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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I've searched around and haven't found an answer to this question.
My wife's 2001 XLT Expedition is having door lock issues.
The Key fob, door switch, and door keypad will only unlock the drivers door. All three will LOCK all the doors, and the doors will lock when you put it in drive(the autolock feature). I've read that it can be due to a broken wire in the harness between the door and the body. However, I don't think that this is my problem because when i press the unlock i can hear the relay in the RAP module click. Has anyone else had this experience? Should i replace my RAP module? Thanks in advance for any replys.
 

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Excellent post Poppy! :)

Having experienced a similar door lock issue, albeit NOT on and Expedition, I would be more inclined to think it is a possible fuse, relay or wiring issue (to possibly the CSM) or for that matter, even a bad ground, over the RAP itself , just my personal opinion....

Here are some 2001 Expedition Door Locks, Central Security Module, Power and Ground Distribution wiring diagrams.

Quick question - Does the passenger side door lock switch function properly? Does the system arm itself (chirp sound)?

Hope this helps.
 

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LOL...
Thanks electro!
As you know... we work for little pats on the head :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
The passenger side door switch works in that it will lock all the doors, but it won't unlock any of them. Only the driver side switch will unlock the drivers door. I'll check the relay's and report what i found.

No relay's found in the engine compartment.
 

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The passenger side door switch works in that it will lock all the doors, but it won't unlock any of them.
Not even to unlock that door???

No relay's found in the engine compartment.
I didn't think there was - Fuses 6,7 & 8 in the Battery Junction Box all supply VBatt to the Central Security Module for the door locks - check those fuses and check for a relay #4 (per the owner's manual) and/or a fuse 4 in the Central Junction Box (inside the vehicle), as it also supplies power to the CSM for the door locks.
 

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Thinking out loud.........

Looking at the Door lock diagram 01dl.pdf - Central Security Module connector C257 Pin 22 circuit wire 117 Pink/Black is "All Unlock" - if you follow that wire feed path it splices at splice S504 and at splice S603 then supplies power to the L/F, R/F, L/R, R/R, and Liftgate lock actuators. It is possible that there is a break/open in the wire leading from the CSM up to splice S603. I am suggesting up to this splice only, based on reasoning, due to the fact you seem to have NO functional power to ALL UNLOCK the door locks.

I would start by checking for power at C257 Pin 22 of the CSM, if there is power, in theory, one could rule out a fuse and/or the CSM itself. It seems highly improbable that all 5 actuators are inoperative (bad) and more likely that there is a break in the wiring supplying power to all of them. In my opinion.

I believe that clicking you are hearing is not a "relay", but an indication that the wiring to the power lock switches themselves (both lock and unlock wiring) is good and that it is the door locks clicking in an attempt to work - which in theory would then rule out a wiring issue to door lock switches. In my opinion.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
clicking

I understand what your saying about the clicking. I am certain that the lock actuators are not trying to open and that it is only the RAP module that is clicking(a relay opening and closeing) I can feel it when i press unlock on the key fob.

I see where your going with checking for power at pin 22. It is my understanding that the switches at the door acutally make a ground. I'll check that out. BTW i really appreciate the help here.

Ok, i have power in on pin #1 tan/wht, but no power out on pin #22 pnk/blk. My Central Security Module must be bad. Thanks for all the help.
 

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For a 2001 F150 it looks like the relay block is under the dash to the left of the glove box.
 

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My Central Security Module must be bad.
Not necessarily. You have power to the CSM from Fuse 6.
I would start by checking for power at C257 Pin 22 of the CSM, if there is power, in theory, one could rule out a fuse and/or the CSM itself.
That should have read if there is NO power.

I don't mean to confuse you, any more than I already have. Checking wiring is easier done than said for me, so I am at a loss in explaining it and believe I have done a very confusing job of it so far, I apologize to you. If you bear with me I will try this again.

Connector 256 Pin 1 circuit wire 163 Red/Orange of the CSM is the constant for the driver's door power lock which is why that door will lock and unlock and it should have power if you check it.

Connector C257 pin 11 circuit wire 118 Pink/Orange of the CSM is "All lock", it is working and should have power if you check it.

There is no power at Pin 22 which means to me the circuit is broken - no power to or from the actuators to complete the "all unlock" function.

I can't tell you exactly where your break is, but I still believe that circuit wire 117 Pink/Black is the problem.

I hope this helps more than it confuses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i see

Ok i see where your going now. The all lock and all unlock go directly to the actuator's themselves. I can see why you think I have a broken wire. The only problem i have with that is, it appears to me that the CSM grounds one of the wires to lock and unlock the doors. If that is true then the doors should neither lock or unlock if a wire is broken. The left front works correctly, and all the others will lock. That doesn't seem possible if i have a broken wire. Now i'm really confused lol.

