[bighank]

Loose keyblade on Taurus X IKT remote/key The keyblade (metal) in the plastic remote/transponder key has become loose. It twisted as the steering wheel was torque locked. I to start the car and get home. Opened the cover and used a visegrip to reseat the keyblade to the straight position. The remote/transponder portion was loose at the top end where the blade exits but seems to be glued into the plastic housing. Did not try to pry it out as I didn't want to wreck the key altogether.

Can I pry out the remote/transponder packaged in the plastic that is partially unattached in my key? Can I then successfully reattach or make the keyblade solid with epoxy or other means?

See aftermarket remote/transponder SHELLS which contain a keyblade but not the remote or transponder chips. If I get one of these how do I successfully transfer the remote/transponder electronics from my existing key?

 

[Dominick]

You will probably have to see your dealer

 

[ZephyrEFI]

I think it's worth a try to fix it. And if it breaks, then you get a new one. Those things are wicked expensive, so if you can glue the blade back in there, great!

 

[Harri]

Don't wreck it until the key codes have been read, if you do it'll be expensive.

 

[DaveG71]

....

Can I pry out the remote/transponder packaged in the plastic that is partially unattached in my key? Can I then successfully reattach or make the keyblade solid with epoxy or other means?

See aftermarket remote/transponder SHELLS which contain a keyblade but not the remote or transponder chips. If I get one of these how do I successfully transfer the remote/transponder electronics from my existing key?

If the transponder/electronics still work and if the metal portion. the keyblade, still works in the ignition lock, I strongly suggest epoxy. Epoxy makes great ghetto cures. You need one with extra strength. JB Weld should work (NOT JB Kwik). Downside of strong epoxy is that it is slow-curing. NO epoxy that cures under 60 minutes will be strong enough.

A cheap spring clamp (like these: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-78-spring-clamp-set-69375.html) should hold the key so the keyblade is upright and the far end of the plastic is sitting on the work surface. Work the epoxy as much as possible into the plastic using a pin, working it up-and-down in the epoxy puddle to make sure the epoxy is flowing as far down into the plastic as possible. It won't compromise the electronics -- most tough-use circuit boards are already epoxy-coated.

IMPORTANT: I'm assuming there's no passage between the keyblade and the buttons on the remote. If the epoxy CAN run down through to the buttons, don't go this route. Such a passage is unlikely, but possibly you created one by twisting the keyblade.

 

[bighank]

Have another IKT ordered and will program it before attempting to fix the one with the loose blade. The electronics (buttons for keyless remote) are glued or cemented into the shell half and when the blade twisted it partially loosened the encapsulated electronics and buttons at the end of the key by the blade. This appears to be a separate part which is encapsulated in some epoxy or plastic like material which is different from the outer plastic shell. I could pry it out with a small screwdriver to expose the loose blade and see how the blade was actually bonded to the outer shell. Did not try to do this until I have an extra IKT programmed as you need at least 2 working IKTs to program another one.

I see some ads for IKT SHELLS on Amazon and other web sites. The IKT I ordered contains the entire electronics and is not a shell. If you do get just a SHELL I suppose you need to remove the cemented electronics from the old key.

Has anyone done this? What steps do you take? What attaches the metal keyblade to the outer plastic case or shell?