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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone recommend a quality A/C conversion kit and or supplier? I have an 83 E150 w/302. I have seen a few different types and and brands, not sure which will provide the best results.

Thanks!
Sal
 

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The kits vary widely, some of them will do more harm than good. The ones that will do the harm are the ones with a gauge on the can and a sealant included. I have seen sealants COMPLETELY DESTROY auto a/c systems and once a sealant is in the system, no shop will touch it. This is because they cannot legally recover refrigerant because it will destroy their EXPEN$IVE recovery equipment.

I strongly recommend staying with R12, most ESPECIALLY in a van. These vehicles need MAXIMUM a/c efficiency which is provided by the refrigerant for which the system was designed.

All that said, the best way to convert is:

o Recover any remaining refrigerant.
o Break all lines and flush all components to remove oil
o Flush compressor with Ester or PAG oil only, do not flush with solvent
o Use green o-rings upon reassembly
o Distribute correct amount of Ester or PAG oil throughout system, that is a few ounces in evaporator, a few in condensor a few in receiver/drier
o Install good, brass conversion fittings on low and high side.
o Put new receiver/drier in place last and as soon as it is connected, begin thorough evacuation
o Find sticker under hood and charge by weight. Start with the specified weight X .75. If this does not give a low vent temp, add refrigerant in small steps. Do not exceed a high side pressure of ambient temperature X 2.5, 2.2 is usually optimum.


It is MUCH less trouble and expense to simply repair any problems the system might have and charge with R12. The price has come down in the last few years due to the rapidly declining demand. The cars that use it are hitting the wrecking yards in numbers causing lower demand, thus lower prices. As a side benefit, you will have a much better performing a/c system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Doc, thanks for the replay -
My original system is in decent shape, and it pushes somewhat cold air, and i think it only needs a boost , however R12 (so i am told) is no longer allowed to be sold in NJ. I have tried a few stores but run into the same answer... I know select states still sell it, but i have not worked that angle yet.
 

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i always thought you had to switch the parts too... last i checked someone, probably one of my mom's friends, told me R12 was federally banned...if you can find a shop in the area where they still have some... :ihih:

or someone online...
 

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...I strongly recommend staying with R12, most ESPECIALLY in a van. These vehicles need MAXIMUM a/c efficiency which is provided by the refrigerant for which the system was designed.

It is MUCH less trouble and expense to simply repair any problems the system might have and charge with R12. The price has come down in the last few years due to the rapidly declining demand. The cars that use it are hitting the wrecking yards in numbers causing lower demand, thus lower prices. As a side benefit, you will have a much better performing a/c system.
I couldn't agree more. R12 will vastly outperform R134a in this vehicle. While the manufacture of R12 is banned, the distribution, sale, and use of R12 is legal by licensed technicians, if proper service methods are employed. Try calling automotive shops in your area that specialize in A/C repair. They will most likely have R12 or know who does.
 

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There's probably more misinformation about R12 than anything outside of maybe the oil spill.

R12 is NOT, nor has it EVER BEEN Federally banned. It can be easily and now relatively economically obtained. It was pretty expensive for awhile, but now that most cars requiring it are no longer on the road, demand is low, thus so is the price.

You can legally buy R12 after going online and spending $15 and about an hour taking an open book test. This will get you an EPA 609 license so that you can buy it legally anywhere you choose. If it is not available in stores in your state, you can buy it off ebay for as little as $15 per pound.

There are no "parts that must be switched." I have been working on auto a/c systems since the age of 8 in my Dad's shop in 1957. The conversion can be accomplished by following my outline above.

All that said, I will REITERATE that you will be money, time and comfort ahead by staying with R12.
 

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R-12 production in the U.S. A. ended on 12-31-1995 by federal law. However, as stated above it is not federally banned, but does require a license to obtain. There are a number of substitute chemical compounds, but I do not know of any of them that are EPA approved for use in a motor vehicle. Some of these compounds are made with flamable chemicals, e.g. methane. STAY AWAY FROM THESE SO CALLED SUBSTITUTES. They are dangerous. As noted some states have banned the sale of R-12 by professionals and may ban the import of the refrigerant into the state. Some states also have exceptions for historic vehicles (say 30 years old), "classic" vehicles (say 25 years old), or "collector cars" e.g. limited production vehicles with R-12 systems. Check with your state laws, e.g. your state EPA.
Ditto the above, that is stick with R-12 if possible. Doing an R-134a conversion can be expensive and a PIA. There are compatable oils, but everything still needs taken apart to be properly cleaned, some parts need to be replaced, e.g. all seals and the accumulater/filter dryer at a minmum, and then put back together, vacuumed, and recharged. Also note that if your system needs a charge it has a leak, period. It is a sealed system and will only need a "charge" if it has a leak. Fix the leak no matter which refrigerant you decide to use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK, I am going to order a kit to reseal my existing system, and have located some R12 charge kits on Ebay.

Thanks again, for the input.
Sal
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok, instead of getting the 609 cert ($20) and paying $60-$70 for a freon kit, i am going to try the freeze 12 boost kit and see how well it works ($45/kit) and if that doesn't do it, i am going to go the freon route. I will post results when done...i should receive the kit around July 10.
 

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Notes: Freeze 12 does not return refrigerant oil to the compressor very well so you may experience early compressor failure. One of Freeze 12 properties is that it likes low side pressures at about 16 psi. The approximately 24 psi low pressure switch in your system will cause cycling more frequently than R-12 would. This will cause early wear out of the A/C clutch surfaces. IF you add Freeze 12 to your system you will not be able to get any professional shop to do any work on your system. If they evacuate your system the Freeze 12 would contaminate their refrigerant and their evacuation equipment. If they work on your system and you do not tell them your system is contaminated they will bill you for the costs to replace their refrigerant, the cost to dispose of the contaminated refrigerant, and the cost to have their evacuation equipment cleaned and repaired, and maybe a charge of loss of revenue while their equipment is "down". The bill can be thousands of dollars. Good luck.
 

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Hi Guys I have the same problem and would like to get ahold of the diagram for the ac system which is a dual ac set up with r12 and I need to replace the rear motor and motor cage assembly and the where abouts of the filler valve for the Freon,my Van is a 1993 E 350, sure could use the help thanks Vincent
 

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Converting will require a flush to get the old oil out. Many van conversions have a non-factory back AC unitthat isn't the same quality as tthe front factory unit. This is true for my '90 E 150.
The 2 combined ac systems in van van rquire almost5 #'s of referigent.

>>>>>>>>>>>Action
 
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