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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1963 Falcon, 6 cylinder, 170 cubic inch, 2.8 liter

Runs smooth at idle and in gears when cold. Would go in and out of all gears, no problem. After driving 10 miles and getting warm it dies when put in gear, especially reverse. Once restarted it would run rough. Let it sit a half an hour to cool and it runs fine again.

Replaced:
Carburetor
Ignition Coil
Rotor, Condenser, Distributor Cap
Plugs
Wires

Just discovered that it has essentially NO vacuum at the port in the carburetor going to the distributor. What would cause the a lack of vacuum at the carb? How do I fix it? Would this have to do with the problem noted above?

Any help much appreciated.
 

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there should be a valve in the vac line that goes to your dizzy. there is a possibility that is not working anymore...
if it does have one, take the whole hose off, and put a straight one on it see of it makes a difference.
are all ports on the carb capped off if not in use? is any of the rubber dry, or cracked? are any loose?
 

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Check ALL vacuum lines, you may have leaks wreaking havoc in other places.Do the ether test on all vacuum related parts, the engine will rev if a leak is present, also check the manifold perimeter.
 

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I dont think a 63 model year has any one way air valves or too many vacuum lines on the engine. if you have no vacuum to the dizzy with engine at idle, this would be normal. the vac line is connected to the carb port above the butterfly. vac will only increase when you open the butterfly(increase engine speed)
no, i dont have a solution to your problem at this time, im just trying to steer you in the right direction
 

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This has nothing to do with vacuum.
When you replaced the rotor did you have a clip on the distributor shaft that holds the rotor solid.
When left off the rotor will swing back and forth negating the timing.
 

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spark control

This has nothing to do with vacuum.
When you replaced the rotor did you have a clip on the distributor shaft that holds the rotor solid.
When left off the rotor will swing back and forth negating the timing.
Dominick, i would agree with you but 63falcon stated in the first post that it runs fine when cold which make me lean twards the spark control valve. Granted i dont know much about this valve cause ive never dealt with it. That was a carryover from the fifties.
 

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I was just tossing that out there.
for something to be aware of because I've seen a lot of times where people don't know that it is required.
I think they make or did make a vacuum valve that could be put inline
that may help the problem.
Sorry for the confusion.
 

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no worries

I was just tossing that out there.
for something to be aware of because I've seen a lot of times where people don't know that it is required.
I think they make or did make a vacuum valve that could be put inline
that may help the problem.
Sorry for the confusion.
no worries, dominick, like i said, i would agree with you, that was an issue with people that dont know,but that would creat that condition at any time. but 63falcon stated when it warms up is when the problem starts. the engine as it warms up does not produce enough vaccum to advance the timing under load . that control valve physically advances the distributor. You can see the distributor move. mabey that valve is bad.
 

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dont think so

Thats just a one way valve. That doesnt increase vacuum but it also wouldnt let air go in the opposite direction basically meaning once the vacuum goes into the dist the advance would be maxed at all times.( tried that once...once:confused5:)
 

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i dont know, mabey 63falcon can answer it. I was assuming it was a stick cause of the ot. but reading it again and again it could be either:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The falcon has the automatic 2 speed FordOMatic. (That's what the manual says. But the trannie pan gasket wasn't the one AutoZone and O'Reily had in there system. When drained the transmission fluid we created out own gasket, cause theirs didn't fit. Still think it's probably a FordOMatic. Grandfather was the second owner of the car. Never mentioned anything about a different transmission. Did mention it had a different rear end.)

There is no vacuum from carb to distributer at idle. I returned the gauge for testing pressure. Can I just put my finger over the port on the carb and rev the engine to see if it sucks to determine if it has vacuum to some degree? (Did this before on the distributer side and it–not sure what exactly–made a loud bang. Maybe backfired, maybe popped the diaphragm in the vacuum advance. This was while testing. Issue was present before bang.)

I don't remember the Rotor having a clip. I'll have to check.
 

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There is no vacuum from carb to distributer at idle. I returned the gauge for testing pressure. Can I just put my finger over the port on the carb and rev the engine to see if it sucks to determine if it has vacuum to some degree?
Yes. The vacuum should be equivelant to the amount of vacuum if you were to manually suck real hard on a straw.
 

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63 do you know if you have a spark control valve. I know ive suggested this, but to me this is where the symptoms are leading to
just tryin to help
 

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Runs smooth at idle and in gears when cold. Would go in and out of all gears, no problem. After driving 10 miles and getting warm it dies when put in gear, especially reverse. Once restarted it would run rough. Let it sit a half an hour to cool and it runs fine again.
Once he heats up is it running rich?
Could it be the carburetor needs to be adjusted?
WHen it is really cold, the choke should be closed, and eventually open.
Does it eventually run more poorly as it heats?

All this discussion about a timiing advance, is interesting, but would improper, or lack of timing advance, cause it to stall, and run rough?

------------------------

In another direction:
Electrical resistance is increased when components are heated.
Since you replaced all of your ignition componenets, and they are assumed good, are all of your connections clean and tight? Are you certain that the points are properly set? You cleaned the points backing plate before you mounted the points and condensor?

Your battery is in good shape, and the cables are clean and tight, and the alternator is charging properly? right?
 

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hey, here is my last thought...Vapor lock? when the vehicle warms up the fuel gets low in the carb, when you hit reverse the jolt from the engagement affects the float level, shoots more fuel into the engine and it dies, may be why after 20 min it start up again..
just a thought
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ya, vapor lock had crossed my mind since as soon as it cooled down it would run fine again. The only thing that keeps me from heading in that direction is that when it dies, liquid gas shoots out the carb.
 

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Wow! Vapor lock! Who can remember that far back? ;)
 
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