Removing wet carpet-2010 Escape | FordForumsOnline.com
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Removing wet carpet-2010 Escape

Discussion in 'Interiors, Sound & Security Systems' started by Jmba1, May 18, 2020.

  1. Jmba1

    Jmba1 New Member

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    Hello everyone,
    I have a 2010 Ford Escape XLT in Melbourne, FL. Had some heavy rains a couple days ago (about 4 inches), and discovered yesterday that the carpet on the driver's side is soaking wet (the rest of the carpet is also pretty damp). Locating the leak is going to be a task in itself, though I'm sure it's the sunroof since there was water in the cup holders ( I threw a tarp over it for now). My immediate concern is getting the carpet dried. Took basic steps using a wet vac and towels, but the padding is holding a lot of water.
    My question is: How much of a pain is it to remove the seats in order to pull the carpet out so that it can have a chance to dry? Does it require special tools, two people....Any recommendations?
    Thanks for your thoughts in advanced.
    -Paul
  2. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    One person can do it if the front seats is NOT a bench seat. Two people are needed for a bench seat.

    Most of the time seat removal is removing 4 nuts or bolts from under the vehicle. Or from the inside. Raise the seat first. Also disconnect all wiring.

    Door sill plates are a matter of removing screws.

    More complex would be any center consul. You may need a shop manual for this. Or if some one has done it.

    >>>>>Action
  3. Jmba1

    Jmba1 New Member

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    Thanks Action,
    The front seat is not a bench. I hadn't considered that the console may need to be removed. I need to look up the details on that process As luck has it, it just started raining and we're due for rain almost every day for the next week. Without garage space, gotta work around mother nature.
    Thank you!.
  4. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    A $200 canopy from Costco may be a solution.

    And thinking about things, may be the consul can be left in it. Cover the consul in plastic. After everything else is removed drape the carpet over the consul. Let the drying begin. You may need to help the situation with some space heaters.

    And wish you could pipe in some of that liquid sunshine. Humidity here is in the 7 to 12% range. Which means drier than a popcorn fart. Temps will cool down later this week and for now highs will be flirting with the triple digit mark.

    >>>>>>>Action
  5. Jmba1

    Jmba1 New Member

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    Thanks Action,
    Popcorn fart, made me laugh.
    Jealous of the low humidity.. we're at 75% at the moment in the mid-80s. at 7%, I should ship the carpet to you and let it sit outside for about ten minutes. I haven't owned a space heater since moving south but that is an excellent idea.. can get a couple cheap ones through amazon... an check out a canopy, too.
    The leak is definitely the sun roof. On closer inspection, the headliner is sagging about the edge of the sunroof... that will be the subject of a later post, or maybe I'll seal it up with FlexSeal.
    Thanks!
  6. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    Not sure I would use flex seal. I know advertising works. But that product may only work if you don't care what your vehicle looks like.

    A sun roof will have drain holes. With the kind of humidity you have, mold can be a big issue in those holes if any debris gets in there. Make sure the drain holes are open and flowing water.

    Things that can help a fairly good sealed roof. Wax and conditioner. Most any car wax will keep the water beaded up and rolling off of the metal in and around the roof. Hey it is always better that the water does not get past the joint, then have to deal with the water after it is past the joint of a closed roof.

    In addition for your situation, I would open the roof and wax the channel & sealing area around the opening. If water does get past the roof joint at least it will be encouraged to go into the drain and not stick around.

    Conditioner - I use a leather conditioner on nearly everything rubber and plastic. (and of course leather) I do this for a different reason. It is flipping dry out here and that conditioner gives the interior plastic/leather and exterior plastic/rubber some much needed help battling the sun. And that protectant could work for you as well in the rubber seal around the moving roof part. Again open the roof, clean the seal and sealing area. Coat the rubber fuzzy seal. Again the goal is to keep water from even getting past the sealing joint.

    Lastly you might consider a glass product. RainX This product coats the glass like wax. And lasts much longer than wax too. Again coating the glass roof encourages the water to bead up and slide off of the surface. Such that the water does not stay put. Especially on a moving vehicle.