I went to the local pull a part this morning and tried 6 different CSM's. None worked. (2 from expy's and 4 from either a taurus or a sable).

I guess i need to start tracing out some wire.
 

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If that is true then the doors should neither lock or unlock if a wire is broken. The left front works correctly, and all the others will lock. That doesn't seem possible if i have a broken wire. Now i'm really confused lol.
You need to THINK in circles - 3 small circles - electricity flows like water - it creates a circular pattern - power in and power out.

The reason that only the driver's door will lock and unlock is because Connector 256 Pin 1 circuit wire 163 Red/Orange of the CSM is the constant for the driver's door power lock - that circuit is a complete circle - that is the only Red/Orange circuit wire - the power flows constantly.

The reason that the doors lock is because Connector C257 pin 11 circuit wire 118 Pink/Orange of the CSM is "All lock", it is because that circuit is a complete circle - no breaks in the wires.

The reason that the doors will not "all unlock" is in because the circle is NOT complete - Connector C257 Pin 22 circuit wire 117 Pink/Black of the CSM. The reason I am suggesting that the break is before the splice is because ALL the door will "not" all unlock - it splices then flows/feeds to all 5 door actuators. In my opinion, (aka guess) it would seem illogical that power would NOT flow to 5 different actuators (5 different power or circuit wire feeds) if the break was after the splice - that would mean at least 5 more breaks - what do you think? Remember the Driver's door lock is a constant (that lock/unlock circle is complete).

Trust me, I have been through this, I know how confusing it may sound, and I am sure that my butchering of an explanation of it all is NOT helping, but I am trying my best to help you through this. :)

I hope this helps you more than it confuses you any further.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
no worries

LOL, no your doing fine. I'm actually schooled in digital electronics repair, but it's been about 16 years since i've actually practiced that art. So i'm extremely out of shape so to speak with regards to reading schematics. The reason i was saying that i don't think the wire is broken is because although the drivers door does infact have it's own wire from the CSM (red/org), it shares the (pnk/blk) wire with all the other actuators. But that doesn't mean that there isn't a split somewhere between the drivers actuator and the CSM and the rest of the actuators. It just seems that according to the schematic it can't be between node S603, node S504 and the CSM, if that was the case then the left rear door should also lock(but then again that actuator hasn't worked right in a couple years so that just compounds the issues even further).
But don't forget that i REALLY REALLY appreciate all the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok, I finally bit the bullet and ordered a module off ebay that was listed for a 2001 - 2003 F150. When i plugged it in almost all my problems were resolved. The doors will now lock and unlock, and i was able to program my key fobs. However, the keypad on the door won't work. It lights up when i press a button, but the code won't unlock the door. Any ideas? The keypad works with my old box.
 

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Ok, I finally bit the bullet and ordered a module
The RAP Module? Or the Central Security Module?
When i plugged it in almost all my problems were resolved. The doors will now lock and unlock, and i was able to program my key fobs.
Excellent!!
However, the keypad on the door won't work. It lights up when i press a button, but the code won't unlock the door. Any ideas? The keypad works with my old box.
Are you using the "Old" key code? If it was the RAP Module that you replaced, there should be a 5-digit key code located on a sticker on the module, that you will need to use.

Glad you got it fixed....... :yesnod:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
In my research i've found that the RAP and CSM are the same thing depending on what year model you vehicle is. I've also found that it appears that FORD only makes 2 modules. One being a tan color(the one I have) and one being black. The tan module can be found in numerous models of cars lincolns, sables, expedtions, f150s, taurus', and windstar van's to name a few.

Yes, i used the code on the side of the module and not my old code. BTW if you leave the module unplugged long enough any personal code that you set will clear.
 

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Hey Default_user8,

I forgot to ask this before - Will the keyless entry work to lock the doors? That's 8 & 9 pressed together - right?
 

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This may seem redundant, but did you try this proceedure:

[FONT=&quot]
Deactivating/Activating Auto-lock

1. Enter the five 5-digit code.
2. Press and hold 7/8 control.
3. Press and release 3/4 control while holding 7/8 control.
4. Release 7/8 control.

The horn will chirp once if auto-lock was deactivated or twice if auto-lock was activated
[/FONT]

Otherwise, I am thinking that it may need to be reprogrammed or configured. The RAP is a Type 2 programmable module and "IF" replaced at a dealership part of the procedure would have been to upload the module's configuration information to NGS (New Generation Star) Tester, then downloaded into the new module once installed. And if I recall correctly, I think that the PCM also needs to be flashed too.

You may want to contact your local Ford Dealership and inquire with either a Service Advisor, Service Manager or Shop Foreman about this.

Hope this helps.....
 
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