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Discussion Starter #1
Unfortunately it looks like I have some people in my new neighborhood paying a little too much attention to my auto and for the first time I'm feeling a need to add some security system(s) to old yeller. I think just a basic remote arm system would do, not interested at all in remote start or unlock. I'm not familiar with modern alarm systems, but here's what I 'think' I need...

  • Door switches for all 5 doors (rear hatch). Probably a PITA to install but that's only an initial idea.
  • 'Bump' alarm (not sure what it would be called) for if a window breaks or if something is jarred
  • Geo-location function like a low track or something similar
Additionally I'd like to install possibly 2 start kill switches. I'm not sure where inline these are normally installed but my impression is that directly in line with the key ignition switch would be common. But then what if someone jumps the starter with a screwdriver...would this type of switch work in that instance? So that leads me to the idea of a second ignition kill switch which would either be wired between the battery and starter motor, or between the starter motor and ground.

And last...security lugs.

So am I over thinking this here? What's your recommendation for what I really need and maybe a good but economic alarm system that can get this done?
 

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What kind of vehicle?

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Discussion Starter #3
It's my 96 Cherokee. I forgot to mention the ppl looking at it are just the kind of mechanically inclined rednecks who would know how jack it before you even knew. That's why I've put some thought into this. So far I seem to be settling on some kind of alarm with a kill switch or two. The batt to starter switch would be done through a relay so the high current line wouldn't have to be piped into the cabin. Prob put a stick on the steering wheel as well.
 

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I do not know how the starter system is wired in that vehicle
Generally you would not want to modify the high current cables to the starter. This can cause some issues later on of no start WITH the key.

The control circuit for the high current circuit to the starter is what the ignition switch does. Adding a second switch to the low current control circuit would be cheap and effective. Getting a shop manual to know where that circuit is would be needed.

There are several types that steal cars.

The determined Pro - This guy will likely bring a truck and tow your ride away in seconds with the drive wheels off the ground. In a quarter mile better secure the vehicle to the tow truck and take it to a shop to do what ever they are seeking to do. This person is determined so barriers (alarms, ignition disabling devices or???) mean little. Usually they bring overwhelming odds to the table so they get their objective nearly 100% of the time. The best way to protect your ride from this guy is to store the ride in a locked garage.

The amateur car thieve - May have some tools but lacks the resources to be effective or overwhelming. This person is looking for opportunity. Put enough obstacles and this person moves on to an easier opportunity. However those obstacles are ones you have to over come too. It may be easier for you and it isn't the same. This person can be discouraged by fake barriers. A tiny red flashing LED light on the instrument panel or a generic warning stickers on the side windows. This person may have enough knowledge to understand stock systems but a non-stock system is an unknown. This person weighs risk versus return. An unknown is difficult to assess risk. Alarms, ignition disabling devices and other obstacles work on this person.

The joy rider - this person is looking for an open door. If some one leaves their vehicle unlocked (or any door open) they will walk in and do what ever they want in the moment. There is very little planning or forethought of the event. A locked car door and a steering wheel lock would be the only obstacle needed. They may have a "slim jim" if taht kind of thing works on your vehicle but anything else and the party is moving down the road.

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for the advice going against messing with those higher current wires. I really don't want to mess with those one way or another. Luckily I've gotten the advice to just interrupt the power to either the fuel pump or injectors at the relay. Trick here would be to get inventive where you put the interior on/of switch. Under the dash straight in front of the driver is not recommended. Alarm wired in line with ceiling light in conjunction w/ a kill switch and steering wheel lock as a deterrent should be enough to stop anybody outside of the professional truck driving thief like you've described above.

One guy suggested adding some kind of extra hood latch security as crow barring the hood would give easy access to defeating the alarm. Any idea how this could be done?
 

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If you installed an in line switch to the fuel pump (or fuel pump inertia switch) that wiring would be inside the car or under the car.
The person stealing the car would have to know where that switch is located to by-pass it and start the engine.

It is unlikely some one would use a crow bar to open the hood. That takes a lot of time (several minutes) and makes a lot of noise. Some one that does that kind of thing would not care if they were caught. Because they would be noticed. Either they own the car or they are getting arrested.

In the late 70s I had a black Ford E100 van. No windows except in the windshield and opening doors. The simplest theft deterrent I used was a two position toggle switch in line with the wire to the coil. Switched off and no current to the coil. The starter would crank until the battery was done. It was mounted under the instrument panel. Not very obvious and very effective.

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