Ford Automobiles banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
798 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
NOTE: Click on the links for pictures.

Replacing the spark plugs on a V-6 Escape isn't a really difficult job but it can be time consuming. Allow 2-4 hours depending on your skill level. The upper intake manifold must be removed to get to the rear plugs.

You will need 6 spark plugs (Motorcraft only) and 6 upper intake manifold gaskets.

1. Remove the plastic engine appearance cover over the top of the engine. It has 3, 8mm nuts that attach it to the valve cover studs.
2. Loosen the hose clamps that hold the intake tube to the throttle body and air filter housing. Pull the breather hose out of the intake tube and remove the tube.
3. Remove the throttle cable from the bracket by twisting the cable housing and then remove the cable from the throttle lever on the throttle body.
4. Remove the cruise control cable from the stud on the throttle lever by pulling it up. Don't try prying it off or it will break. Squeeze the tabs that hold the cruise control cable housing into the bracket and remove the cable from the bracket.
5. Remove the cable bracket from the upper intake manifold and tie the cables out of the way, probably to the cruise control servo.
6. Disconnect the TP (Throttle Position) sensor and IAC (Idle Air Control). Un-clip the vent hose from the bracket under the throttle body.
7. Remove the vacuum hose and vapor hose from the Vapor Management Valve. The vapor hose has 2 tabs that you carefully pry apart to remove it.
8. Remove the vacuum hose from the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve and the 2 hoses from the EGR solenoid as well as the connector on the solenoid. The connector has a tab you squeeze to release it.
9. Remove the EGR tube from the valve. It takes a 1 1/8" wrench.
10. Remove the vacuum hoses from the back of the intake manifold.
11. Un-clip the electrical connectors from the manifold. You don't have to disconnect the connectors.
12. Remove the nut that holds the wiring bracket to the EGR solenoid and position the wiring out of the way.
13. Tie the wiring and hoses out of the way.
14. Remove the 8 bolts that hold the upper intake manifold to the lower manifolds.
15. Stuff clean rags in the intake ports so nothing accidentally falls into them.
16. Unplug the connectors off the COPs (Coil On Plug). Each cylinder has it's own coil.
17. Remove the bolts and COPs.
18. It's a good idea to clean the rubber boot part of each COP. I like to clean them with WD40.
19. Blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air and remove the spark plugs.
20. Check the new spark plugs with a gaping tool to .052-.056". Do not adjust them, take them back for another plug. It is not advisable to gap platinum plugs. Damage can occur.
21. Install the new spark plugs. Use a small amount of anti-seize on the threads.
22. A good way to thread the new spark plugs into their holes is with a piece of rubber fuel line hose over the spark plug insulator. That way you can feel the threads starting and you'll be able to tell if they aren't screwing in easily. If they won't screw in using your fingers and a piece of hose, stop and see why not. Cross-threading spark plugs is no fun. Torque the spark plugs to 11 ft lbs or 132 lb in, use an Inch Pound torque wrench (per Boghog, next post below)
23. Boghog (below) also recommends replacing the COP boots and springs. It's short money and there is less risk of arcing. Lastly while it's all apart take a look at the PCV hose and replace if necessary. It's much easier to replace when your in this deep
24. Replace the intake manifold gaskets. They pop out with a small screwdriver or pick. Push the new ones into place.
25. Reinstall the manifold carefully. You need to set it pretty much straight down onto the lower manifolds to make sure that you don't damage the gaskets. Torque the manifold bolts to 89 in.lbs or 7.5 ft.lbs. Do not over tighten.
26. Use dielectric grease in the end of the rubber spark plug boots before the coils are assembled.
27. Reassemble the rest in the opposite order that you took it apart.
28. Try working the throttle a few times to make sure it returns properly etc.
29. Start the engine and listen for any unusual noises such as vacuum leaks.
30. Once you're all done you can congratulate yourself on a job well done and think about the $2-300 you just saved!
I have done this job more times than i care to admit but never took the time for pictures or a write-up. So..... This info was stolen from another Ford site I visit. Kudos to racerguy. Plagiarism is alive and well on the 'net
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,184 Posts
Great post,cudos to your friend for taking the time to document the process.I'd like to tag on a couple of extras if you don't mind.If you don't have access to a compressor a shop vac works great to clean out the plug wells.When torqueing the plugs,I would recommend a lbin torque wrench,and set it to 132 lbin.This range is more in the middle of the spring range and will give you more accurate torque.Most lbft torque wrenches start around 15-20 lbft and accurate torque isn't possible.Also for vehicle with some years behind then,i would recommend replacing the COP boots and springs.It's short money and there is less risk of arcing.Lastly while it's all apart take a look at the PCV hose and replace if necessary.It's much easier to replace when your in this deep.
Once again,great post Cuda.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
798 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Good points boghog. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
532 Posts
Thanks Cuda jim on the info for Escape V6 spark plug replacement info. I have an 09 which has accelerate by wire , so of course there is no linkage to deal with , but I think most of the info would still apply.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,352 Posts
Great Find Jim!
I think this is the first Escape sticky! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
798 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Great job!

