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Discussion Starter #1
Well, we're back for another season. I didn't roll the car off a cliff or blow it up or anything over the winter.

The first few steps of this season will be to finish the dash clock/dome light switch shenanigans from last fall. Last I knew, the dome light circuit was popping fuses, but I think I know why. Then we move on to trying to move the engine back so my Mark VIII fan will fit. I really think the engine is sitting unnaturally far forward, so I should be able to shift it back enough just by loosening things and sliding them back. But if not, my QA1 K-member has 1 inch rearward mounting holes I can use.

Other than that, I bought some shiney new things to jump start my motivation!

ai.imgur.com_7cF8UiA.jpg


That's a new console piece sold by LMR that solves the Fox body cupholder problem! SO cool, I had to have one. I also grabbed some locking bolts for my valve covers so those don't back out and leak, a driveshaft safety loop and a 60-pin extension harness so I can finally move my ECM out of the footwell and under the seat.

Should be fun! I think winter's finally had its last gasp here, so maybe I'll even start this weekend! This year I kind of vowed not to start anything new so that I don't spend so much time trying to put the car back together to make shows. I have my few new things, some left-over projects from last year to finish up, and that will hopefully be it. I don't think i'm going to be able to get away with not doing real diagnosis on my fuel leak. I hope I don't need a new fuel rail because those pretty much can't be had unless you risk used parts. And performance rails and new injectors are expensive.

I also may get a pretty major infusion of cash this year. If I do, I will bring the car to a shop and have them sort out the bottom end of my engine. It's the only part of the (parts) car I haven't re-done in some way. We're talking new bearings all around, rings, maybe balance the pistons... and that custom cam I've been talking about. And then a dyno tune with a piggyback chip thingy for my ECM.
 

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Well, we're back for another season. I didn't roll the car off a cliff or blow it up or anything over the winter.

The first few steps of this season will be to finish the dash clock/dome light switch shenanigans from last fall. Last I knew, the dome light circuit was popping fuses, but I think I know why. Then we move on to trying to move the engine back so my Mark VIII fan will fit. I really think the engine is sitting unnaturally far forward, so I should be able to shift it back enough just by loosening things and sliding them back. But if not, my QA1 K-member has 1 inch rearward mounting holes I can use.

Other than that, I bought some shiney new things to jump start my motivation!

View attachment 31993

That's a new console piece sold by LMR that solves the Fox body cupholder problem! SO cool, I had to have one. I also grabbed some locking bolts for my valve covers so those don't back out and leak, a driveshaft safety loop and a 60-pin extension harness so I can finally move my ECM out of the footwell and under the seat.

Should be fun! I think winter's finally had its last gasp here, so maybe I'll even start this weekend! This year I kind of vowed not to start anything new so that I don't spend so much time trying to put the car back together to make shows. I have my few new things, some left-over projects from last year to finish up, and that will hopefully be it. I don't think i'm going to be able to get away with not doing real diagnosis on my fuel leak. I hope I don't need a new fuel rail because those pretty much can't be had unless you risk used parts. And performance rails and new injectors are expensive.

I also may get a pretty major infusion of cash this year. If I do, I will bring the car to a shop and have them sort out the bottom end of my engine. It's the only part of the (parts) car I haven't re-done in some way. We're talking new bearings all around, rings, maybe balance the pistons... and that custom cam I've been talking about. And then a dyno tune with a piggyback chip thingy for my ECM.
Good to hear from you
 

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Long time no post!!!!

Glad to see you still have the ride and didn't do something like sell it for a million dollars.

Nothing like new and shiny to get some motivation.

>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys. I ended up getting crazy sick this past weekend, so no car work. The weather looked really nice too. Oh well.

I was looking around at what's available locally, and I found this performance shop that sells their own rebuilt shortblocks. It's a pretty good deal at about $2800 compared to most I've seen. That's with forged pistons too! 9.5:1 compression. I do worry a bit if we start to get into piston to valve clearance issues since stock for my engine is 9.1:1. I'd rather not do anything with my heads at this point if I can help it. They are pretty good as they are, slightly massaged rebuilt GT40Ps. Although I've been thinking about upgrading the rockers.

Only thing is, the price of the shortblock is more than I was looking to spend on just that portion. I was hoping to the rebuild AND tune under $3K. Not sure if that'll be possible though.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm not sure about the warranty. I can't find mention of one.

The company is Hi Tech Motorsport. I'm not really sure how it all works. If I do one of those packages, is the intention that I bring it home and install it myself? If so, I don't really know anything about checking piston to valve clearance. I'm sure you're right though, they would know. A little bump in compression would be nice. Nothing too radical, just maybe maximize what the (mostly) stock parts are capable of.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was in contact with Hi Tech today. Apparently they no longer offer that package. And it doesn't sound like they do warranties either. I have a request in for quote from Sampson Engines to have them do the rebuild. Should be interesting. I have NO idea what to expect for price.

I poked my head under the car to see what I'm dealing with for moving the engine back and for the driveshaft loop projects. The loop looks to be a pretty simple deal, and it's self explanatory where it goes, despite it not looking like it in photos. As for moving the engine back, I think it will be very happy moved back. Things will line up better than they do now, in fact. I think maybe when we installed that k-member, we might have installed the engine wrong, haha.
 

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I'm not sure about the warranty. I can't find mention of one.

