Hi Jamesx22,
While I am a "newbie" to posting on this forum, I am not a "newbie" when it comes to auto repair 'n care.
My '92 Bronco has a V-8, some of the early electronics, with the rest being "pre-electronics; power packs, 1k+ in sensors, etc."
My 2002 Explorer XLT, is just the opposite of the above. There is a formula I use, when it comes to cleaning the engine bays on BOTH of these vehicles:
WallyWorld (Walmart): Crude Cutter (CC) - sold over in "Hardware", from 12oz to a 1 gallon jug, and moderately priced.
While you are there, go over to where the engine accessories are sold, buying whatever foaming tire cleaner you like.
Take you vehicle to a local car wash, keeping this in mind: The cleaner the car wash, the better maintained it usually is; better the sprayer wands work; more time for the quarter$ you feed the machine, or bill$ for that matter.
Without a doubt: cover your windshield, fenders, and clothespin an old, 100% polyester, bedspread, to the frontend of your ride. [Repeating here what I believe another already posted/suggested.] This is a must though, with Crude Cutter. However, Te$t$T a drop or two on the corner of your valve cover, airfilter housing, wheelwell covers, and so on. Let stand for a minute or two; rinse off, then dry. IF it did not dull or remove the paint, you're okay. IF it did, try the 409 post, as I have and it works okay.
Engine must be cool. The lower the "humidity, the better, too. Spray the Crude Cutter, starting at the top of the engine, to lower areas; corner where your battery is mounted, and all the way around, in a circle: this applies to earlier model engine bays [i.e. distributor, timing light, coil, few sensor$, etc.) vs. the later model bays, as described above.
The Crude Cutter works great on the electronic coverings, but questionable on "sensor housings". IF you have a sensor, and it has say two wires, going into a round, metal tube, which is open-ended, where the wires go into this housing, I'd avoid spraying the Crude Cutter on the open-end of this type of sensor. Wrap such an end with some simple, 1/2" masking tape, as Crude Cutter, watered-down, would be about as harmful.
Let this stand, per the instructions on the CC bottle.
Spray off the engine bay, beginning with the firewall, and spraying from side-to-side, and back to front. Doing the reverse spray pattern will leave you with a firewall coated with whatever you washed-off everything else!
IMPORTANT: A lint-free, shop rag. Wait, till the water stops dripping off the distributor cap; unclamp both sides of your cap, then move this as far away from your distributor as possible, an gently shake the cap for a minute. Next, take the rag and wipe-dry the entire inside of the cap, from top to bottom; visually inspect, especially the "contact posts" and center button, making sure there is no water or condensate on any of them. Inspect the rotor. IF damp or wet, remove same, shake it briskly, dry-off, then replace same in distributor; reinstall your distributor cap.
WAIT, till you see little, if any water, dripping-off the bottom of your engine bay. If so, then start your vehicle, letting it run till it reaches operating temperature. Once it does, remove your coverings, and drive it out.
Maybe helpful? I've found that replacing the battery posts "chemical rings", then coating the posts with NAPA's Battery Post/Terminal Spray, negates having these posts getting any of the "white, powdery-like" substance from attacking the posts/terminals, and ensures worry-free starting.
I sincerely hope my post helps you....
Respectfully,
Daverfl