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New 1963 falcon futura owner

2K views 35 replies 8 participants last post by  Action 
#1 ·
Hey,
I just got a nice patina falcon and drove it home just fine for 20 miles. Straight 6, engine was rebuilt and sleeved. Im excited to get this going and make it better. However, right when I parked it I got an oil leak and radiator leak.
Any suggestions/links for aluminum radiators?
Also I am pretty positive it’s the rear main seal leaking. Any tips on how to replace it? Gaskets I should change?
thank you!
 
#2 ·
Congratulations on becoming the next care-taker/ custodian of a '62 Falcon. I am in a simialr situation, having become the care-taker/ custodian of a '64 Futura 2 door sedan. You have an advantage becasue your car is driveable--mine is not. Great that you got to enjoy those first 20 miles!
I have difficulty trusting work done by previous owners whom I do not know. Since you already have an oil leak, and a rear main at that, you might be better off to pull the engine and go through it. I don't rean, necessarily, to replace all the internal parts, but I would certainly take a look. Pull the oil pan and check the main and rod bearings and replace the oil seals, front and rear--look at the crankshaft where it rides on the oil seals and see if it is smooth or worn. Repair sleeves are available. I would also want a look at the cylinders as well as the pistons and rings. Hopefully everything is in great shape and you can just reinstall. Before you remove the camshaft, prepare to keet the lifters in order. If you are re-using them, and the cam, the lifters MUST go back in the same bore as they were removed. If it tirns out the cam is bad, or the lifters are bad, then get new ones. Lifters have a very slight radius on their bottom side--that makes them spin as the engine runs and promotes even wear. If they are dead flat, replace them, if any are actually dished out, replace them--and check the cam, one or more lobes may be worn out. Chances are everything will be reuseable so the only cost will be the gaskets and oil seals and your time. You can then have confidence that your Falcon will continue to run for many more miles.
The alternative is to remove only the transmission and replace the rear main seal and hope everything else is fine. Many people would choiose this alternative.
There is always the danger of "Mission Creep" where you see "one more thing" that you want to take care of right now and then another, and another, and pretty soon the Falcon is in 2000 pieces and never gets reassembled and driven.
Welcome to Falcon Ownership. You will meet some true experts here who can walk you through any repair.
One more bit of advice----Get as much information as you can--a Factory Service Manual (FSM) is a good start. There are DVDs which have the FSM AND the Parts manuals as well as other literature. Become the expert.
Welcome to the Forum!
 
#3 ·
Thank you for the information! Yea I think I’ll pull the engine and check it out honestly. The guy told me the piston went out and that’s why they needed to repair the engine. I am thinking of the 302, I hope I didn’t just get everyone mad at me.
but for sure I’m doing suspension work first, brakes, and spindles.
 
#4 ·
I am not a fan of aluminum radiators. Aluminum is not as efficient in heat transfer as is copper.
However if that is what you want you only need to put the data into your browser and there will be many to choose from.

Considering you are going to replace the engine, I would be inclined to just replace the rear main seal if that is what is leaking

Action
 
#5 ·
If the car has been sitting a while, keep the fluids full and put more miles on it before you start disassembling it to fix stuff. Lots of aftermarket parts are available due to many shared parts with Mustangs. Is the car a manual or automatic? Is it oil that is leaking or could it be transmission fluid or gear oil? Spend enough time with it to narrow things down.
 
#7 ·
Hey,
I just got a nice patina falcon and drove it home just fine for 20 miles. Straight 6, engine was rebuilt and sleeved. Im excited to get this going and make it better. However, right when I parked it I got an oil leak and radiator leak.
Any suggestions/links for aluminum radiators?
Also I am pretty positive it’s the rear main seal leaking. Any tips on how to replace it? Gaskets I should change?
thank you!
Welcome and congrats on your new to you Falcon. Please post a picture or two of it, besides the underside….😎
 
#10 · (Edited)
Instead of buying a new radiator, try to find a local radiator shop that can check it out. It may be a simple fix. The radiator in my '62 Falcon wagon with a straight 6 is a two-row core and it's almost impossible to find one. A three row core won't fit because the fan will hit it.

