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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Just an added note : I did check spark from the distributor to each plug, and all cylinders are getting spark. Though I've completely disassembled and cleaned with carb cleaner, compressed air, then simple green + ultrasonic cleaning, it might be possible that something is absolutely jammed into one of the channels.

Does anyone have a preference on carb cleaners OR/AND a way to clean the pathways physically? I know some folks use wire to get in there, but the ones I've used that are so thin that they don't make it past any bends. Would something like THIS be a good thing to try?

Also, I've adjusted the float a number of times, and this one (just before it's horizontal) has the fuel level just about 70%. I'm not sure which air bleed could be clogged. I'm reading about a "Purple Power Degreaser" on another thread on this thread. I think I'm interested in trying it to see if I can get my airbleeds and power enrichment cleaned out for sure. (note, the first time I took the carb apart after this idle issue started, the power enrichment brass plug was inside the fuel bowl just floating around. I think it's possible that it fell out and something got sucked in and has been there ever since.)

Cleaning out the power enrichment seems tricky - it's plugged so how would you even get in there? The spring loaded system requires that you disassemble the whole thing somehow to get access to the channel.
 

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The diaphragm enrichment valve HAS to come out to get the carb cleaned. Where varnish and deposits have been in a carb for a long time, the carb cleaner used may have to be heated some. Or the carb parts are left in a cleaning solution over night while the solution is being circulated.

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That degreaser at Auto Zone is cheap enough. It would be worth a shot.
And do make sure the entire carb is disassembled.

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In the video it looks like a lot of fuel being drawn in at low speed. And you said your plugs are black so I would think rich. What's puzzling is it runs with the choke partial which contradicts too much fuel. If that were the case it would flood with less air and more fuel. The fact it happened overnight is interesting. I wonder if the timing chain went bad when trying to start it and it's retarding the cam which effects low speed as opposed to higher rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
All:

Just an update. Life's been busy!

Had to get Elsie out of the side yard to drop a dead tree, and decided (it's a gorgeous day here in Austin, a dry 72) to take her around the block a few times. I think this idle problem may go a little deeper, and might not just be idle. While driving at around 20, she's jolting. I drove around at 20-30 and took the choke completely off. She ran, but with a little gas or up hill she's jolting now and then which feels like a misfire. New plugs and spark to each (tested). I think a compression test is in order, but it's not a constant miss. Maybe there IS a vacuum leak, which would be pronounced with the throttle slightly closed, but not when accelerating. So maybe not the idle circuit at all, but the vacuum leak. Just cannot figure out where it is. Maybe another round with the smoke machine. This shouldn't be SO tricky.

Gonna do a compression test (battery is pretty weak though), so a few steps before I get there. May buckle and have a shop do a smoke test.
 

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Post a vacuum reading

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Ok gang - some stuff to share.

Some readings and waveforms that I'm not sure what to make of. Vacuum is strong, but seems to vibrate super fast. Voltage to the ignition coil isn't what I'd expect from what I've seen my 66 wagoneer - which is a solid square to the coil form the dizzy. I do tend to get into trouble diagnosing this with a graphic multimeter - making it harder than I should. But this is just a big difference,

I checked the points, and it looks ok by sight. Didn't do a feeler gauge, but it's clean and looks right.

Any input on this would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I can get a dwell reading tomorrow. I've read that the valve guides or springs could be weak with a fast moving vacuum needle like I'm seeing. I can pull the valve cover off pretty easy tomorrow too and get eyes on.
 

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There are a dozen or so of these on the net.
Watch Photograph Analog watch White Clock


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Voltage to the coil should be less than 12 volts after it passes through a resistance wire. In the 7 to 9 volt range.

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