Can you upload the photos here? Seen too many posts where the content was accidentally deleted off Photobucket.

Done...that took longer than I expected :mad2: the pictures belong to this site now :)

Question??, do we have place for tech articles picture storage? They are in one of my private albums but I may run out of storage space if they count against the total amount allowed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,352 Posts
Jim,
I am sure that RobDog, can increase your storage space as needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,592 Posts
You know this is a very good question, I never though of it that way.

PM robdog and he may be able to make a new folder or start a new area on the site to host this info. Maybe they can be migrated into some type of "Tech Info" storage?

Great question though!

Done...that took longer than I expected :mad2: the pictures belong to this site now :)

Question??, do we have place for tech articles picture storage? They are in one of my private albums but I may run out of storage space if they count against the total amount allowed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,352 Posts
Cuda,
My guess is that you have a lot of experience on other sites and might have a specific recommendation for how you think these things should be set up. Please feel free to share your thoughts with our admin RobDog. He has been very receptive to making this the best site on the net.

I know you know that, but I wanted to give you a shot in the arm :)
I'm glad you're with us. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,592 Posts
I talked to robdog and he can increase your storage. PM robdog so he knows who needs the added storage.

Sorry Poppy I was responding to the question and doing a few things at the time so by the time I hit the reply button I seen that you already responded to the question. I didnt mean to answer what you answered already.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
798 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, the other sites I visit have tech folders but it's really not necessary since Rob has the capability of expanding individual picture allotments.
The only reason I can see to have tech folders is for the disgruntled member that tosses all their pictures then leaves. BTW: I marked these pictures as private that way only me and the admins/mods can get access to them.

Thanks for all the support guys, you don't know how much it means to have 'help' in these forums. Some of the other sites are...well, not very pro-active, they just let things fester then boom, it's gone or at the very least contributing members just leave. Ford-Forums is a good exapmle of what can go wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
798 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
They are working for me. I don't think there is a restriction for new members. Our Admin, Robdog, will need to chime in here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
798 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I just logged out and you are right, the pictures don't show up.
I just made the album into "public" vs. "private"....see if that helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
I'll be jumping into my '02 here real soon, so if anyone can think of any photos that *should* be taken, speak now, and I'll do my best!

GREAT post!

Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
I'll be jumping into my '02 here real soon, so if anyone can think of any photos that *should* be taken, speak now, and I'll do my best!

GREAT post!

Joe
Joe,
While you have the upper intake off, you should have better access to the PCV valve. If you don't mind walking through how to replace it and posting that, I think it would be helpful to a lot of people.

Wes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
I had mine apart already... Saturday was my one and only shot to change the COP I suspected was bad... 4 of them had cracks and ended up being replaced.

My only variance from the posted instructions was that I left the connectors and hoses intact for the EGR and solenoid. I did loosen the riser to the EGR, but it was difficult going with little room to work with. I found that a minor twist to the intake as I lifted it off the engine allowed me to slide the EGR out of it's cavity.

Removing the intake was actually an easy job compared to what I was suspecting.

Joe
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top