    Good luck

    >>>>>>>Action
  7. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    Oh as a post script, the reason there are drain holes in the channel of a sun/moon roof is because the seal is not designed to be absolutely water tight under all conditions. To achieve that goal of water tight under all conditions all of the time the cost of the sun/moon roof would double or triple. So drain holes are built into the front corner(s). Those drain holes are critical to keeping water out of the interior of the vehicle. If they were not there the channel would get overwhelmed and leak into the interior.

    I used to live and work in a car dealership in the Puget Sound area. I have seen a fair amount of water leaks.

    Action
  8. Jmba1

    Jmba1 New Member

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    Thanks Action,
    Appreciate your insight. These are great recommendations I will start working... as soon as it stops raining. ;-)
  9. Jmba1

    Jmba1 New Member

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    40703403-F152-47F9-9AB5-0FB67ADC987A.jpeg 269DFBB4-1B31-412A-928B-949B512AEFD5.jpeg 75B91ACF-0EC8-4A14-9F4D-6FA7EFDF68BA.jpeg E8DAEE0D-AEED-443F-BA27-B615537105A5.jpeg Following up:
    On Wednesday, I bought an inexpensive dehumidifier and put it inside the Escape for the past few days. It removed around 7 cups of water. All the carpet and cushion, except for under the drivers seat, dried completely.
    Driver side carpet was still pretty damp, so I removed the driver’s seat yesterday and pulled the carpet back. By the way, the center console does not need to be removed to pull up the carpet The floor pan still had some standing water, which i dried with some towels, but the cushion was pretty wet. Let the dehumidifier run some more and it pulled another cup. It should be good in another day or so.

    Turns out, the sunroof is worse off than i thought. On closer inspection, there roof is rusting (Flaking) around the sunroof opening and water is getting past the seal. (See pics) Worse yet, the drain holes aren't draining. I put some water in the channel, and it didn't drain. I ran about 40 inches of weed eater cord down both channels, but water didnt budge, so thats not a great sign.
    Im guessing a body shop could do something with the body rust but that may cost more than the thing is worth.
    Last edited by a moderator: May 24, 2020
  10. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Yes you have some serious damage there
    It looks like someone tried to repair it before
  11. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    That has been going on for a long time.

    Did the weed eater cord hit an obstruction?


    >>Action
  12. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    I believe the drains go through the A pillar and then the cowl to under the car.
    Do you have a shop manual?

    >>>>Action
  13. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    Searching the net I found this. It looks like there is a front and rear drain.

    >>>>>Action
    original.jpg
  14. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    Looks like the rear drain makes a 90 degree bend. Which may be difficult to get a line down there.

    Do you have access to compressed air?
    If so you might blow through the drain hose.

    >>>>Action 2010-05-28_150717_2010-05-28_100709.jpg 2010-05-28_150706_2010-05-28_100651.jpg
    Dominick 1 likes this.
  15. Jmba1

    Jmba1 New Member

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    Good morning,
    Thanks Dominick and Action!
    Yea, this is not my daily driver, and I don't keep an eye on it as i probably should- I adopted it through marriage and it had been purchased used before, so I don't know the history.
    Yes, the weed eater cord hit some obstruction... it just wouldn't go any further.. felt solid, not like bits of debris, so may have been a sharp turn. I pushed firmly on it but didn't want to risk rupturing the tube.
    I don’t have a shop manual so @Action, thanks for the pictures. I didn't know about the rear drain. I’ll try the weed eater cord there and try compressed air.
  16. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    If you are going to do your own repairs you will save a lot on labor. However knowing what to do could cost you. Spend $60 and get the info:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-Escap...509004?hash=item444e5d3b4c:g:1DgAAOSwBq9d8Vf9

    >>>>>>Action
  17. Jmba1

    Jmba1 New Member

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    Thanks Action for the link to the manuals.
    I’ve considered doing the body work but the precision it may require in this case may be beyond my skill level. Will probably talk to a body shop just to consider all options. Pulled another three cups of water out through the humidifier yesterday. Never knew how much water pads can hold.
  18. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    Body and paint skills are something I would like to learn. For now some of my rides need professional help in the paint department.

    Action

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