To fix the rear main seal, you might try the following. (It's how I plan to replace the rear main seal in my engine). Get out your service manual and remove the transmission and then the oil pan. Use a steel stamp to number the rod and main bearing caps if this wasn't done already. Then remove the rod caps and the middle main bearing caps. Put some plastic tubing on the rod studs so that they don't scratch the rod journals. Loosen the front bearing cap but don't remove it. Support the crank at the rear and remove the rear main bearing cap. Then gently allow the rear part of the crank to drop down a ways until you can get access to the seal. The seal might be the rope type, or since it was rebuilt, to could be rubber. In the groove for the seal, in the bottom cap, there might be a sharp pointed pin sticking up. This is to prevent the rope seal from spinning. Rope seals tend to leak a little no matter what you do (or so I've been told). The rubber seal might be better, but it isn't designed to accept that sharp steel pin sticking out. You might check with a shop that rebuilds motors to see how to handle that one. If you are using a rope seal, install it and then install the rear main cap. Tighten both the front and rear main caps to compress the seal into shape. then loosen them again and apply oil to the crank and seal surface. Once the seal is replaced, begin to reinstall the main caps. Once they are in place then replace the rod caps. Make sure that you torque everything to spec and double check to be sure that you didn't miss any. Then reinstall the pan and tranny. This procedure might save you the work of removing the engine just to change the rear seal.
 
#11 ·
Thank you! This weekend I am going to see where exactly the leak is coming. Because the previous owner told me that the seal is brand new after I had to go back to him for an extra signature on pink. Also I do have a radiator shop I can go to. I should just do that.
 
#15 ·
Drive it for awhile and get to understand what it is that you have.

If yo udo not swap the engine, the stock drum brakes are sufficient to stop that ride assuming the drum brakes are well maintained.

Stay excited!!!

Action
 
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#17 ·
Yea I figured little by little while enjoying it. I’m in no rush. I just want to drive it already!
So I need some help. I’m new to this and I am reading that the oil pressure sensor is there, but where the hell does it read. Also….
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Automotive wheel system Auto part

Wood Motor vehicle Gas Electrical wiring Metal
Can y’all tell me what these three sensors are in these two photos please!!! Or sending units my bad
 
#19 ·
Do you have n oil pressure gauge and light?

Because as stated above you have two oil pressure senders.
The PO has done some interesting modifications. (I mean that in a good way)


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#21 ·
For stock warning lights, Ford used a proove out circuitry. Moving the key in the ignition switch from off to run (not yet to start) all of the warning light should come on. At least for a short bit. This is to show the light bulb is good.

The last picture in post 17 shows two senders screwed into a Tee, that screws into the engine block.
The oil pressure sender towards the rear of the engine is a oil pressure sender for a warning light. Ford used this for a lot of years. The other sender may be a Ford design as well. Not sure. If it was it is for a light too.

The attached picture is a sender used by Ford for an oil pressure guage.

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Ruler Office ruler Font Gas Rectangle
 
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#22 ·
For stock warning lights, Ford used a proove out circuitry. Moving the key in the ignition switch from off to run (not yet to start) all of the warning light should come on. At least for a short bit. This is to show the light bulb is good.

The last picture in post 17 shows two senders screwed into a Tee, that screws into the engine block.
The oil pressure sender towards the rear of the engine is a oil pressure sender for a warning light. Ford used this for a lot of years. The other sender may be a Ford design as well. Not sure. If it was it is for a light too.

The attached picture is a sender used by Ford for an oil pressure guage.

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View attachment 52862
So the oil light sender is not plugged in. There is a solid yellow wire hanging next to it. I’m assuming that’s the wire for.
just out of curiosity, where would my engine temp sender be located? I’ve tried finding it and no luck.
 
#25 ·
The coolant temp sender would look similar to the attached.
The attached is aftermarket and not exact.

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Cylinder Household hardware Metal Plumbing fitting Fashion accessory
 
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#27 ·
Most coolant temp senders are mounted closer to the front of the engine. And at the top of the engine.

The most common place for a water leak that ends up on the front floor is a leaking windshield.

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#29 ·
+1, look at the thermostat housing.

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#30 ·
So I looked at the thermostat housing and there is a pipe plug. The sensor doesn’t exist I guess.
this weekend I am switching out the seal I have right now. The car is covered though so I don’t understand how it’s wet. I am also taking a wire wheel and some rust sealing paint and taking care of under the carpet.
 
#31 ·
Seal? As in rear main seal?
If yes which type of rear main seal?
- Rope, one piece rubber or two piece rubber.-

A good rust sealing paint is POR15.
Metal Rust & Corrosion Protection Products | POR-15 (por15.com)

It can be possible that the heater core leaks. And that may account for liquid inside the vehicle.

If there is a temp warning lamp or a coolant temp gauge, there was a sender at some point. If it is not there, you might look for the wire to the sender.

