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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i finally got a pressure gauge, and to see if i got good equal pressure threw the cylinders. well........ 155, 150, 155, 160, 145, 50, 155, 160...... :incazzato::incazzato::incazzato:so my pops told me to check the head gasket since the one next too it is low number (145) compared to the rest, so this will be my FIRST time ever attempting this, so im gonna ask a few questions here..... So i have the sockets, extentions, scraper, wire brush, 3 torque wrenches( just happened to have them) anything else i need besides gaskets? im doing both sides just to have that ease of mind that I did it. would anything else be a good time to change at this point? thanks in advance!


James

Truck specs are in signature =P
 

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PBblaster or WD40, a straight edge to check for head warpage.

Camera. Take pictures of things as they come off so you have a reference of how things go back together. Mark vacuum lines so they don't get confused. Many recommend putting bolts back into the exact same holes that they came out of. Some will use a piece of cardboard with holes punched in them to mark the locations of the bolts.

Good luck and have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ok cool, thanks for the advice, my dad said compared to the cars and trucks these days, mine will be like 75% easyer to do than those. lol cause we all know its 10% cost, 90% Labor. LOL
 

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Case of beer & a radio is about all you're missing...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
actually a case of beer is already in the fridge with a cooler waiting for ice. hahaha one step ahead :lol:
 

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My first head gasket change was when I was about 15. I had done minor stuff and pretty much knew the basics about cars so I figured I could do it. Well I don't know if I wasn't thinking that day or if I just didn't know anything about cars at the time but I didn't drain the coolant first....That was a big mess to say the least. Just thought I would share a pointless story with you guys.
 

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So i finally got a pressure gauge, and to see if i got good equal pressure threw the cylinders. well........ 155, 150, 155, 160, 145, 50, 155, 160...... :incazzato::incazzato::incazzato:so my pops told me to check the head gasket since the one next too it is low number (145) compared to the rest, so this will be my FIRST time ever attempting this, so im gonna ask a few questions here..... So i have the sockets, extentions, scraper, wire brush, 3 torque wrenches( just happened to have them) anything else i need besides gaskets? im doing both sides just to have that ease of mind that I did it. would anything else be a good time to change at this point? thanks in advance!


James

Truck specs are in signature =P
A cylinder leak down is a more definitive test.
The adjacent cylinder having low pressure (145) isn't low enough to indicate a head gasket IMO.
It could be valves or rings instead of a head gasket. Squirt a little oil in the cylinder then do another compression test in the offending cylinder. IF the pressures come up it's likely the piston rings. If it stays the same then it could be valves or a head gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So um i took off the vavle cover.... and it has coolant in there..... and not to mention it is NOTHING like the 302 bolts it shows on the diagram, It has 6 inside, and the others underneath the exhaust manafold, i have not clue what motor i have now. please help im am really close to junking this if another thing goes wrong...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nevermind, I know its the right pattern was looking at the diagram wrong. sorry. but still coolant in the valve area
 

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torque wrench and a repair manual,just in case no one knows the torque values and head and intake torque sequence
my 2 cents
 

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Well at least you know where the coolant is coming from.Just take your time and work clean.Your not working flat rate so you have as much time as you need.Having a pretty much emissions free truck makes the job that much easier.You have a manual,read it and understand it before you just throw caution to the wind.Just remember there is plenty of help here and all you have to do is ask.:wink5:

P/s hers a little reminder that the books sometimes don't tell you.make sure that the head bolt holes are clean before you put the bolts back in.Fluid doesn't compress and it will give you false torque readings.
 

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Another but of advice I came across when I built my 89 5.0L efi engine. Make sure there is a thread sealint or pipe dop on the bolt threads for the ones that go into the coolant channels through the block. And you go in the proper tourqe pattern for the head bolts, if not it may not seal properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the info, gonna try to get asmuch done this weekend as i can, ill take pictures and post if something else goes wrong.....
 

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put blue RTV on the threads of the head bolts that go under the valve covers. while you're in there check to see how deep the ridge is on the top of the cylinder walls...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
how deep the ridge is? i dont understand sorry :confused5:
 
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