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Don't worry about this numbers.
That alternator case is all 12 volt.
And should be very cheap compared to other things you will or may do.

You will have choices for amp rating. From memory 38, 42, 55, 60 and many be more. If there is no difference in price get the highest amp. If you have AC (factory or add on get over 50 amp)

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And looking at the alternator pic you posted that wiring is in poor shape. The crimp on connectors are OK for the smaller wire. IF they are tight. Personally I am not a fan of crimp connecters that are exposed to the outside.

There is a larger black or yellow wire that attaches at the red grommet terminal on the alternator. This is where all of the power comes out to charge the batter and run the vehicle. It is a larger wire for a reason. I would solder that connector. The other end of that larger wire goes to the same terminal on the starter relay as the + battery cable end. And the other two wires.

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Discussion Starter #24
I agree, I am practicing how to join wires as I have other connections that are just broken or fell apart when I took the engine out.

Thanks for the tips.... very helpful!
 

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Oh and a post script on the starter relay. As you look at the picture ….
The large lug on the right side has one large cable that goes to the starter motor.
The small post on the right goes through an engine wiring harness to the coil + side
The small post on the left side goes through the same engine wiring harness and is from the ignition switch.
The large lug on the left side is where many wires connect. The end of the battery + cable. Anything that was connected to the battery + cable at the battery.

I have attached a better picture of the relay. (Even though the author of the picture calls it a solenoid. Electrically it is a relay) This should give you a better ide on wiring.

The relay you have was used on certain Ford light trucks and later cars (late 1980s and later) with electronic ignition. If you were restoring and wanted a period correct relay there are markings that would be correct for 67. I don't think that is what you are looking for. But if you were the Pony car guys have pages and pages of that stuff that translates to other models as well. Like your Fairlane.

I am working on updating my '66 Continental's engine compartment. So the period exact stuff is rather interesting. But I have weird interests in cars according to my teenager.

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image-2854189306.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Thanks for explaining all this. However, before I change this I wanted to share two other components that were bolted to the shock tower... coil and what I think is a resistor. I wanted to share this to see if these are also original and or if they are compatible with the photo you sent.

Really appreciate the education on this!
8DD5222F-A6DE-4492-B171-19F39915A603.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Oh... and my starter motor has a solenoid switch built into it. From what I read some of the older fords did not have a solenoid on the starter motor, some did and some had two solenoid switches, one on the starter motor and one like the one in your picture.

Thoughts?
 

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Oh... and my starter motor has a solenoid switch built into it. From what I read some of the older fords did not have a solenoid on the starter motor, some did and some had two solenoid switches, one on the starter motor and one like the one in your picture.

Thoughts?
Your should be like this
awww.rockauto.com_info_71_N3185_ANG__ra_p.jpg

It's a magnetic pull down not a solenoid
 

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Very few FLM engines used a solenoid. They were limited to high compression big blocks. Pictured is the starter for my 70 Mark III with a 460. The cylinder on the top is a solenoid. And that set up does NOT have a starter relay.

The parts you show bolted to the shock tower are not stock. Some one has added those. The white block on the left is a resister block. Have no idea what the black box with red stickers might be.

Does your car have the stock ignition system with points?

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3142.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited by Moderator)
44853202-A530-486A-BEC6-24CACCC15288.jpeg
Hi Action,

After some research the ignition system is not stock and is not the point system. The distributor and the“black” box (coil) are both from Mallory and it require a ballast resistor. So that is the other piece. Here is the picture of the distributor.

From the reading I have done it cysts down on the maintenance and challenges with a point system. While it is not stock I think I will keep it. Especially looking at the price :). With all this said would anyone know the are other things dependent on this I need to watch out for... if I change back to stock on some of the electrical components?

Thanks again Action!

As for your engine... man I bet that call hall ass!

My c4 transmission has been rebuilt and I should get my rebuilt 289 next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Hey Action,
I have moved on to wiring and decided to get the proper relay... same as the picture you shared.

I an trying to figure out if I need to connect something on the small post “I”?

From what I have read the brown wire should connect to this post, however the wire for my wiper motor washer is routed back to this wire. So I am not sure what to do. If I do this, will I cause any problems. As my coil, as you commented is not standard and I don’t plan to change my ignition coil.

Also I am not sure where I would connect my washer motor too?

Any help would be great!
 

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Post #25

"Ï" terminal is only hot during engine cranking. (Ignition key to start position)
All other times the I terminal of the starter relay has not power.

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Discussion Starter #36
Thank you for the reply.... on the 4th! You are a master! Happy 4th!! While we are Canadian we spent 7 years in Oklahoma. Love the people there.
 

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Being here is fun for me.
If it was not you would not see me post.

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