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Discussion Starter #1
This weekend did brake job on the 2005 E150 van I'm getting ready for camping when the virus allows. The passenger rear pads had uneven wear and the caliper was almost impossible to retract. I needed a C clamp with a prybar to seat it . Does this mean the caliper is ceased and needs replacing?
 

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The definition of seized is stuck and immovable.

Based on what you wrote, you did move the piston back into the caliper with the clamp. It may be possible the piston will stick in a position when the pad wears down. But that is going to be based on an answer to a question.

What condition was/is the brake fluid?

The maintenance for brake fluid is to flush out every 5 years I believe. That is because brake fluid pulls humidity out of the air. Humidity is water and water inside your bake system creates rust. Which can cause a piston to stick in a caliper.

And your location in CA the humidity is over 80%. If the E series has been in and around this area for all of it's life brake fluid flushing is highly recommended. Especially if the fluid is dark or black in color.

What color or condition is the brake fluid?


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This weekend did brake job on the 2005 E150 van I'm getting ready for camping when the virus allows. The passenger rear pads had uneven wear and the caliper was almost impossible to retract. I needed a C clamp with a prybar to seat it . Does this mean the caliper is ceased and needs replacing?
You would probably be better off buying a loaded caliper
From a place like auto zone or rock auto
You can get a reman rotor with pads for around 80 bucks exchange
If your pads are worn that is a good deal
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The definition of seized is stuck and immovable.

Based on what you wrote, you did move the piston back into the caliper with the clamp. It may be possible the piston will stick in a position when the pad wears down. But that is going to be based on an answer to a question.

What condition was/is the brake fluid?

The maintenance for brake fluid is to flush out every 5 years I believe. That is because brake fluid pulls humidity out of the air. Humidity is water and water inside your bake system creates rust. Which can cause a piston to stick in a caliper.

And your location in CA the humidity is over 80%. If the E series has been in and around this area for all of it's life brake fluid flushing is highly recommended. Especially if the fluid is dark or black in color.

What color or condition is the brake fluid?


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I am changing out the brake fluid today. The old is cloudy with green tinge. The other three wheels did not have caliper problems. Well see. Thanks
 
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If it's stiff, I usually pull the boot back on it to inspect it "before" you push it back in. The problem with a stiff caliper isn't that it won't apply the brakes as there's a ton of force, it's that the piston won't retract and can continue to hold pressure against the rotor. They only retract a few thousands of an inch but enough to prevent continuous wear.
After you have it back together, feel the wheel after a lengthy drive without a lot of braking and see if that wheel is hotter than the others. If it is, it's dragging and you'll want a new caliper. They're pretty cheap, not worth messing with.
 

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So I went ahead and replaced the caliper and changed out the brake fluid. It took half a gallon to run clean but brakes now responsive, smooth and quiet. Nearly got this van licked. My only o/s issues the soft suspension and "banging" and I'll update that post tomorrow.
 
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So I went ahead and replaced the caliper and changed out the brake fluid. It took half a gallon to run clean but brakes now responsive, smooth and quiet. Nearly got this van licked. My only o/s issues the soft suspension and "banging" and I'll update that post tomorrow.
Most likely the banging is wheel hop. I have this problem with my 63 Falcon. If I let the tires spin at all it sounds like someone under the car pounding on the floor with a sledge hammer.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I researched wheel hop and it looks like a hard acceleration high speed thing my symptoms on a rough road occur at 10 mph. Do you think it's wheel hop?
 

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Wheel hop occurs under harder acceleration such that the tire looses grip with the pavement. Kind of like wheel spin, except instead of the tire just spinning, the tire moves up and looses grip. Typically weak shocks can cause wheel hop. Sway bars may helps as well. But not accelerating so hard stops that.

If your are getting sounds at 10 MPH steady speed it is not wheel hop. But you still may have shocks that are too stiff or too weak.

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