The company is Hi Tech Motorsport. I'm not really sure how it all works. If I do one of those packages, is the intention that I bring it home and install it myself? If so, I don't really know anything about checking piston to valve clearance. I'm sure you're right though, they would know. A little bump in compression would be nice. Nothing too radical, just maybe maximize what the (mostly) stock parts are capable of.
Give them a call...I would be looking for a warranty. They definitely should be able to help on clearances.
Also you can double check it when you do get tge short block. Set a head on it with gaskets an place clay or even PlayDoe on top of a piston then rotate the engine. Even set a couple push tubes in to get valves moving.
There are also thicker head gaskets available to help clearances.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Eric, see above. I think you might've missed my most recent reply. We posted at about the same time.

Spent some time straightening my work area up, sweeping the garage and just getting ready for the season. As a way to get started, I decided to stick the "Electronic Fuel Injection" emblem on the trunk lid.

ai.imgur.com_tcvzcZX.jpg


Then I had some time to fight with my stupid dome light & clock project. I tried several things and blew through about 6 fuses before I found the actual problem. That's right! I finally exorcised that demon!! Turns out, I had crushed one of the wires at the steering column bracket during a hasty re-assembly. Ugh. It's really nice to have that done though. I think I'm going to just put the interior back together rather than do the illuminated entry project now while it's apart. I'm anxious to get that engine moved back and the car off to the shop to have the engine work done. I might squeeze in the cupholder panel project too beforehand. Anyway, good day today!
 

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Eric, see above. I think you might've missed my most recent reply. We posted at about the same time.

Spent some time straightening my work area up, sweeping the garage and just getting ready for the season. As a way to get started, I decided to stick the "Electronic Fuel Injection" emblem on the trunk lid.

View attachment 32553

Then I had some time to fight with my stupid dome light & clock project. I tried several things and blew through about 6 fuses before I found the actual problem. That's right! I finally exorcised that demon!! Turns out, I had crushed one of the wires at the steering column bracket during a hasty re-assembly. Ugh. It's really nice to have that done though. I think I'm going to just put the interior back together rather than do the illuminated entry project now while it's apart. I'm anxious to get that engine moved back and the car off to the shop to have the engine work done. I might squeeze in the cupholder panel project too beforehand. Anyway, good day today!

Haha, I see it now!
Have you thought about "Jasper" they are Awsome and have warranty. Thats where my 351w cam from. I have bought 2 engines from them and would do it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, maybe. Looks like their cost is about $2600 shipped. How did you get yours? I think i remember you did all the work to and install yourself, correct? Did you have to go through the local installer to get it?

That warranty is nice, but, it looks like they come with heads. I'd rather not pay for them if i don't have to since i wouldn't use them. I just don't want to deal with it. They do seem sort of flexible though. I'll have to call them.

Also, I would like the rotating assembly balanced, although that's not a deal breaker.

And then there's the cam swap I want to do. I'd like it degreed, and that looks like a pretty involved process I'd rather not attempt myself.
 

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In all likelihood if the engine passes the initial start up or first hour of operation a warranty isn't needed for the most part. With good maintenance the engine will last a long time.

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, I'm thinking not having a warranty isn't going to be a deal breaker either.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Alright here's the final result of the clock project. Put the interior back together today.

ai.imgur.com_25kQ8GA.jpg


You like how the new footwell lamp illuminates how badly I need to vacuum? haha
 

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A Fairmont never looked so good on the inside. White specs and all!

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank you!

Jasper got back to my inquiry. I guess they don't want to just sell me a shortblock. Although, I did learn on Truck Tech that you can degree a cam without heads...
 

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Jasper is a huge production engine remanufacturer. They also provide a very long warranty. With this type of operation, custom orders and/or partial assemblies become an issue. Either with added labor to sell the disassembled product or the possibility of a warranty claim from an issue of parts that they had no control over. Or both.

A custom engine shop or at least a smaller engine remanufacture that can be flexible would be a better alternative. Or buy an entire engine, use the short block and sell the rest.

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Discussion Starter #18
Had an interesting day of car work yesterday. First, I finally added some washers to the rear bolts on my k-member where the bolt heads were sunk in where I had enlarged the holes to fit the early fox nut plate. Kind of a safety thing, there.

Second, I went to move my engine back, as my k-member allows. I still think it was unnaturally far forward before. I had all sorts of things getting in my way. I rounded the bolt head on one of the engine mount bolts into the block, so i had to jack the engine up super-high to get it to move. Then things kept getting wedged because of how high i had the engine. Exhaust, hoses and things at the back of the intake and so on. Then I had to enlarge my shifter hole to make room for it to move back. Fun stuff. I pretty much had to quit right after getting the engine back on its mounts in its new position. Since, I didn't finish, no pics yet.

I could be wrong, but the thing looks like it moved back like SIX inches, rather than the ONE inch QA1 says those rear mount holes move it. My driveshaft is jammed all the way into the trans. So obviously that's not going to work. I'll find out more when i get back to it, but that's a bit frustrating. Should be plenty of room for that fan now though! Oh, and I ordered my Flowtech cam!
 

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Now that you have moved that far back, is it better to move a smidge forward.

Or are you going to have to cut the driveline?

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm not sure yet, unfortunately. Maybe once I get everything in its right place and situated I'll be okay, but it's not seeming likely. My driveshaft is aluminum too, so it won't be cheap to have it cut down. Ugh.
 
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