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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I have a 99 Ford Expedition 4.6 4x4 and am having problems with the rear axle. When I take off somewhat quick it feels like the axle separates from the frame and a ugly noise comes from the area, like it's broken or something. But if I very gradually come to speed I barely hear nothing and at coast down hill the same, no noise unless I hit a bump on the road. When my wife told me something was wrong she said the truck just started shaking violently so I went to check it out and got the above info. What do you think? Thanks.

P.S. Thanks Cuda Jim for guiding me to the site.
 

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if it not a irs, then take a look at your axle bolts there should be 4 ubolt that hold it to the springs, then take a look at your shackles at the end of the springs and your bushings, there there is a problem with connection it will be in one of those three areas. or it could just be as simple as you mistaking the problem for a bad u-joint ... hold the break and shift gears to see if you hear a clunk.
 

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I had a friend who had a 99 truck and if i remember was the same symptoms as you have. I dared to crawl under the vehicle with him in the driver seat,( its about trust ;) applied the brake and observed the movement of the driveshaft. yes, it did move,but the movement was in the rear end, All im saying is make sure you not only watch the driveshaft u-joints but look at the rear pinion. If you have more than 45 degrees of play id say your rear end is bad
hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok so far no real clunk when I put it in gear although I do hear a pretty loud squeak when I put it in gear and give it gas while holding the break. Also while doing that I put it in drive gave it some gas and then put it in reverse and it felt like the back dropped quite a bit (Never did that before). Didn't see anything out of the ordinary the 1st time but I'll take another look under.

The differential fluid was changed about a year or so ago.

I'll check that and get back. Maybe I can have my wife in the drivers seat. If I don't answer back you'll know how much she really did or didn't love me.

BTW one of the things I noticed when I first checked it was that if I gave it a nice load of gas at a stand still it felt like the back wheels where some what locking or hesitating and then the violent shake would start. Had my wife do the same and they were not locking, just looked and sounded horrible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
looked under the truck and had my wife give it gas while going through the gears and from "drive" with gas and break she got off the gas, kept the break, put it in reverse and the rear of the truck dropped significantly (a few inches it seemed), while that happened I noticed that where the drive shaft and the differential meet it seemed like the differential part of the axle was going up and when she put it in reverse it dropped back down to were it should be. Does that sound right? Sorry guys I hope that makes sense.
 

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Had a clunking noise going on in the rear and turned out a bolt/nut got loose (driver's side) that attaches a (dunno what it's called) rod/bar that goes from one end of the rear axle to the other Found the prob by looking under the rear and jiggling the rear bumper left and right.
 

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u bolts

Ok so far no real clunk when I put it in gear although I do hear a pretty loud squeak when I put it in gear and give it gas while holding the break. Also while doing that I put it in drive gave it some gas and then put it in reverse and it felt like the back dropped quite a bit (Never did that before). Didn't see anything out of the ordinary the 1st time but I'll take another look under.

The differential fluid was changed about a year or so ago.

I'll check that and get back. Maybe I can have my wife in the drivers seat. If I don't answer back you'll know how much she really did or didn't love me.

BTW one of the things I noticed when I first checked it was that if I gave it a nice load of gas at a stand still it felt like the back wheels where some what locking or hesitating and then the violent shake would start. Had my wife do the same and they were not locking, just looked and sounded horrible.
ok if the relationship of the driveshaft/rear pinion doesnt change, that i would agree with pletchaj. look at the u-bolts. check the relationship of the rear axle to the leaf springs with your wifes assistance again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update..... changed the rear u-joint and no change :( I didn't feel too bad cause the yoke needed to be changed anyway. But what I diid noticed was that the u-joints on the drive shaft the goes from the transmission to the 4x4 unit definitely needs replacing (It has lots of play + I can see the u-joint is bad) When I test drove it I remembered that and I put it on 4H to see what reaction I got and it was actually better......... what do you guys think? Could that be the culprit?
 

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i am wondering when you say it seem the yoke point it seems to move up when you sifted gears, there is a bearing behind that yoke that can go bad, possibly converting torque into up and down motion from the work bearing ... if i understood what you were saying about the upward movment, of was the whole differnetail moving up and down? something else to try ... jack the vechicle, with rear wheels of ground, have someone hold a tire and another try to spin the other if it rocks back and forth with the driveshaft locked then you might have a worn ring gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just got back from a vacation and drove it yesterday to re-familiarize myself with the problem and I'm really starting to thik it's something loose in the rear suspension because like I said in the beginning it feels like the axle is loose and moves when I give it gas.

So I thought like someone said, the "u-bolts" but I don't have any u-bolts what I have is a "multi-link suspension" almost exactly like this one http://www.sportruck.com/news/2009-Dodge-Ram/coil-spring-rear-suspension.gif

I'm trying to find a long enough jack to raise it fully off the ground so I can get a better look and move things around easier. Anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks again.
 

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i am wondering when you say it seem the yoke point it seems to move up when you sifted gears, there is a bearing behind that yoke that can go bad, possibly converting torque into up and down motion from the work bearing ... if i understood what you were saying about the upward movment, of was the whole differnetail moving up and down? something else to try ... jack the vechicle, with rear wheels of ground, have someone hold a tire and another try to spin the other if it rocks back and forth with the driveshaft locked then you might have a worn ring gear.
that was my thought
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok (sighing with relief) problem solved! The "upper suspension arms" are broken on both sides of the rear suspension! could not tell in the beginning but after getting some 4x4 blocks under the bottle jack I was able to lift it high enough that it was in plain site.

Now to find out if I NEED to pick them up from the dealer or if I can pick them up at a near by auto parts store (doubt it)

P.S. Thank you everyone for your help I really appreciate it all.
 

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The arms are broken or the bushings are worn out? The bushings can be replaced. Energy Suspension has a kit but it's pricey $90 or so IIRC. Their bushings (polyurethane) are better than OEM.
The arms can be welded IF there is enough to material remaining.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Nah, they are broken! Both sides. I looked them up and they are pricey themselves, bout $240-260 for 2 or bout $500 or so for top and bottom set is the cheapest I found. Might go to the junkyard and try to find some in good condition or just take the plunge when I can and buy em new.

From reading other post about them they seem to be known to rust and break. ??? Don't know if this is only in the Northern/snowy states or everywhere but it sucks either way.
 

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awesome help

you guys in this community are awesome. read through some posts that really helped members.

thanks glad to be a part:thumbsup:
 

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Nah, they are broken! Both sides. I looked them up and they are pricey themselves, bout $240-260 for 2 or bout $500 or so for top and bottom set is the cheapest I found. Might go to the junkyard and try to find some in good condition or just take the plunge when I can and buy em new.

From reading other post about them they seem to be known to rust and break. ??? Don't know if this is only in the Northern/snowy states or everywhere but it sucks either way.
The scrap yards know how much they cost new....don't be surprised at the cost of used. For that kind of $$ I'd be welding them up or fab them from scratch.....but that's just me. Hope it goes good for ya.
 
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