starting problem with my '67 f-250
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You need fuel, compression and spark.
First check for blown fuse(s).
1. Check for fuel by looking down the carburetor and opening the throttle. You should get a spray of fuel from the accelerator pump.
2. If that is good, check for spark at the plugs. Use an old spark plug and take a wire off one of the cylinders and connect to the test spark plug. Ground the plug on metal, not near the carburetor and crank the engine. You should see a strong blue spark.
3. If no spark, pull the distributor cap and have someone crank the engine. Look at the rotor to see if it turns. If not you have a broken roll pin on the distributor gear. If it turns, check the points if so equipped to make sure there is at least a .025 gap. Check the cap and rotor for carbon tracks, especially from the center contact.
4. Check for 12 volts at the points if all else looks good. If no voltage check for voltage at the coil primary. If voltage at the coil, check for broken lead to distributor.
5. If no voltage at the coil check for voltage at the :1 ignition switch. 2. The primary resistance wire or ballast resistor. 3. Trace wiring if no voltage and possibly broken ign switch. 4. Check at the starter solenoid "S" terminal for battery voltage when cranking - this by-passes the ballast resistor to supply full battery voltage to the ign coil when cranking.
5. Check compression.
That should keep ya busy a for a couple of minutes.
And don't tell me its a diesel.
First check for blown fuse(s).
1. Check for fuel by looking down the carburetor and opening the throttle. You should get a spray of fuel from the accelerator pump.
2. If that is good, check for spark at the plugs. Use an old spark plug and take a wire off one of the cylinders and connect to the test spark plug. Ground the plug on metal, not near the carburetor and crank the engine. You should see a strong blue spark.
3. If no spark, pull the distributor cap and have someone crank the engine. Look at the rotor to see if it turns. If not you have a broken roll pin on the distributor gear. If it turns, check the points if so equipped to make sure there is at least a .025 gap. Check the cap and rotor for carbon tracks, especially from the center contact.
4. Check for 12 volts at the points if all else looks good. If no voltage check for voltage at the coil primary. If voltage at the coil, check for broken lead to distributor.
5. If no voltage at the coil check for voltage at the :1 ignition switch. 2. The primary resistance wire or ballast resistor. 3. Trace wiring if no voltage and possibly broken ign switch. 4. Check at the starter solenoid "S" terminal for battery voltage when cranking - this by-passes the ballast resistor to supply full battery voltage to the ign coil when cranking.
5. Check compression.
That should keep ya busy a for a couple of minutes.
And don't tell me its a diesel.
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You can eliminate a fuel problem real quick with a shot of starting fluid. If it tries to start with that. then you have a fuel pump problem...
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Royesses, That was a very nice post.... good job! 
printman31, I learned over the last few years to try to NOT use absolutes when I make statements. If ether worked, I agree that would pretty much confirm that it is a fuel problem, but it wouldn't differenciate between a clogged fuel filter, broken diaphragm in the fuel pump, or a dry rotted fuel line that was sucking air.
printman31, I learned over the last few years to try to NOT use absolutes when I make statements. If ether worked, I agree that would pretty much confirm that it is a fuel problem, but it wouldn't differenciate between a clogged fuel filter, broken diaphragm in the fuel pump, or a dry rotted fuel line that was sucking air.
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Maybe I should've chose the words better... Wasn't trying to say it would be an absolute fuel pump problem.. Of course there would be other possibilities..Like the ones you mentioned..Even though I've never had a clogged fuel filter before..Maybe because I always purchased the see through filter that you could clean out.. But have had vapor lock.Common problem with older cars that run the mechanical fuel pump..Clogged primaries,Weak fuel line that sucks closed.. My train of thought here is that I would want to eliminate a fuel problem before diagnosing electronics. And a blast of starting fluid would rule it out or not faster than pulling out any tools..
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Royesses, That was a very nice post.... good job!
Thanx Poppy
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That's a real bummer.. Some coward who has to hide...Who have you had a dispute with lately???someone cut my fuel line from tank to fuel pump, that was nice of them.
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i haven't had a conflict with anyone, where my truck is parked is a pass only parking spot at a huge apt. complex. my truck has a pass clearly displayed but maybe some didn't like that i owned 2 vehicles, so if your vehicles does not move for 72 hours automatic tow away. so maybe someone really needed to park their car, just a guess
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Are you sure that someone actually CUT your line? That hardly makes sense. What kind of shape is the fuel line in? Is it dry rotted?
That would require someone to crawl under the truck. It's much easier to give you a flat or four. Not only that, it would give you an excuse to keep your truck parked in the spot that they might want.
Might want to put a locking gas cap on.
That would require someone to crawl under the truck. It's much easier to give you a flat or four. Not only that, it would give you an excuse to keep your truck parked in the spot that they might want.
Might want to put a locking gas cap on.
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