Ford Automobiles banner

21 - 39 of 39 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,168 Posts
Any thin oil for that usage. Penetrating oil when using heat. Much of the oil will be burned off. The idea is to allow the cooling part to suck in some oil. Does create a lot of smoke. The amount of heat does not have to be great. The idea is to expand and contract the two metal pieces and get them to separate. Getting oil in there is part of the process as well.

Typically an air impact will have less power than a hammer. However a continued hammering with the impact will deliver shock to the fastener. That shock on a repeated basis may deliver the necessary break up of the union of the pieces.

Make sure the re-installation is very clean. Debris of any type make may the re-install less accurate using the torque wrench and the removal difficult as well.

The caliper rides or floats on that mount. With the mount more than securely attached, those stuck bolts are not the issue.

Front braking sound issues come from -
Dust and/or rust
The type of friction material used
The type or lack there of - anti-squeal brake grease
The inability of the caliper to move or float as the friction material wears

Action
 
  • Like
Reactions: scrambledlife

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,168 Posts
I forgot to send the above post some hours ago.

The inability of the caliper to move or slide is an issue. As the brake material wears the caliper has to move slightly to engage the rotor when the brakes are applied. If the slide or guide pin restricts that movement, then YES that is an issue that can cause excessive brake noise. And it will show up as intermittent before it is an all the time issue.

Lack of caliper movement is a problem.

Action
 
  • Like
Reactions: scrambledlife

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,168 Posts
If it were me -

If it was a tight fit and it is supposed to slide easily AND did at one time, I would use crocus cloth.
I have what is left of a 50' roll that may last the rest of my life time at the rate I am using it.
I would get a small section of cloth rolled up and into the hole for a pass or two. Same for the pin. With the goal of removing what ever corrosion needed to get the fit back to where it was designed.

Air impact wrench .. I do not have a recommendation. I have one and rarely use it. Could not tell you what brand it is as I bought it a couple of decades ago and have not used it in years.

I am old and slow. Everything is removed by hand and installed by hand. Including wheels.
However I do have 3 torque wrenches. One bar wrench and two click wrenches. I use those all the time!

I have a upper A arm job coming up to remove from the right side of my SUV. The boot is split on the ball joint. This job will be done later when the outside temps are in the 70s. Likely next month. I have never had the upper a arm off. But I have replaced both of the the struts in front. The bolt that goes through the bottom of the strut has a torque value north of 120 pounds. I had to go to a fast moving parts store and "rent" a 3/4" drive wrench set because my 1/2" set did not get it. Then I put a pipe on that. It worked OK but was definitely an adult beverage kind of job.

Action
 
  • Like
Reactions: scrambledlife

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
If I sand the whole just enough to work it like upper one,it should be all right?
Why did the hole get tight?
I am glad we passed on air impact one.Once in a blue moon I will need it.A few years ago I replaced the pitman arm and that was a challenge.I used 6 or more feet pipe and 3 turn did it.Same time I replaced all the upper arms and the rest one time and boy that hurt.
I work on the hole tomorrow,let you know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,336 Posts
Probably is your problem
Ask Napa if they have a loaded caliper
That would have all the parts you need
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,168 Posts
Why did the hole get tight?
Corrosion on pin or in hole.
And you might inspect before getting in there.

The task is to remove debris or anything that is not designed to be there and not remove metal.

Goldilocks. Not too much and not too little. Just right

Action
 
  • Like
Reactions: scrambledlife

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
Corrosion on pin or in hole.
And you might inspect before getting in there.

The task is to remove debris or anything that is not designed to be there and not remove metal.

Goldilocks. Not too much and not too little. Just right

Action
Thanks for reminding this,I had all wrong:oops:.Now I got it.(y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Corrosion on pin or in hole.
And you might inspect before getting in there.

The task is to remove debris or anything that is not designed to be there and not remove metal.

Goldilocks. Not too much and not too little. Just right

Action
I did like you said cleaned them good and checked it real good,it was a little dirty.It moved just a little more better but I still was having a hard time to move it,even put a little more brake grease after cleaning real good the pin guide itself.
I order the caliper from napa(if they can find one:rolleyes:).I let you know as soon as I finished them.🤞
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
536 Posts
How did you compress the pistons??
Sounds like you are onto the problem with the right, front caliper now.

I would also replace all 3 rubber, flex hoses at this time too, if they are the originals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
How did you compress the pistons??
Sounds like you are onto the problem with the right, front caliper now.

I would also replace all 3 rubber, flex hoses at this time too, if they are the originals.
I do use this tool(I had it for about 10 or more years) and I took a picture with the old caliper that you see.After hand tied them I using socket.I turn them couple of turns on each till piston are set.
You are right on right caliper issue and like I said above pin guide would not move so I replace the caliper from napa.
I did not understand (replace all 3 rubber, flex hoses) if you could explain it a little more I will be glad to replace them.
47698
47699
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,336 Posts
He is talking about he rubber brake hoses
Some times they look good from the out side
but separate inside blocking the flow of fluid
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,168 Posts
One for each front caliper
And one for a solid rear axle

Not sure that year Expedition has a solid or one piece axle. My Navigator (The Lincoln twin to the Ford) has an independent rear suspension so there are two brakes hoses in the back because of design.

Action
 
  • Like
Reactions: scrambledlife

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
I replace the right caliper and since my points was (y)and kindness the manager I went on and replace the left one too(I had that from adv,,,,)for good price I had to exchange it 3 times).I bleed them all 4 twice.
They good but not that good.The hissing was high under the booster but it seems like hissing way more than before.
I think I have to bleed them again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,336 Posts
If you have a hissing coming from the brake booster
Check the hose and rubber grommet on the booster vacuum for leaks
 
21 - 39 of 39 Posts
Top