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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am currently trying to help a friend over the phone in another state on their car issue. Right now the engine was running rough and they put in high octane with a can of octane boost and now the engine is overheating at stop lights. The heater will not blow hot air and the engine fan is visually working. I am thinking the thermostat mabey? The check engine light has already been on for quite a while now but since autozone doesn't do free code checking anymore how do I go about checking manually? Also how do you bleed the thermostat on the 2001 ranger 6 cyl engine? Is it self bleeding? Thank you
 

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The check engine light has already been on for quite a while now but since autozone doesn't do free code checking anymore how do I go about checking manually?
Any vehicle with OBD-II (IIRC, anything built after 1996-97) requires a code scanner.

At least one of the major auto parts store should still do free code scans.
 

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advance does it for sure. autozone got into too much trouble for illegally clearing unfixed codes...
 

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Lee Meyles often advertises that they also pull codes for free. Yeah wiz, they had to standardize to OBD-2 in 1996.

You might suggest to your friend to buy a code scanner. They came down in price and he can probalbly get one for about $50 now.

You might suggest that your friend post directly to this site so that we may all be of assistance.

Did he check the coolent level? I suspect that it is low, that is more likely than a stuck thermostat, in that he has no heat.

He might check for vacuum leaks. That is easy enough to do and does not require any special equipment.
 

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what kind of flow it the coolant going through? there is the possibility of a blocked heater core, but not likely.
like poppy said, it's probably low coolant, i had that problem in a couple of cars...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yep it was low coolant due to cracked radiator. New radiator is in but still has the engine bucking and wanting to stall problem that I believe may be due to an oxygen sensor. Last year my friend had the code checked at autozone and it came up as o2 sensor, but they just cleared the fault and it came right back. I guess the next logical step would be to check for vacuum leaks. What do you guys think?
 

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sounds good to me!:thumbsup:
 

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Did this missing start in conjunction with an overheating issue?

Perhaps a blown head gasket.
Look for water in the oil. (gets creamy)
exhaust gases in the coolent (there is a litmus test for it. and you might be able to smell it)
compression test.
leak down test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Did this missing start in conjunction with an overheating issue?

Perhaps a blown head gasket.
Look for water in the oil. (gets creamy)
exhaust gases in the coolent (there is a litmus test for it. and you might be able to smell it)
compression test.
leak down test.
No this was going on for almost a year before the overheating became an issue. My friend tells me its bucking and wanting to stall like at stop lights, sometimes its bad and most times its not too bad. I can say that I have seen it at idle and after about 1 minute after cold starting when the revs go back to idle the idle seems to dip for few seconds then go back up. This will continue to happen anywhere from 5-10 minutes and the engine will finally stall. I'm sure it's not a blown head gasket, no signs of that. I'm thinking mabey a vacuum leak could have tripped the O2 sensor fault, also causing this reving/stall problem? What do you think?
 

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Grizz,
Vacuum leak was my first suggestion, of things to check for.

Irratic idle may also be caused by a dirty sticky IAC.

Have you suggested he get codes pulled or buy a scanner?

Howto locate a vacuum leak
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/forum/engine-drivetrain/94-howto-how-locate-vacuum-leak.html#post423
HowTo check your IAC
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/for...lean-your-idle-air-control-valve-iac-iab.html

How many miles since the spark plugs were changed? BTW.. if he has had a miss due to no spark for a year his catalytic converter is shot and that would be why he is getting notification from the O2 sensor.
 

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If your friend has been driving the vehicle for a year with a bad O-2 sensor he may have a blocked catylitic converter. When you get an O-2 sensor code the computer goes into a RICH MIXTURE mode because the computer is not getting fuel air mixture information from the O-2 sensor. Running rich for a year will plug the catylitic converter, which will cause poor performance, stalling, and overheating due to the back pressure. A good muffler shop can easily tell you if you have a blocked cat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Ok so I found the vacuum leak but I need to know what the part is called and if I can get this part at Napa or should I get this at the dealer? It is the big rubber elbow hose coming from the front of the intake manifold (right behind the throttle body) and wraps around towards the back of the manifold, there is a smaller hose right under it that goes off to the passenger side of the engine bay, and another small hose above it going off to the back of the manifold. I believe this elbow hose is for the PCV system but not really sure, I couldn't find the rubber elbow online
 

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On my 3.8 windstar, I had to replace that rubber elbow, and couldn't find one locally, so I just got a piece of tubing about 10 -12 inches long (that's just a guess) and I made a big loop with it 360 + 90 degrees = 450 degrees. It works fine.
 
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