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Replacing the spark plugs on a V-6 Escape isn't a really difficult job but it can be time consuming. Allow 2-4 hours depending on your skill level. The upper intake manifold must be removed to get to the rear plugs.
You will need 6 spark plugs (Motorcraft only) and 6 upper intake manifold gaskets.
1. Remove the plastic engine appearance cover over the top of the engine. It has 3, 8mm nuts that attach it to the valve cover studs.
2. Loosen the hose clamps that hold the intake tube to the throttle body and air filter housing. Pull the breather hose out of the intake tube and remove the tube.
3. Remove the throttle cable from the bracket by twisting the cable housing and then remove the cable from the throttle lever on the throttle body.
4. Remove the cruise control cable from the stud on the throttle lever by pulling it up. Don't try prying it off or it will break. Squeeze the tabs that hold the cruise control cable housing into the bracket and remove the cable from the bracket.
5. Remove the cable bracket from the upper intake manifold and tie the cables out of the way, probably to the cruise control servo.
6. Disconnect the TP (Throttle Position) sensor and IAC (Idle Air Control). Un-clip the vent hose from the bracket under the throttle body.
7. Remove the vacuum hose and vapor hose from the Vapor Management Valve. The vapor hose has 2 tabs that you carefully pry apart to remove it.
8. Remove the vacuum hose from the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve and the 2 hoses from the EGR solenoid as well as the connector on the solenoid. The connector has a tab you squeeze to release it.
9. Remove the EGR tube from the valve. It takes a 1 1/8" wrench.
10. Remove the vacuum hoses from the back of the intake manifold.
11. Un-clip the electrical connectors from the manifold. You don't have to disconnect the connectors.
12. Remove the nut that holds the wiring bracket to the EGR solenoid and position the wiring out of the way.
13. Tie the wiring and hoses out of the way.
14. Remove the 8 bolts that hold the upper intake manifold to the lower manifolds.
15. Stuff clean rags in the intake ports so nothing accidentally falls into them.
16. Unplug the connectors off the COPs (Coil On Plug). Each cylinder has it's own coil.
17. Remove the bolts and COPs.
18. It's a good idea to clean the rubber boot part of each COP. I like to clean them with WD40.
19. Blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air and remove the spark plugs.
20. Check the new spark plugs with a gaping tool to .052-.056". Do not adjust them, take them back for another plug. It is not advisable to gap platinum plugs. Damage can occur.
21. Install the new spark plugs. Use a small amount of anti-seize on the threads.
22. A good way to thread the new spark plugs into their holes is with a piece of rubber fuel line hose over the spark plug insulator. That way you can feel the threads starting and you'll be able to tell if they aren't screwing in easily. If they won't screw in using your fingers and a piece of hose, stop and see why not. Cross-threading spark plugs is no fun. Torque the spark plugs to 11 ft lbs or 132 lb in, use an Inch Pound torque wrench (per Boghog, next post below)
23. Boghog (below) also recommends replacing the COP boots and springs. It's short money and there is less risk of arcing. Lastly while it's all apart take a look at the PCV hose and replace if necessary. It's much easier to replace when your in this deep
24. Replace the intake manifold gaskets. They pop out with a small screwdriver or pick. Push the new ones into place.
25. Reinstall the manifold carefully. You need to set it pretty much straight down onto the lower manifolds to make sure that you don't damage the gaskets. Torque the manifold bolts to 89 in.lbs or 7.5 ft.lbs. Do not over tighten.
26. Use dielectric grease in the end of the rubber spark plug boots before the coils are assembled.
27. Reassemble the rest in the opposite order that you took it apart.
28. Try working the throttle a few times to make sure it returns properly etc.
29. Start the engine and listen for any unusual noises such as vacuum leaks.
30. Once you're all done you can congratulate yourself on a job well done and think about the $2-300 you just saved!
I have done this job more times than i care to admit but never took the time for pictures or a write-up. So..... This info was stolen from another Ford site I visit. Kudos to racerguy. Plagiarism is alive and well on the 'net
Replacing the spark plugs on a V-6 Escape isn't a really difficult job but it can be time consuming. Allow 2-4 hours depending on your skill level. The upper intake manifold must be removed to get to the rear plugs.
