Problem started 2 weeks ago. Three engine lights would come on when the truck malfunctioned. (1) Water in Fuel, (2) Wait to Start & (3) Service engine light. I've replaced the Injector pressure control sensor due to the fact there was oil seeping out of it. Once I unplugged that sensor all lights exstingished but the rig still stalled! I'm new to the deisel world but fairly mechanical. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Need HELP with my 01' Excur.7.3 deisel!
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All of those lights should come on every time you turn the key to run (not start). They will come on after the engine stalls too. If they are coming on before the engine stalls you have intermittent electrical problems. Does this happen when you hit a bump in the road? If so, something is loose or about ready to die.
Have you replaced the Cam Position Sensor (CPS), they are prone to intermittent trouble just like you describe. You might get one for free from the dealer if your VIN is still open to the re-call..otherwise they're about $25. Get it at the dealer, the aftermarket replacements are junk. Be sure to get an extra one to carry in the cab. They sometimes just fail with no warning.
Did you drain the fuel filter housing (Water in Fuel light). Look for the yellow handle lever on the side of the filter bowl. Turn it 90 degrees. Be sure to have a catch pan under the front of the engine, this is where the fuel will come out.
I ASSuME the CEL is on?? Get it scanned for codes even if it isn't. The scan tool needs to be compatible with your diesel, however the operator is the most important part of the equation. They need to monitor the PIDs while cranking and during normal operation and be able to know what they are looking at.
Have you replaced the Cam Position Sensor (CPS), they are prone to intermittent trouble just like you describe. You might get one for free from the dealer if your VIN is still open to the re-call..otherwise they're about $25. Get it at the dealer, the aftermarket replacements are junk. Be sure to get an extra one to carry in the cab. They sometimes just fail with no warning.
Did you drain the fuel filter housing (Water in Fuel light). Look for the yellow handle lever on the side of the filter bowl. Turn it 90 degrees. Be sure to have a catch pan under the front of the engine, this is where the fuel will come out.
I ASSuME the CEL is on?? Get it scanned for codes even if it isn't. The scan tool needs to be compatible with your diesel, however the operator is the most important part of the equation. They need to monitor the PIDs while cranking and during normal operation and be able to know what they are looking at.
Cuda, thanks but to no avail problem is still present. I've changed the CPS, IDM, IPC, and multiple relays. Whwn prob. first started it threw a code that had to do with the Injector drive module. So I replaced it. IPC was leaking oil out it, so I changed it. When I unplugged it all lights when away so I thought that was it. But I dont know now cause she won't start. When I turn the key on theres a noise that comes from the ABS pump. From inside the cab it sounds like a blow back sound. From out side the cab and my hand on ABS pump its like its spooling up, best way to describe it. It never done this until stall issue started. Well thanks 4 the help! Any other would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Stang
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Cuda_Jim,
I am NO help with diesel issues, but I am attaching 2 TSB's for reference - 1 is for a "Hard Start or No Start", the other is for "No Start - Fuel Gelling in Cold Weather" (I do realize the weather is nice now).
Is it at all possible that either of these TSB's could help resolve the issue StangGT01 is having?
I am NO help with diesel issues, but I am attaching 2 TSB's for reference - 1 is for a "Hard Start or No Start", the other is for "No Start - Fuel Gelling in Cold Weather" (I do realize the weather is nice now).
Is it at all possible that either of these TSB's could help resolve the issue StangGT01 is having?
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When you turn the key on do you get a "Wait To Start" light? Try disconnecting the fuel heater and see if it starts. The biggest reason for a no start in that engine is the crank sensor failure. If you got an EPC code that could mean a lot of things which include a high pressure oil leak in the heads. A simple test is to crank it over and spray some WD40 in the intake hose. If it trys to run on that the compression is ok. Make sure your batteries are fully charged and you are getting a good crank speed. Around 300 RPM.
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Have you checked all the fuses & relays under the hood. If the fuel heater blows it can take out the GPR and the starter relay. They are on the same fuse. 30A maxi IIRC.
You really need to get it on a scanner. Throwing parts at it can get expensive as you already know. The IDM had to set you back a bunch.
Are you sure it's the ABS module making the noise. The vacuum pump will come on every time the key is cycled if it has a small leak.
Is the starter energizing at all?
Do you get smoke from the tail pipe when it's spinning?
If it's rolling over OK then try crossing out the 2 large posts on the GPR for about 30-40 seconds. Jump in the truck an fire it up. If it starts the GPR is toast.
Be sure to do what Canuck says, Keep the batteries on a charger until this problem is resolved, it needs a lot of power to get going.
You really need to get it on a scanner. Throwing parts at it can get expensive as you already know. The IDM had to set you back a bunch.
Are you sure it's the ABS module making the noise. The vacuum pump will come on every time the key is cycled if it has a small leak.
Is the starter energizing at all?
Do you get smoke from the tail pipe when it's spinning?
If it's rolling over OK then try crossing out the 2 large posts on the GPR for about 30-40 seconds. Jump in the truck an fire it up. If it starts the GPR is toast.
Be sure to do what Canuck says, Keep the batteries on a charger until this problem is resolved, it needs a lot of power to get going.
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I agree Jim. Getting it on a good scanner is the first thing I would do. You can monitor ICP, CPS Fuel relay, voltage etc all while cranking. You need a minimum of 500 PSI on the ICP PID before it will start. A high pressure oil leak will show up on this PID. Or bad oil. First thing to verify is that you have two lights on before it cranks. You need to see the CEL and the Wait to Start light. Either of or both of them off with the key in run and you have a short or bad PCM. The fuel heater will short and shuts down the WTS light and can let the smoke out of the PCM.
Update: still no worky, work! Ok guys I mighr be a dumb &%@! so don't laugh. Cuda I'm not sure what CEL, PID, WTS and when you said to cross out the two large posts on the GPR. I did check to see if there was power to 2 the two connectors common to the GPM. Had power to the black connector but none to the green. So its startin to look like a bad harness. Whats ur thoughts guys? This has gotten personal between the truck and myself, I will win!
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