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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 1996 Escort LX with a 1.9 liter SFI SOHC engine for which I am considering the installation of 4 new pistons, because one has been severly damaged; I have no idea how.

According to the factory manual the cylinder bore is suppose to be 82mm or 3.2300 in. across. I just completed going over them with a Fowler Dial Bore Gauge that was set up with a Fowler Caliper. The results were as follows:

At the top of the cylinder (top of piston travel):

Front to Back averaged .0007 under or 3.2293 inches across.
Side to Side averaged .0020 under or 3.2280 inches across.

At the bottom of the cylinder (bottom of piston travel):

Front to Back averaged .0015 under or 3.2285 inches across.
Side to Side averaged .0021 under or 3.2279 inches across.

For those that wonder if I set up the bore gauge correctly, I followed the following procedure:

1. I set the caliper to exactly 82mm / 3.2300 inches and
locked it in.

2. I used the #7 anvil (3.2") with the .02" spacer in the bore gauge and
then inserted the measuring head of the bore gauge between the
outside jaws of the caliper. I set the bore gauge to "0" at the point
where the needle stopped and began its return.

3. Set up like this, as I measured the cylinders and the needle began
to move, it approached and they passed over the "0" setting to the
measurements I mentioned above.

My questions are these:

1. Have I taken my measurements correctly, and if so:

2. Am I going to be able to use the stock size (red) pistons?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Not familiar with that tool but set up the way you describe and you insert the tool into the cylinder and the needle goes past the 0 wouldn't that indicate it going larger and not smaller?
 

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Either way you look at it you have an egg shaped bore and it will need to be bored,probably .030".The way it sits right now,you'll burn oil by the rings or snap a ring trying to fit ring end gap at the top and bottom of the cyl. So I guess the answer in a nut shell is you need to bore it .030" and get pistons and rings to match.Also have you checked the wrist pins and small bore on the rods?
 

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The cylinder bores on a used engine should be larger not smaller. The only way you will get a reading lower than expected is if:
1. The calipers are out of spec.
2. the dial bore gauge wasn't exactly in the center of the cylinder. You need to rock it back and forth allowing it to find the center. Take the highest bore reading you get.
 

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The cylinder bores on a used engine should be larger not smaller. The only way you will get a reading lower than expected is if:
1. The calipers are out of spec.
2. the dial bore gauge wasn't exactly in the center of the cylinder. You need to rock it back and forth allowing it to find the center. Take the highest bore reading you get.
or if for some odd reason someone re-sleeved them... or it really isn't the 1.9L but the 1.8L instead...
 

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You'll need to determine what wrecked the one bad piston. If you don't find out and you don't rectify it you may be back doing this repair all over again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Not familiar with that tool but set up the way you describe and you insert the tool into the cylinder and the needle goes past the 0 wouldn't that indicate it going larger and not smaller?
Canuck623, the needle on the bore gauge goes clockwise. After the bore gauge was squared up in the caliper set to 82mm / 3.2300 in., I turned the bezel and lined the "0" up with the needle. I placed the bore gauge in the cylinder with the anvil tipped down, then placed the opposite end of the measuring head against the back wall of the cylinder, and commenced to bring the anvil up along the front wall of the cylinder. As the measuring head depressed, the needle moved clockwise, but instead of stopping at "0" to indicate 82mm / 3.2300 in., it continued on past the "0" and gave the readings I indicated earlier before the needle reversed direction.. I may have screwed up, but I've been over this quite a few times. I believe I got it right. Thanks for the input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Either way you look at it you have an egg shaped bore and it will need to be bored,probably .030".The way it sits right now,you'll burn oil by the rings or snap a ring trying to fit ring end gap at the top and bottom of the cyl. So I guess the answer in a nut shell is you need to bore it .030" and get pistons and rings to match.Also have you checked the wrist pins and small bore on the rods?
Boghog, I realize the cylinders are no longer cylindrical, but it isn't by much; at worst they are only out by 14/10000ths. What has got me puzzled is why all of my measurements are under the 82mm / 3.2300 in. measurement that the cylinder is suppose to be. I'm going to set everything up again tomorrow and re-measure, but I'm pretty certain the results will be the same. Thanks for your help.
 

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no really, i remember a rochure that said the LX, and GT only had the 1.8L. the standrad escort got the 1.9L the 1.8 had more power...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The cylinder bores on a used engine should be larger not smaller. The only way you will get a reading lower than expected is if:
1. The calipers are out of spec.
2. the dial bore gauge wasn't exactly in the center of the cylinder. You need to rock it back and forth allowing it to find the center. Take the highest bore reading you get.
Cuda_jim, I hear what you're saying and I'm as dumbfounded as a man can get. As for the gauges, well, when I decided to tackle this job I had to beef up my tool inventory so I went out and got me some new tools, which included a brand new Fowler 72-646-300-0 Dial Bore Gauge and as well as a brand new Fowler 72-030-006-0 Caliper. They're dead on; I checked them against some of my friends equipment. I have been rocking the dial bore gauge back and forth as is required while taking the measurements as I've described to Canuck623 a few posts back. Thanks for the input.
 

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The bottom valve seal/seat will come/pop out and do the piston/pistons in. That's what happened to my 1995. ford has had trouble with this condition. :)-O) Will be best to get a new block.
 

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no really, i remember a rochure that said the LX, and GT only had the 1.8L. the standrad escort got the 1.9L the 1.8 had more power...

The 1.8 was a DOHC engine. The 1.9 was a SOHC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
or if for some odd reason someone re-sleeved them... or it really isn't the 1.9L but the 1.8L instead...
Ashzo77, I got the car two years ago when it had 31000 miles on it. It has some 52000 miles on it now. I removed the head, and finding it damaged, I sent the core to and got a fine replacement for it from J & C Enterprises out of Fairmont, WV. The two heads are identical and belong to the 1.9L engine. Thanks for the input, and congratulations.
 

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The bottom valve seal/seat will come/pop out and do the piston/pistons in. That's what happened to my 1995. ford has had trouble with this condition. :)-O) Will be best to get a new block.
your engine couldn't make up it's mind on what had happened to it?

If you do get a new engine, go with the Mazda 1.8L, i was mistaken about your car. it was the LX-E i was thinking of...

I've helped jonzo work on his 1996 Ford Escort RS Cosworth , the racing one. granted it was a twin turbo 2.0L 4wd 5 speed, but it was also british...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The bottom valve seal/seat will come/pop out and do the piston/pistons in. That's what happened to my 1995. ford has had trouble with this condition. :)-O) Will be best to get a new block.
Searcher64, I've heard about the valve seat problem and the new head I got out of WV was rebuilt with that problem eliminated. J & C Enterprises utilizes upgraded valve seats in the remanufacturing process. I'm sure the block is OK, well let's hope so. I've gone to far in this direction to change course now. Thanks for the tip.
 
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