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Potentially looking to snag my first 65 galaxie convertible with a 289. Trying to make a father son project but a few things aren’t adding up and current owner doesn’t have any info so looking for some help deciphering numbers. Was last registered in 73 and been off road since so feel like numbers should match. It’s in rough shape but red, door plate says green and if I’m read exhaust mani has it as a 64. Couldn’t read casting on block in the garage. Would love some insight feedback
45968


45967
45966
 

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The warranty number of 5W65C276561 =

5 = 1965
W = Wayne Assembly plant
65 = Galaxie 500 2 door convertible
C = 289 4V Premium fuel
276561 = 176561st vehicle built at Wayne

Codes across the top
76A = Galaxie 500 2 door convertible Body type
R = Black exterior color
66 = Black vinyl interior trim
21F = June 21 (1965) very late build and the unit build number above aligns with that
23 = Philadelphia DSO or District Sale Office
1 = 3.00 axle ratio standard axle
6 = C-4 automatic transmission

All of these numbers are in the factory shop manual. Don;t bother with an aftermarket shop manual if you get the car.

 

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The numbers cast into the exhaust manifold (and any other part and every part was labeled in the beginning) is an engineering number. Not an actual part number. Ford is the only company that does this.
That engineering number is more of what it was designed for not actual application. And a number on an engine that will go into nearly any model. (Falcon, Fairlane, Mustang & Galaxie)

 

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Discussion Starter #5
The warranty number of 5W65C276561 =

5 = 1965
W = Wayne Assembly plant
65 = Galaxie 500 2 door convertible
C = 289 4V Premium fuel
276561 = 176561st vehicle built at Wayne

Codes across the top
76A = Galaxie 500 2 door convertible Body type
R = Black exterior color
66 = Black vinyl interior trim
21F = June 21 (1965) very late build and the unit build number above aligns with that
23 = Philadelphia DSO or District Sale Office
1 = 3.00 axle ratio standard axle
6 = C-4 automatic transmission

All of these numbers are in the factory shop manual. Don;t bother with an aftermarket shop manual if you get the car.
thanks soo much! The door plate makes sense except the color I had wrong. I know it’s not unheard of but seems odd to repaint after eight years. Just trying to nail down whether this has been pieces together and I’d engine use original. Only items I see missing are alternator and drive shaft... and a top :) but low miles and oddly enough fairly rust free
 

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Looks like the red was shot over the black.
Based on the condition of the paint and top it sat outside a lot.
The tires are special.

LOt's of work and a labor of lover for the right price.

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Looks like the red was shot over the black.
Based on the condition of the paint and top it sat outside a lot.
The tires are special.

LOt's of work and a labor of lover for the right price.
It’s possible on the color. Oddly enough it’s been in a garage for the last 50 years. Body looks ugly but pretty solid. Tons of work but not in any rush. Think I’m gonna keep the tires as is j/k
 

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First year for that generation
And it is missing other things like exterior trim which will be pricy and the air cleaner

Looking at it closer looks like some one started sanding the paint down to refinish. Top may be off for the same reason
Here is a good place for a new top
Tops only came in 2 maybe 3 colors. Any pieces of the old top?

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Discussion Starter #10
There are. Black top and boot is still there. What I’m really trying to nail down is whether engine is original. Any tips?
 

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First year for that generation
And it is missing other things like exterior trim which will be pricy and the air cleaner

Looking at it closer looks like some one started sanding the paint down to refinish. Top may be off for the same reason
Here is a good place for a new top
Tops only came in 2 maybe 3 colors. Any pieces of the old top?

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Also, Why am I seeing the R color code as ivy green and not black? Appreciate the help!
 

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The engine looks original from the only shot you have. Looking at the Ford mater parts illustration I guess 1965 260/289 was a little unique for crankcase venting. A picture of the top of the engine behind that carb would confirm that.