You will need 6 spark plugs (Motorcraft only) and 6 upper intake manifold gaskets.
1. Remove the plastic engine appearance cover over the top of the engine. It has 3, 8mm nuts that attach it to the valve cover studs.
2. Loosen the hose clamps that hold the intake tube to the throttle body and air filter housing. Pull the breather hose out of the intake tube and remove the tube.
3. Remove the throttle cable from the bracket by twisting the cable housing and then remove the cable from the throttle lever on the throttle body.
4. Remove the cruise control cable from the stud on the throttle lever by pulling it up. Don't try prying it off or it will break. Squeeze the tabs that hold the cruise control cable housing into the bracket and remove the cable from the bracket.
5. Remove the cable bracket from the upper intake manifold and tie the cables out of the way, probably to the cruise control servo.
6. Disconnect the TP (Throttle Position) sensor and IAC (Idle Air Control). Un-clip the vent hose from the bracket under the throttle body.
7. Remove the vacuum hose and vapor hose from the Vapor Management Valve. The vapor hose has 2 tabs that you carefully pry apart to remove it.
8. Remove the vacuum hose from the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve and the 2 hoses from the EGR solenoid as well as the connector on the solenoid. The connector has a tab you squeeze to release it.
9. Remove the EGR tube from the valve. It takes a 1 1/8" wrench.
10. Remove the vacuum hoses from the back of the intake manifold.
11. Un-clip the electrical connectors from the manifold. You don't have to disconnect the connectors.
12. Remove the nut that holds the wiring bracket to the EGR solenoid and position the wiring out of the way.
13. Tie the wiring and hoses out of the way.
14. Remove the 8 bolts that hold the upper intake manifold to the lower manifolds.
15. Stuff clean rags in the intake ports so nothing accidentally falls into them.
16. Unplug the connectors off the COPs (Coil On Plug). Each cylinder has it's own coil.
17. Remove the bolts and COPs.
18. It's a good idea to clean the rubber boot part of each COP. I like to clean them with WD40.
19. Blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air and remove the spark plugs.
20. Check the new spark plugs with a gaping tool to .052-.056". Do not adjust them, take them back for another plug. It is not advisable to gap platinum plugs. Damage can occur.
21. Install the new spark plugs. Use a small amount of anti-seize on the threads.
22. A good way to thread the new spark plugs into their holes is with a piece of rubber fuel line hose over the spark plug insulator. That way you can feel the threads starting and you'll be able to tell if they aren't screwing in easily. If they won't screw in using your fingers and a piece of hose, stop and see why not. Cross-threading spark plugs is no fun. Torque the spark plugs to 11 ft lbs or 132 lb in, use an Inch Pound torque wrench (per Boghog, next post below)
23. Boghog (below) also recommends replacing the COP boots and springs. It's short money and there is less risk of arcing. Lastly while it's all apart take a look at the PCV hose and replace if necessary. It's much easier to replace when your in this deep
24. Replace the intake manifold gaskets. They pop out with a small screwdriver or pick. Push the new ones into place.
25. Reinstall the manifold carefully. You need to set it pretty much straight down onto the lower manifolds to make sure that you don't damage the gaskets. Torque the manifold bolts to 89 in.lbs or 7.5 ft.lbs. Do not over tighten.
26. Use dielectric grease in the end of the rubber spark plug boots before the coils are assembled.
27. Reassemble the rest in the opposite order that you took it apart.
28. Try working the throttle a few times to make sure it returns properly etc.
29. Start the engine and listen for any unusual noises such as vacuum leaks.
30. Once you're all done you can congratulate yourself on a job well done and think about the $2-300 you just saved!
I have done this job more times than i care to admit but never took the time for pictures or a write-up. So..... This info was stolen from another Ford site I visit. Kudos to racerguy. Plagiarism is alive and well on the 'net