Action
 
#32 ·
Water leak onto the floor? With the car covered, that is a mystery. Is the car cover waterproof, or does it allow some moisture to "breathe"?
I would look at the cowl/ plenum area at the base of the windshield. Look into the area by the louvers where fresh air comes in for the heater. It might be easier to see if you work at night---put a bright light on top of the louvers and then crawl inside and look up from the floor. I hope you do noy see spots of light, but it is a common area for rust.
 
#34 ·
Part number pre-fix that ends in "Z" is a FORD service part number. Will almost never be found on a part.

The 3rd and fourth digit of "DE"
D = Falcon line
E = Engine Group

THIRD DIGIT VEHICLE GROUP CODES (FOUND ON PARTS)
A = Ford (Generic) / Galaxie (1958-later)
B = Bronco (1970-73), Maverick (1975-77), Fairmont (1978-83)
C = Remanufactured Parts (1966-75), Elite (1975), Capri (1979-later)
D = Falcon (1960-69), Maverick (1970-74), Granada (1975-82), LTD (1983-later)
E = Truck (Cab over Engine) (1970-73), Pinto (1976-80), Escort (1981-later)
F = Foreign sales / Trans Am Racing
G = Comet (1961-67), Montego (1968-76), EXP (1982-later)
H = Holman/Moody HiPo Part, Heavy Truck (1966-82), Medium Heavy Truck (1983-later)
I = NOT USED
J = Industrial / Marine engines
K = Edsel (1958-60), Tilt Cab (1970-73), Comet (1975-77), Zephyr (1978-83), Marquis (1983-later)
L = Lincoln (1958-60), Mark (1961-later)
M = Mercury (1958-later)
N = Tractor (1958-later)
O = Fairlane (1962-68, Torino (1969-76), LTD II (1977-79), LN7 (1982-83)
P = Autolite (Later Motorcraft) (1962-later)
Q =- NOT USED
R = Rotunda (Generic)(1962-69), Ford of Europe (1970-later), Remanufactured Parts (1976?-later)
S = Thunderbird (1958-later)
T = Truck (1958-65), Light/Medium Truck (1966-82), Bronco (1966-82, Except 1970-73), Light Truck & Bronco I (1983-later)
U = Econoline/Club Wagon Van (1961-later)
V = Lincoln Continental (1961-81)
W = Cougar (1967-80), XR7 (1981-82), Cougar (1983-later)
X = Truck (Short Highway) (1970-73)
Y = Meteor (Canada) (1962-72), Bobcat (1975-80), Lynx (1981-later)
Z = Mustang 1964-73; Mustang II 1974-78; Mustang 1979-later
1 = NOT USED
2 = Pinto (1972-75)
3 = Tempo (1984-later)
4 = Comet (1971-74), Monarch (1975-80), Cougar (1981-82), Marquis (1983-later)
5 = Recreation Vehicles (1974-75), Continental (1982-later)
6 = Pantera (1971-75), Topaz (1984-later)
7 = Courier (1971-82); Ranger/Bronco II (1983-up); Explorer (1991-later)
8 = Capri (U.S. Parts) (1972-75)
9 = Turbine Engine Parts (1970-75)

Fourth Digit: Design Engineering Office
A = Light Truck Engineering Division
B = Body and Electrical Product Division
C = Chassis
D = Overseas Product Engineering
E = Engine
F = General Parts/Electrical and Electronics Division
G = NOT USED
H = Climate Control (1972-up)
I = NOT USED
J = Autolite/Ford Parts & Service Division
K = NOT USED
L = Industrial Engine Parts & Service
M = Performance/Special Vehicle Operations (Incl. Holman Moody)
N = Tractor Parts
O = NOT USED
P = Auto Transmission
Q = NOT USED
R = Manual Transmission
S = Light & Heavy Truck Special Order Parts
T = Heavy Truck Engineering
U = Special Vehicle Operations
W = Axle and Driveshaft
X = Emissions, Economy and Special Vehicle Engineering (Muscle Car Parts)
Y = Lincoln/Mercury Service Parts
Z = Ford Service Parts


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#36 ·
OK?
The Z in the 4th position of a prefix of a number indicates a service part number. That number will be seen in a parts catalog. Never on a part. (The exception is some carb tags)

In the first picture in post #26 cast into the intake is "C3DE"
Both the OE factory intake and any service replacement intakes will have the "C3DE" cast into the intake.
The suffix may be different if it was a service part replacement but the prefix will all be the same.

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