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Also, Why am I seeing the R color code as ivy green and not black? Appreciate the help!
Yikes I messed up there
I was on my lap top when I originally did that code decipher
A = Black
R = Dark Ivy Green Metallic

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The engine looks original from the only shot you have. Looking at the Ford mater parts illustration I guess 1965 260/289 was a little unique for crankcase venting. A picture of the top of the engine behind that carb would confirm that.
Thanks. I think it is as well can’t imagine someone switching it out after eight years. Here is a pic

45984
 

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Yikes I messed up there
I was on my lap top when I originally did that code decipher
A = Black
R = Dark Ivy Green Metallic

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No worries. Thanks! That’s why the color thing is throwing me off. Don’t see any green under the red
 

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Maybe that door was swapped in as a replacement at some point in it's life? The second character in the warranty number is an,"E", so what assembly plant was that? The engine has a 2V carb on it, so not the higher perf, 4V engine decoded initially. If it sat after eight years there likely shouldn't have been any reason to change the upper rad hose, which doesn't look an original piece to me. I'm guessing that engine is not the original and that there is more to the story of this car.

Does the dash VIN match the door plate? C4?? on the exhaust casting should indicate a '64 part casting and would be period correct for a 65. It just shouldn't have C6??, or later, date codes to be original. There is likely no vehicle serial number stamped on the engine block, so no matching of numbers in the Ford world, for the most part, as I understand it.
 

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Maybe that door was swapped in as a replacement at some point in it's life? The second character in the warranty number is an,"E", so what assembly plant was that? The engine has a 2V carb on it, so not the higher perf, 4V engine decoded initially. If it sat after eight years there likely shouldn't have been any reason to change the upper rad hose, which doesn't look an original piece to me. I'm guessing that engine is not the original and that there is more to the story of this car.

Does the dash VIN match the door plate? C4?? on the exhaust casting should indicate a '64 part casting and would be period correct for a 65. It just shouldn't have C6??, or later, date codes to be original. There is likely no vehicle serial number stamped on the engine block, so no matching of numbers in the Ford world, for the most part, as I understand it.
thanks so much! I think there is more to the story as well which is why I wanted some of this teams expert advice. It has the c4 in it but I forgot to look at the dash VIN
 

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I guess my eyes are getting bad
E assembly plant is Mahwah NJ
In addition I am using a Mercury data for the codes
For Mercury a C engine is a 289 4V
This Ford site states a C engine is a 289 2V

The serial number will be stamped on a metal tab under the hood and back by the cowl. Look just above the heater box or just above the master cylinder.
There won't be a dash VIN. That was a federal government requirement in the 1980s or later

The C-4 is a medium duty transmission that is generally behind straight six and the smallest small block Windsor V-8. 289/302 is the V-8 engines that got the C-4.

 

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Maybe that door was swapped in as a replacement at some point in it's life? The second character in the warranty number is an,"E", so what assembly plant was that? The engine has a 2V carb on it, so not the higher perf, 4V engine decoded initially. If it sat after eight years there likely shouldn't have been any reason to change the upper rad hose, which doesn't look an original piece to me. I'm guessing that engine is not the original and that there is more to the story of this car.

Does the dash VIN match the door plate? C4?? on the exhaust casting should indicate a '64 part casting and would be period correct for a 65. It just shouldn't have C6??, or later, date codes to be original. There is likely no vehicle serial number stamped on the engine block, so no matching of numbers in the Ford world, for the most part, as I understand it.
Agreed. "Numbers matching" can rarely be proven on Ford cars until at least 1968. IF the complete serial number (VIN) on the door tag matches elsewhere on the vehicle, then you could at least date code the engine short block and heads to determine close the casting dates are to the scheduled assembly date of the vehicle. But yes you need to crawl under under the car with a good flashlight and a rag. Date/period correct is the closest anyone can honestly say.

A poorly maintained (or just unlucky) 1965 car by 1973 could very well have had its engine replaced. Original radiator hoses were molded with smooth surfaces. It is NOT original.

My dad broke the first 390 in the car in my sig in '71; it still ran, but burned a quart of oil every 100 miles. Anyway, he bought a replacment block and heads in the summer of '72. I finally crawled under the car a couple of years ago to discover the replacment short block was cast in August of '62
.
Every old car has a story .. if you buy it, enjoy the process and be sure to get genuine OEM service manuals!
 
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