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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I keep my '05 500 Limited in top shape. It has 105,489 miles and keeps on ticking. Every time I take it to have it smogged, the mechanics come back to me with a list of recommendations for replacment or repair. The time that they have the auto suggestes to me that they base these suggestions on the mileage of the auto instead of actual visual inspection. This last time, the mechanic came our with a list 5 minutes after pulling the car into the garage. Remove and Install Strut Assy, Remove and install Shocks, Wheel Alignment, Install new Belts, New Hoses and Clamps, Remove and Install new Battery, Replace spark plugs and tune-up. Including everything the bill would be $3300. I am of the old school, if it isn't broke, don't mess with it. I visually inspect the motor and parts about every month or so. I have no warning of any problems, the car drives like the day I purchased it, so should I be concerned?
 

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Most of those things are not like they were in the 80s and 90s. They last a long time.

I have a 06 Lincoln Navigator. Bought it with 110,000 miles and has 180,000 now.
Hoses are original. I changed the belt at 115k and kept the old one for a spare.
I have replaced the battery. But that was because the AZ heat killed it. If it is not dead why would you replace?

The owners manual has an interval for spark plugs and air filter. With 105K you are over due if the spark plugs have not been changed.
Coolant should be replaced based on age. I go 3 years
Same for automatic transmission fluid. 3 years
Brake fluid flushed out or bleed every 5 to 10 years
Replace the oxygen sensor every 100,000 miles
I do all of my own maintenance and it is not difficult. Bet you could do that too
Look at the maintenance schedule. There isn't a lot like there used to be

Shocks and struts, hmm you are in a car. If it rides good I would not change

Things I would add are -
Clean rubber door seals and other seals.
Wax exterior
polish the plastic head light

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. The plugs were changed when @101,000 my fuel rail started leaking at the sensor connection and found it was stripped. Replaced entire rail assy which included plugs. Purchased online and owner said there where approx 85,000 on the used rail assy. No way to prove that though. I do have to find a good polish for one headlight as it looks cloudy.
 

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Spark plugs are good for about 75,000 miles based on the manual. That is because the tips are very hard metal no longer steel. And they are more expensive. If your mechanic wants to change spark plugs after 5000 miles, it is time to change the mechanic not the spark plugs

I have a 5.4l 3V with a 75,000 mile interval for spark plug changes. Because of the spark plug design I change mine every 50,000 miles. And that design is very unique to the 5.4l 3V. No other engine has that design.

A "tune up" may be just an air filter change. Replacing that is pretty easy to do it yourself.
Check and top off battery water with distilled water. Don't replace it. Unless you are having starting issues.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I always believed that fuel consumpiton was a good indicator of bad plugs. I am still getting an average of 17.4mpg in city driving and 28-30mpg on highway travels. That seems to be the advertised limits of the 2005 Ford 500 with V6.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Okay, I have another question. Sometime ago, during a vehicle inspection, I was told I may have a fuel leak in the gas tank or fuel pump. I was told that the gas tank would have to be dropped. Later, I found that there is an access point under rear seat. Problem is how to remove rear seat. I can pull the front up but it will not pull out. Seems to be locked at right and left rear. Need help. Photo would be very helpful.
 

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The fuel pump is IN the tank.
If the fuel pump leaks you are not goin to know that because it is in the tank.

If there is an exterior fuel leak you will smell that.

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Seat removal - You Tube is a good source. Vid quality is not always the best.
At the moment I don't have time to wade through videos. Not sure if this one does the job.
Ford Taurus rear seat removal - Bing video

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks. I am guessing that there is a seal where the fuel pump assy is mounted. I know there is an access door under rear seat. I think that seal (gasket) is what is leaking. All the videos that I have been able to view all start when the rear seat is out already. I can unsnap my rear (front portion) and lift it up but it seems to be attached elsewhere (right and left of center) and I just can't figure out how to apply what pressure or action to completely remove it.
 

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Ask the people in the videos you have found the fuel pump replacement video.

I would replace all of the fluids if you have not by now- brake & power steering too. Fluids break down, then the parts suffer. Excessive heat/cold only adds to the premature wear.

Bounce test each corner of the 500 to see if the struts/ shocks are needing replacement. That said, OEM suspension parts (like these) really only last around 50k in my experience- and I am not talking about off roading either. Also inspect each of these for a liquid residue. These can also go bad from a seal leaking the gas/oils inside.

I would start asking for a before & after smog report too. Sounds like this shop is HEAVY on the mileage based maintenance too. After all, the auto industry IS a business. Upsales help the bottom line.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Ask the people in the videos you have found the fuel pump replacement video.

I would replace all of the fluids if you have not by now- brake & power steering too. Fluids break down, then the parts suffer. Excessive heat/cold only adds to the premature wear.

Bounce test each corner of the 500 to see if the struts/ shocks are needing replacement. That said, OEM suspension parts (like these) really only last around 50k in my experience- and I am not talking about off roading either. Also inspect each of these for a liquid residue. These can also go bad from a seal leaking the gas/oils inside.

I would start asking for a before & after smog report too. Sounds like this shop is HEAVY on the mileage based maintenance too. After all, the auto industry IS a business. Upsales help the bottom line.....
I have accessed the fuel pump assy under the rear seat and found that the fuel line connector is leaking. Can just that part be replaced?
 

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You should be able to get a repair line from one of the parts stores
It wwill not be a complete line
You will have to splice it
 

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The connector ends are replaceable. You will have to cut and splice in a connector end if that is the repair.
The ends come in 90 and 180 degree angles. May be 45 too.

Before you go there you might remove and inspect the existing connector end and see if it it not fully engaged. Or the engagement lock tab(s) are intact and fully locked in place.

If it is damaged the connector can be replaced without replacing the entire line.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The connector ends are replaceable. You will have to cut and splice in a connector end if that is the repair.
The ends come in 90 and 180 degree angles. May be 45 too.

Before you go there you might remove and inspect the existing connector end and see if it it not fully engaged. Or the engagement lock tab(s) are intact and fully locked in place.

If it is damaged the connector can be replaced without replacing the entire line.

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The fuel line can be removed without splicing correct? Just how to remove this connector is another question. I know you have to squeeze it somewhere or turn it slightly but I am having difficulty.
 

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Yes you can move the fuel line.

There are different connector ends.
Some need a tab moved. Some are squeezed. After that usually twisting before starting to remove is good too.

Can you post a picture of the connector end?

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I have not seen that type of connector before.

The fuel line is on the left (I think)
The fuel pump & sender wiring is in the center
The tank venting is on the right (I think)
All of those are engaged to the back side of the fuel pump

The blue arrows point to a sliding part of that connector. On the other side of the connector I bet there is something to pull or slide away from the connector to release the connector from the fitting.
The other line may be he same way and there is not enough light.

The red circle is the same kind of deal. The company is so obsessed with removeable connections staying connected they build connectors with locks if you will. As an example ....
The red circle is around a red lock. That lock has to be slid away from the connector (in this pic to the left) to allow the connector half to be released from the other half of the connector. When reinstalled the red lock needs to be shifted to the position shown to get full engagement.
I bet the fuel line connector is the same way. A lock piece has to be slid away to allow the fuel line connector to be removed from the fuel pump.

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