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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a new OEM ignition switch and cylinder for my '65 Fairlane. They came in the same package, but the cylinder was not already set into the switch.

How do I get the cylinder to lock into the switch? I put the "ACC-OFF-ON-START" indicator ring on the switch first, push the cylinder in, and match up the end with the inside of the switch. It sort of sets, but it tends to pop out whenever I turn the key or not catch the switch. Any help? This should be the same ignition for 63-65 Fairlanes, maybe more.
 

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Put the key in. Shove a paper clip into the small hole. While pushing on the paper clip and the cylinder turn it to the left I think it is. You'll feel it fall into place when you find the sweet spot. Then back to the right and pull the paper clip out. It's been a while so I can't remember exactly what direction to turn it but the paper clip is the trick.

LR
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Okay, I just pushed and prodded for an hour with three different paper clips, and I still have the same problem. The cylinder locks into the switch in the off position and sometimes the ACC position when I push hard enough. But as soon as I turn it towards the on position, it pops right back out.

What exactly am I looking for the paper clip to go into after I put it in the hole in the face of the cylinder? There are no holes or gaps in the switch for it to go into. I can feel it slide in and it goes flush with the bezel, but it just won't stay down.
 

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All you need is the large paper clip to push through the hole. You'll feel a spring tension against the paper clip and that tension will need to be held until you find the correct position. It's been a long while but my instincts are teling me that it's to the left. Try to remove your old one first. Maybe it needs to be on the accessory position to start. It's been a long time since I've done this but the paper clip is the key so to speak. It doesn't take a lot of pressure you just have to find where it wants to go. Hopefully someone can weigh in that has done this recently.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Turns out the simplest job I've ever had to do on this car is the most difficult. I'm going on two hours, 5 paperclips, and some blood later. I can see what's supposed to be happening, but it's not happening. I give up.

Will auto shops do this for me if I give them the parts? I wanted to avoid this at all costs, but I'm not going to waste the $45 I spent on this garbage.
 

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Just found this info at ebsco auto repair reference center. Maybe it will help? It's been a very long time since I've had to replace an old model switch also.

Ignition Switch and Lock Cylinder
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1961-67 Models
1: Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

2: Turn the ignition key to the accessory position. Slightly depress the pin in the lock face, turn the key counterclockwise, and pull the key and lock cylinder out of the switch assembly. If only the lock cylinder is to be replaced, proceed to Step 9.

3: Press in on the rear of the switch and rotate the switch 1⁄8 turn counterclockwise (as viewed from the terminal end). Remove the bezel, switch and spacer.

4: Remove the nut from the back of the ignition switch. Remove the accessory and gauge feed wires from the accessory terminal of the switch. Pull off the insulated plug from the rear of the switch.

5: If a new ignition switch is to be installed, insert a screwdriver into the lock opening of the ignition switch and turn the slot in the switch to a full counterclockwise position.

6: Connect the insulated plug with wires to the back of the ignition switch. Position the accessory and gauge wires onto the ignition switch stud and install the retaining nut.

7: Position the retainer on the switch with the open face away from the switch.

8: Place the switch and spacer to the switch opening and press the switch toward the instrument panel and install the bezel.

9: If a new lock cylinder is to be installed, insert the key in the cylinder and turn the key to the accessory position. Place the lock and key in the ignition switch, depress the pin slightly, and turn the key counterclockwise. Push the new lock cylinder into the switch. Turn the key to check the lock cylinder operation.

10: Connect the battery cable and check the ignition switch operation.
 

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Notice it always disconnect the battery ... i have barley ever done that!
 

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Thanks for the info, royesses. Printed it off for the how to file. It sounds like having the key in the accessory position is the solution to Hamburger's delimma.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Internet issues, hnnnggggg

It looks like someone juryrigged the cables that lead to my switch so that they work with the new one... anyone know where I can get that insulated plug that goes into the back of the switch?
 
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