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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I heard this is the replacement site for "ford-forums.com" so here I am.

I have an 88 ford f150 4wd that I am trying to replace the front suspension parts on(ball joints, tie rods, drag links, adjusting sleeves, etc).

The truck is from the north so it has some rust on it...I had to grind the nut off the top ball joint but can seem to get to the bottom nut to even see if I can remove it! Is there a special tool to get in there to take off the nut? I can't seem to find an open end wrench big enough and it doesn't look like a socket would fit in there (and especially not my grinder).

Also, do the camber bushings come out easily or do they need to be pressed out? Thanks.
 

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The proper way to do that....and the only way I know is to remove the front axle shaft. You have to remove the spindle etc. Then you can get a socket in there to remove the lower nut. The camber bushings should come out but if you have rust they will not be easy. Nothing is easy with rust. Hope you have a good torch. Your going to need it.
 

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I did mine last summer, fortunately AutoZone had a tool loaner program where you leave a refundable deposit.

Like Canuck623 said, you'll need to pull your hubs and axels. I borrowed a hammer puller and attachment to the spindle to pull it off. Others have done the job without the hammer puller, but I can't imagine how.

You'll also need a torque wrench to reinstall.
 

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if you follow the advise from above, it should be easy. once you move the steering knucke around, the nut should be easy to see. i believe it should be either a 15/16 or 1". maybe up to 1 1/4...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The proper way to do that....and the only way I know is to remove the front axle shaft. You have to remove the spindle etc. Then you can get a socket in there to remove the lower nut. The camber bushings should come out but if you have rust they will not be easy. Nothing is easy with rust. Hope you have a good torch. Your going to need it.
I don't work on Fords much but wouldn't I have to go in the pumpkin and remove a c-clip to get the axle completely out? That would definitely give me a substantial amount of space but there has to be an easier way to remove the knuckle. I don't have a torch but have access to one if it comes down to that



I did mine last summer, fortunately AutoZone had a tool loaner program where you leave a refundable deposit.

Like Canuck623 said, you'll need to pull your hubs and axels. I borrowed a hammer puller and attachment to the spindle to pull it off. Others have done the job without the hammer puller, but I can't imagine how.

You'll also need a torque wrench to reinstall.
Yeah, I got rental tools from Advance. I got the spindle off without a slide hammer...probably not the easiest way but the cheaper way.

I have a torque wrench...hopefully I can even get to the reinstall stage haha




Broncozone front end stuff
Here's my story
"link"

Follow the link that miesk5 gave me in here for pictorial
"link"

additional tips. for installation. don't make the mistake I made.
"link"
I already have all the suspension parts. I wanted to go moog like everyone was saying to but I had to be a cheap a$$. I got some brand called "DLZ"? I am sure I will pay for it in the end but I'm living for the moment, I ain't living for the future.



if you follow the advise from above, it should be easy. once you move the steering knucke around, the nut should be easy to see. i believe it should be either a 15/16 or 1". maybe up to 1 1/4...
The measurement I got for my bottom ball joint nut was 1-3/16". I still don't see how I am going to have enough space to fit the socket and a wrench unless I get the axle shaft out. Or maybe I could



I was going to post pictures but "To be able to post links or images your post count must be 5 or greater". All my posts are on the other site haha
 

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If you look at the pictorial it states;
Step 7: Axle shafts

Remove axle shafts. This is done by simply pulling them out. On the driver's side it pulls right out of the 3rd member and on the pass side, only the outer shaft pulls right out.

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You don't have to open the pumpkin to pull the axle shafts.

Borrowing the tools from AZ can't be cheaper than free! All you do is leave a deposit, which you get back.
I borrowed the puller, adapter, and ball joint press.

To torque down the ball joints, you'll need to use a socket and torque wrench, so, there is no getting around it. You need to pull the axle shafts out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you look at the pictorial it states;
Step 7: Axle shafts

Remove axle shafts. This is done by simply pulling them out. On the driver's side it pulls right out of the 3rd member and on the pass side, only the outer shaft pulls right out.

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You don't have to open the pumpkin to pull the axle shafts.

Borrowing the tools from AZ can't be cheaper than free! All you do is leave a deposit, which you get back.
I borrowed the puller, adapter, and ball joint press.

To torque down the ball joints, you'll need to use a socket and torque wrench, so, there is no getting around it. You need to pull the axle shafts out.
Oh, I didn't know they pulled right out. I will try that right now. I just borrowed the press and adapters. And it is cheaper since I don't have the deposit money in the first place ha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Alright, I finally got the knuckle off with a lot of grinding and pounding.

But I have run into another problem. I am trying to remove the camber bushing to replace it. I cut into it a little bit when I was grinding the nut on the top ball joint and I am thinking about getting coil spacers so I want to get adjustable bushings.

Does the camber bushing press out like the ball joints or am I just not hitting it hard enough with the hammer. I don't want to hit it too hard and bend the axle housing or grind it too much.

Or should I just leave the current ones in? Here is a picture to show what one of them looks like in its current condition. I have looked up removal of these things and I can't really find a page that is clear or with pictures.
 

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If I remember correctly the camber bushings pop up.
They should be marked so that they go back in the same direction. They can go in two directions, each 180 degrees different from each other.
 

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If the camber bushing is original, it has a tab on it so it only goes in one way, you can't turn it. They come out through the top, but not easily with rust. Take it out and clean it up. If the alignment needs to be adjusted, you'll need an adjustable camber sleeve. You could grind the tab of the original or get a replacement.
As for getting the hub off without a slide hammer/puller... I use an old spindle nut, thread it back on and hammer on the nut with a 2.5lb hammer until I can wedge a chisel in behind the hub. Takes patience, but the slide hammer is MUCH easier.
Also, while the axle shafts are out, you might want to consider putting in greaseable u-joints. You see how much work is involved to replace them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I got both the hubs off without a slide hammer. I just took all the nuts off and knocked all the bolts out and hit it with a block of wood/hammer until I could get a flat head screw driver back there. The nuts on the other ball joints came off a lot easier but I can't get the knuckle off. I guess I just need an even bigger bfh
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just wanted to thank everyone for the help. I honestly do not think I could do it without you.

I finished replacing everything early in the day on Sunday. I got an alignment and I've driven about 50 miles since I put everything back together. The truck has not fallen apart so I guess I did everything correctly. The job was a lot easier than I expected it to be (that is even considering the fact that I had to grind the nuts off the old ball joints).

The only issue I can think of that I ran into is I couldn't get the top ball joint to press far enough into the knuckle to get the supplied snap ring on. I noticed that the top ball joint that I removed didn't have a snap ring either so I just left it out.

Anyways, I have rambled enough for tonight...darn adderall but I hope this thread will help someone else like it helped me.
 

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I'm glad it all worked out for you. You saved yourself a small bundle of cash!
 
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