[D.Acker]

From what I can tell the 95 3.8L requires a slightly different process and hte 99+ is a lot different (mainly due to the design of air plenum etc). The work outlined below was performed on a 98. While I tried to be as thorough as possible, I may have missed something while I was working. Please let me know if you see something that is incorrect or just does not make sense. Any missing pictures I will try to put up in the next couple days.

Parts needed:

IMRC (1 or 2) depending on your situation
Bolt isolators (12) (Ford P/N F68Z-9S479-A
Air plenum gaskets (6) (Ford P/N F68z-9H466-CB)

Tools needed:

8mm socket with ext (air plenum and IMRC bolts)
10m, socket (throttle body bolts)
Flat head screw driver
Pliers

Misc

Air Plenum torque specs 71-106 in-lbs

Disconnect battery

Remove upper and lower cowls

Disconnect electrical connections from Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF from this point) and IAC

Disconnect PCV tube from top of Air Plenum (referred to as AP from this point)

Remove air intake accordion tube by loosening the screws on the hose clamps

Disconnect passenger side of air cleaner box(as if you were replacing the air filter), set to side (note MAF is connected to this)

Remove throttle cable bracket to gain access to bottom TB bolt (8mm)

Remove TB bolts (10mm)(2 bolts and 2 nuts, diagonal from each other)(sorry I only got a pic of the top for some reason)

Remove Air Plenum bolts in a reverse order (8mm) (12 to 1)

Disconnect electrical connectors and vac lines from back of AP, you will have disconnect the wire\vac line harness from the back of the plenum by lifting it up (held on by those plastic trim rivet things)

Remove the PCV vent hose from back of AP (sorry no pic, large hose you can’t miss it) using your pliers to release the clamp and slide it back on the hose

Carefully lift AP off and out of vehicle (note I did not completely remove the plenum from the vehicle, mainly because of a couple vac lines that didn’t want to come off the back). Completely removing the AP will make getting the bolt isolators and old gaskets out easier, though it wasn’t hard removing\replacing them with the AP in the vehicle still

Remove the vac line from the top and the electrical connector from the side of the IMRC (note the IMRC labeled in the pic is Bank 1)

(img courtesty of Poppy)

Disconnect IMRC actuator arm from the butterfly valve

Remove the 2 IMRC bolts (8mm)(removing the alternator will make this easier (for some reason I don’t have a pic of this right now, I’ll try to get one though)).

Remove IMRC


Reverse all steps to put everything back together (make sure to reconnect the IMRC actuator arm to the butterfly valve using a new bushing (I found it easiest to place the bushing in first then insert the arm).


If there is anything you would like a picture of that I may have missed, don't hesitate to ask, I'll do my best to get one.

 

[Poppy]

Dave,
Great post!
I was getting some oil in my coolent so I pulled mine. I took a lot of pictures just in case I needed to reference them to see what went where, or how the throttle and cruise cables had to get hooked back up.

I left the cable bracket attached to the throttle body and removed those cables.
While you have the intake off AP you'll probably want to clean your EGR ports.

Here are the pictures that I took, if any are helpful and you want to edit them and intersperse them into your tutorial, have at it

Great job.

 

[Poppy]

Here are the last few

 

[D.Acker]

I see a couple pics I can use, that one of the IMRC from just beside the alternator is great! I wish I had thought about cleaning the EGR ports while I was in there, but it was a one track mind that day.:mad2:

Dave,
Great post!
I was getting some oil in my coolent so I pulled mine. I took a lot of pictures just in case I needed to reference them to see what went where, or how the throttle and cruise cables had to get hooked back up.

I left the cable bracket attached to the throttle body and removed that cables.
While you have the intake off AP you'll probably want to clean your EGR ports.

Here are the pictures that I took, if any are helpful and you want to edit them and intersperse them into your tutorial, have at it

Great job.

 

[Poppy]

We've seen 3.8s getting missfires because some of the ports are clogged. Then when the EGR valve is opened and dumps exhaust gases in, too much of it goes to the few cylinders that have open EGR ports, and it causes a missfire.

 

[Boghog]

From your pics I can see that the throttle body needs some cleaning.You might also want to check you PCV valve.

 

[printman31]

I just pulled my intake & will be cleaning it all up... It's a project I'm not happy doing..But your pics of the ports are similar to mine. I want that carbon out...

 

[printman31]

here's some pics of the cleaned up EGR ports & butterfly valves in the intake..

 

[roeboat109]

I have been pricing replacement imrc valves and they range from $70.00 to $350.00.Why is there so much variation in price? I have also read where the cheaper ones don't work on some windstars.That is a ridiculous difference even for a stock part.I took my off and inspected it and the rubber diaphram was completely junk.I don't suppose you can even buy replacement rubber diaphrams to install in these imrcs.I really you get what you pay for but why would a person replace with one that may not work? Why would a manufacturer even make one that has a reputation of not working?
These vans have mostly been salvaged and everyone knows it so why would you put that expensive a part for what is is? Does anyone know if someone makes one reasonably priced that does work? There should be a reasonble medium on quality and price.I've had my 98 windstar for 130,000 miles and i don't mind replacing some parts but this is ridiculous especially when there are 2 of them. Thanks for letting me go off.

 

[mark v]

I am going to be doing this once it warms up but I will be removing the intake too cause of an intermittent coolant leak.