of friction material can make a difference in braking sounds over time and different conditions. Periodic blowing out the calipers with compressed air may help. Keeping the caliper slides lubricated can help with some braking sounds as well.

As brake friction material wear the level in the master cylinder will drop. Topping up the fluid from time to time is normal maintenance. Another maintenance is flushing brake fluid out of the system every 5 years or so. However not doing that will not create brake sounds. In addition replacing the mater cylinder or calipers does not fix braking sounds from the front of the vehicle.

What pad material did you use?
Semi-metallic
Ceramic
Or something else?

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
There is no grinding noise at all when I am driving and the truck brakes fine ,I really don't know front or rear.I heard the noise only those couple of times ,second time happened at least 3 times till I made it home.The grinding noise comes when I try to stop.When I checked the pads ,they were plenty dust around caliper piston (you are right).I think I purchased the wrong type of pads(they probably are for european cars).They may not be strong enough for trucks.
This the brand:
- Bendix Premium Copper Free CFC702K1 Ceramic Brake Pad (with Installation Hardware Front), Black and rear.
I should have got Hawk Performance HB299P.650 SuperDuty Brake Pad.I have bleed the brake after installing pads and after replacing the master cylinder(about 4 years ago). Everytime this happens the truck having a hard time to stop ,it slides forward and the sound is loud.That was the point I was trying to explain.
 

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That type of pad sounds correct, I believe ceramic pads are spec'd for the Expedition at least on the 08. But they also require an effort to seat them, what I do is run the vehicle up to speed say 45 then bring it down to a stop firmly but not abruptly. Do this three times and your pads will be more effective., it sounds like your just cleaning the rust off the rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
That type of pad sounds correct, I believe ceramic pads are spec'd for the Expedition at least on the 08. But they also require an effort to seat them, what I do is run the vehicle up to speed say 45 then bring it down to a stop firmly but not abruptly. Do this three times and your pads will be more effective., it sounds like your just cleaning the rust off the rotors.
I always do that after installing new brakes(for last 10 years or more),I have changed the pads over two years ago(I got them from amazon) and did not have a problem till now.They are just little too soft for expedition.ty
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I did check the both rear brakes and put it back.Air blow the dust(that was great) and pads look good.I will upload some pictures.I took the caliper off the front passenger and the top guide inside the boot was stock.I had to pull it out with force.The lower one was ok.Now the worst part,The 18mm bolts on bracket are dead frozen I tried it with pipe too no luck.I put some pb penetrating on them.Lets hope they come out tomorrow.
47640

The front pads looked the same,as you can see dust in middle.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Can I use torch to heat those 18mm bolts,they are not moving at all.I will replace them with new ones(auto zone 4.00)
 

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You can use a torch. If the caliper is off and you are talking about the caliper mount to the steering knuckle you should be OK. No rubber pieces in there. If you do use a torch heat up the bolt and then spray with oil. The oil will be sucked in as the bolt cools. And may take a lot of oil sprayed in there.

A oxy/ace torch is rather radical move. Being careful NOT to heat up anything else I would suggest a 6 point socket or 12 point if the bolt head is 12. Use 1/2 drive socket set with a snug socket that matches the number of sides.
Or get a combination wrench, and hit the end of the wrench with a hammer. The shock of the hammer impacts generally will loosen. This is a slow speed impact wrench.

Using a torch would be the last result.

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Discussion Starter #19
The air impact wrench was weak(It is,isn't it?) but it shook it a little enough.With breaker bar and much longer pipe I got them finally.But man I am getting old,it is going to take a week to pain go away,:LOL:.Action,what kind oil would be good if I used the torch?
Back to brake subject soon.Will any of these the bolts or guide stock in caliper affect on caliper doing its' job?
By the way ,using the hammer did not work last night.For these type job ,how much power should a air impact wrench have?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I did cleaned the whole thing and when I start putting the back:
The top boots and guide pin went in easy with little help of napa brake grease.The bottom one guide pin does not slide in easy at all ,it goes in with a lots of force.I exchange it with top one same,it is the hole not the guide pin.Could that be the problem with my brakes?
They should slide left and right easy but this one does not move at all.
47641
 
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