Ford Automobiles banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was interested if anyone has done a "mild" stereo in their Galaxie. Once I finish my engine project I'll be looking to put some tunes into my 68 'vert. Wondering what others have done. I'd like something like like I have in my stock mustang, around a 1000 watts, two 10" subs (2002 mach 1000 audio). Share your pics and installs!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Sorry, no pictures; but what I have in my 64 is a Pioneer head unit mounted on the floor, just in front of the B&M floor shifter. It is in a custom hard mount with carpet to match the floors, so it blends in with the floor, I left the OEM radio in the dash for looks. I have 5" round speakers under the front seat and 6x9's in the rear deck, with 2 12" subs built into the rear quarter panels in the trunk. THe amp's are built into a wall behind the rear seat, between the rear seat and spare tire. I has a 12 disk CD player in the trunk, on the blink right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
I'm not to old, 55 years young, but my Galaxie has a good system ad in above, running close to 1000watts and so does my Bronco. But my wifes Areostarr is the one you have to look out for, she has 4' speakers in the dash, 6x9's in the middle and 5"in the rear deck with 2 12" Rockford Fosgate subs. There is enough power to light a small town in the Areo. I can hear her turning off the hiway almost 1/2 mile away with that thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
890 Posts
i like the stereo that came in jonzo's fairmont. i still think ford made/makes the best factory sound system
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,184 Posts
To do it right,go with a separate alternator and a yellow top battery.And don't forget to size the capacitor correctly,you don't want your lights dimming when the Who's John Entwhistle gets into a nasty riff.:yesnod:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,028 Posts
or when listening to the intro of Golden Country-REO speedwagon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
I'm making a center console on my 66. It will hold a single din receiver (ipod ready), five 2" gauges, and a 5 1/4 speaker on each side. No pics yet sorry.

I am big into clarity not so much the shake all the rust out bass. I'll have 6x9's in the rear deck. Components will be powered by a 100x4 rms amp. For the lows I'll be happy with the Alpine type X 10".

I don't know how familiar you are with electronics, not trying to insult any one's intelligence.

1. 95% of the time, you get what you pay for. Some of those Walmart systems will blow your mind though!

2. Don't pay any attention to the advertised PEAK output. You want RMS (Root Mean Square). Basically the actual output after loosing power through electrical resistance (Ohms). I always try to get speakers that need about 90% of what the amp is capable of. Drop the amp to 80% working capacity. This way the speakers have a 10% cushion and the more expensive amp has 20%. Don't want to run at max unless it's nice and cold. Electronics and heat don't get along.

3. Amplifiers don't just make things louder. They amplify the signal meaning that more of the signal spectrum will be heard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
890 Posts
wow. i never realized what is involved, and yet, i understood everything you said...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
There's a whole lot more than that if you want to get technical with it. Like the dimensions of the box and if it's to be ported or not.

But here's a couple pics of my center console. I just finished cutting holes for gauges. It is bent out of shape slightly but nothing a quick couple of pulls and twists can't fix. That's 22Ga sheet metal from Lowes. Thin enough to work with and strong enough to be nice and sturdy after a bunch of holes get cut in it. Now I'll be able to see gauges without looking through holes in steering wheel. I'm going to wait to install everything in one go so that stuff doesn't have to be disconnected and reconnected a bunch of times. That

console2.JPG

console.JPG
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,184 Posts
Depends on the amp type.This refers to the way the amplifier operates. The three types that are most likely to be encountered are A, A/B, and D. Class A amplifiers are the least efficient in terms of power consumption, staying on continually, but also have better sound in general than A/B amplifiers. They are very, very rare in car audio. Some argue non-existent but in any case don't expect to see any. Class A/B amplifiers are more efficient than the class A design and are the most common type. Almost all amplifiers in the car audio market are of the A/B design. Class D amplifiers are usually reserved for high power subwoofer amplifiers and can reach efficiencies in the 80%+ range. This design can therefore be smaller, uses less current and produces less heat than the other classes. However there are some full range Class D amplifiers available
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top